Random questions to which you seek an answer
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@Nik I'm eager to see the results if you try waxing the N1. I have some wax/oilskin from Schnee's and I tried waxing a cotton work shirt I have and it took way more wax than i thought it would to get it waxed properly (I never ended up getting it remotely water resistant).
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I'll document if I do it. I'm thinking a heat gun is a necessary tool for the job, seems like a hair dryer won't do it alone.
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@Giles said in IHM-03 - Whipcord N1 Deck Jacket (Black & Olive):
Yes
@Aetas said in IHM-03 - Whipcord N1 Deck Jacket (Black & Olive):
That reminds me of the deers appearing in this video, during waxing a R. Freedom N1-H
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I would prefer Fjäll Raven Wax. It´s "lighter" and not as sticky then Babour wax. It´s a piece of beeswax, normally used for a cotton/polyester Mix.SPRAY:
Granger's XT Waterproofer or Granger's Fabsil Gold (with silicone) works well on cotton.Best for me: Nikwax Cotton Proof
Not wash it in, spray it on the wet Deck Jacket and let it dry.
Still breathable, not to see and not to smell. -
I think we need to have a deeper conversation about this. I received the jacket today and without a doubt I can say that this is not your average paraffin oil / wax coating like in all the examples we have seen so far. Doing it the way we would treat Barbour, Ship john wills, or similar will irreversibly change the jacket look and feel.
Can someone at IH reach out to Japan and ask about the coating origin and how to get it (I suggest having it in IH store).
I want to treat this jacket seriously as it deserves for all the money I paid.
@Alex could You please cast some light on this? -
@Nik is asking if anyone has any experience doing it in general to a non-oiled version he already owns, @Karol.
The coating used is detailed in the descriptions of the products, and when we asked about it before we were told that the oil a) did not need to be reapplied and b) was not available for purchase. I can ask again next time I see Haraki in a couple of weeks, but would anticipate a similar answer
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Yeah, how it was explained is that the efficacy of the oil wanes over time, but you can make it regain it by ironing carefully. That is how we have described them in the products that have had this coating to date and have had no feedback to contradict that. I'll bring it up when I see Haraki, as I said, but I am not expecting a different answer from him
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@Aetas that video is quite mesmerising!
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Good evening.
Have seen this beautiful shirt just a few times and most recently on @theo_phanis_007’s Instagram. He’s probably a member here so feel free to tag.
I have no idea what this shirt is called and therefore have no starting point to go from when trying to track down a Large for myself!Any info on the shirt would be greatly appreciated as am going to be looking to purchase if I can find!!
Many thanks
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Haven’t seen @Kasi here for a while
Hey Mo , hope you’re ok mate ! -
Am
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Does anyone have experience cycling in XHS?
I’m likely gonna snag my first 25oz’ers when the 777-XHSib restock - hooray! I get around by pedal power, and the 17oz duck is the heaviest fabric I have experience riding in. I’m not expecting to ride comfortably (safely?) when fresh out of the bag, but more curious how comfortable I can expect to be after I’ve broken them in a bit. I imagine I’ll grab them regardless, just hoping I can rock and roll with them….
Many thanks, Jarred.
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If you want to really jumpstart the break in process, spray the back of the knees and thighs (and really anywhere creases would form) with some water before riding.
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@Sir_Cuffs-a-Lot Watch how thick your cuffs are (if you cuff them, hemmed you might be OK). The inseam of the jeans on your right leg is gonna hit those gears as you pedal. The XHS is a beefy SOB, but steel always beats cotton eventually. I'd hike the jeans up your shin or use those clippy things around your shins to keep the cuff well away from the gear.
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@Matt black on my commuter, but now you got me thinking it might be rad to switch it out to a spare white one….
