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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • manufc10M
      manufc10
      Iron Heart Deity
      Joined:

      @spitfiredealer:

      For me raw is loomstate.

      I am on the flip side of Monday, I love the guesswork and kinda get a buzz from the unknown. My first pair of loomstate jeans were a pair of samurai’s that I ordered from 2nd. I had to use google translate as they didn’t speak English or very little at the time. Was the most fun I had ordering jeans and managed to get the sizing right too.

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

      +1

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ROmanR
        ROman
        Haraki san Prodigy
        Joined:

        To me RAW = loomstate. That is probably why 85% of the jeans I have purchased off of this site are the UHR. And are my favorites.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • ChrisC
          Chris
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          Yep, as said above, raw=loomstate for me.  However, I think it's mostly BS marketing, as also said above.  I don't particularly care what processing has or hasn't been done.  Just give me accurate measurements and tell me what's been done.  I can figure it out from there all by myself.  I buy jeans based on whether I think the denim is interesting, and if I think they'll (eventually) fit.

          Sometimes I get the second part of that wrong, like I did with both pairs of Studio d'Artisan jeans I've owned…

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • ChrisC
            Chris
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            @madmonday:

            the comments for the article are awesome

            This one just makes my head hurt:
            "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

            Huh?

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GilesG
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              Raw is synonymous with loomstate.  Loomstate means exactly what comes off the loom, with zero post weave processing (inc washing or soaking).

              And also contrary to what some people in the industry think, there are different "strengths" of sanforisation.  Not all sanforisation is the same…..

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • neph93N
                neph93
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                @madmonday:

                you use a lot of words neph, what you mean about 21oz denim?

                It was a pre bedtime post, and I have a rule, “Why use one word when you can use 259?”

                It’s edited for clarity now but my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent, unique etc and the 21oz is a good example of that. It was tonnes of character despite it’s smooth even face, heavy sanforisation and fade retardant treatment. Hell, the SB denim isn’t even selvedge and doesn’t fade and is still more interesting than some Cone Mills denim I’ve owned.

                “Some of those that work forces
                Are the same that burn crosses”

                • Virginia Woolf
                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • neph93N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  @Chris:

                  This one just makes my head hurt:
                  "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

                  Huh?

                  That was one of the comments that caused me to use "language unbefitting of a mod" when I said there was some horseshit in the comments. I fully understand that it offends your lawyerly sensibilities.

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • UnTuckedU
                    UnTucked
                    Joined:

                    This is the part of our "hobby" that I stay away from, lol!

                    In search of:
                    IHV-04, med.
                    IHSH-185, large
                    IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • DionD
                      Dion
                      Joined:

                      I think soaking raw denim is part of the fun/experience and it's great to see how a pair evolves after it has touched water and accommodates your body. I never had any issues with loomstate denim at all and if a pair fits prior to washing it will do so after it's been shrunk.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • GilesG
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined:

                        I'm talking to Haraki about making a new raw (that is not washed, not sanforised, not anti skewed, not singed, not fucked around with in any way) denim….Watch this space.....

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • rocketR
                          rocket
                          Joined:

                          rawr…

                          rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

                          It's all humbug, like everywhere
                          R.I.P. Geo

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • DionD
                            Dion
                            Joined:

                            Super stoked and super excited!

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • UnTuckedU
                              UnTucked
                              Joined:

                              What are you considering for pre/post soak weights?

                              In search of:
                              IHV-04, med.
                              IHSH-185, large
                              IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • BroarkB
                                  Broark
                                  Joined:

                                  New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Matty123M
                                    Matty123
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
                                    Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

                                    Maybe so. Maybe not

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      @Matty123:

                                      Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                      Me

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Matty123M
                                        Matty123
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        @Giles:

                                        @Matty123:

                                        Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                        Me

                                        Is there an industry standard?

                                        Maybe so. Maybe not

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • Megatron1505M
                                          Megatron1505
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          @Giles:

                                          @Matty123:

                                          Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                          Me

                                          Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                                          Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Matty123M
                                            Matty123
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                                            Maybe so. Maybe not

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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