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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • ROmanR
      ROman
      Haraki san Prodigy
      Joined:

      To me RAW = loomstate. That is probably why 85% of the jeans I have purchased off of this site are the UHR. And are my favorites.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ChrisC
        Chris
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        Yep, as said above, raw=loomstate for me.  However, I think it's mostly BS marketing, as also said above.  I don't particularly care what processing has or hasn't been done.  Just give me accurate measurements and tell me what's been done.  I can figure it out from there all by myself.  I buy jeans based on whether I think the denim is interesting, and if I think they'll (eventually) fit.

        Sometimes I get the second part of that wrong, like I did with both pairs of Studio d'Artisan jeans I've owned…

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • ChrisC
          Chris
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          @madmonday:

          the comments for the article are awesome

          This one just makes my head hurt:
          "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

          Huh?

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            Raw is synonymous with loomstate.  Loomstate means exactly what comes off the loom, with zero post weave processing (inc washing or soaking).

            And also contrary to what some people in the industry think, there are different "strengths" of sanforisation.  Not all sanforisation is the same…..

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              @madmonday:

              you use a lot of words neph, what you mean about 21oz denim?

              It was a pre bedtime post, and I have a rule, “Why use one word when you can use 259?”

              It’s edited for clarity now but my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent, unique etc and the 21oz is a good example of that. It was tonnes of character despite it’s smooth even face, heavy sanforisation and fade retardant treatment. Hell, the SB denim isn’t even selvedge and doesn’t fade and is still more interesting than some Cone Mills denim I’ve owned.

              «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
              We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

              • Dame Vera Lynn
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • neph93N
                neph93
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                @Chris:

                This one just makes my head hurt:
                "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

                Huh?

                That was one of the comments that caused me to use "language unbefitting of a mod" when I said there was some horseshit in the comments. I fully understand that it offends your lawyerly sensibilities.

                «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                • Dame Vera Lynn
                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • UnTuckedU
                  UnTucked
                  Joined:

                  This is the part of our "hobby" that I stay away from, lol!

                  In search of:
                  IHV-04, med.
                  IHSH-185, large
                  IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • DionD
                    Dion
                    Joined:

                    I think soaking raw denim is part of the fun/experience and it's great to see how a pair evolves after it has touched water and accommodates your body. I never had any issues with loomstate denim at all and if a pair fits prior to washing it will do so after it's been shrunk.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      I'm talking to Haraki about making a new raw (that is not washed, not sanforised, not anti skewed, not singed, not fucked around with in any way) denim….Watch this space.....

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • rocketR
                        rocket
                        Joined:

                        rawr…

                        rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

                        It's all humbug, like everywhere
                        R.I.P. Geo

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • DionD
                          Dion
                          Joined:

                          Super stoked and super excited!

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • UnTuckedU
                            UnTucked
                            Joined:

                            What are you considering for pre/post soak weights?

                            In search of:
                            IHV-04, med.
                            IHSH-185, large
                            IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • BroarkB
                                Broark
                                Joined:

                                New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Matty123M
                                  Matty123
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
                                  Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

                                  Maybe so. Maybe not

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    @Matty123:

                                    Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                    Me

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • Matty123M
                                      Matty123
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      @Giles:

                                      @Matty123:

                                      Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                      Me

                                      Is there an industry standard?

                                      Maybe so. Maybe not

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Megatron1505M
                                        Megatron1505
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        @Giles:

                                        @Matty123:

                                        Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                        Me

                                        Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                                        Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • Matty123M
                                          Matty123
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          Joined:

                                          There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                                          Maybe so. Maybe not

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • DionD
                                            Dion
                                            Joined:

                                            @Giles:

                                            I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                                            I was hoping for something in the range of 20+ oz to start with but it will be much more difficult to keep it unsanforized and stable, I guess.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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