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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • ChrisC
      Chris
      Raw and Unwashed
      Joined:

      Yep, as said above, raw=loomstate for me.  However, I think it's mostly BS marketing, as also said above.  I don't particularly care what processing has or hasn't been done.  Just give me accurate measurements and tell me what's been done.  I can figure it out from there all by myself.  I buy jeans based on whether I think the denim is interesting, and if I think they'll (eventually) fit.

      Sometimes I get the second part of that wrong, like I did with both pairs of Studio d'Artisan jeans I've owned…

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ChrisC
        Chris
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        @madmonday:

        the comments for the article are awesome

        This one just makes my head hurt:
        "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

        Huh?

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          Raw is synonymous with loomstate.  Loomstate means exactly what comes off the loom, with zero post weave processing (inc washing or soaking).

          And also contrary to what some people in the industry think, there are different "strengths" of sanforisation.  Not all sanforisation is the same…..

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • neph93N
            neph93
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            @madmonday:

            you use a lot of words neph, what you mean about 21oz denim?

            It was a pre bedtime post, and I have a rule, “Why use one word when you can use 259?”

            It’s edited for clarity now but my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent, unique etc and the 21oz is a good example of that. It was tonnes of character despite it’s smooth even face, heavy sanforisation and fade retardant treatment. Hell, the SB denim isn’t even selvedge and doesn’t fade and is still more interesting than some Cone Mills denim I’ve owned.

            “Some of those that work forces
            Are the same that burn crosses”

            • Virginia Woolf
            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • neph93N
              neph93
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              @Chris:

              This one just makes my head hurt:
              "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

              Huh?

              That was one of the comments that caused me to use "language unbefitting of a mod" when I said there was some horseshit in the comments. I fully understand that it offends your lawyerly sensibilities.

              “Some of those that work forces
              Are the same that burn crosses”

              • Virginia Woolf
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • UnTuckedU
                UnTucked
                Joined:

                This is the part of our "hobby" that I stay away from, lol!

                In search of:
                IHV-04, med.
                IHSH-185, large
                IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • DionD
                  Dion
                  Joined:

                  I think soaking raw denim is part of the fun/experience and it's great to see how a pair evolves after it has touched water and accommodates your body. I never had any issues with loomstate denim at all and if a pair fits prior to washing it will do so after it's been shrunk.

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    I'm talking to Haraki about making a new raw (that is not washed, not sanforised, not anti skewed, not singed, not fucked around with in any way) denim….Watch this space.....

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • rocketR
                      rocket
                      Joined:

                      rawr…

                      rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

                      It's all humbug, like everywhere
                      R.I.P. Geo

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • DionD
                        Dion
                        Joined:

                        Super stoked and super excited!

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • UnTuckedU
                          UnTucked
                          Joined:

                          What are you considering for pre/post soak weights?

                          In search of:
                          IHV-04, med.
                          IHSH-185, large
                          IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • GilesG
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined:

                            I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • BroarkB
                              Broark
                              Joined:

                              New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Matty123M
                                Matty123
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
                                Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

                                Maybe so. Maybe not

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  @Matty123:

                                  Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                  Me

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Matty123M
                                    Matty123
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    @Giles:

                                    @Matty123:

                                    Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                    Me

                                    Is there an industry standard?

                                    Maybe so. Maybe not

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • Megatron1505M
                                      Megatron1505
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      @Giles:

                                      @Matty123:

                                      Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                      Me

                                      Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                                      Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Matty123M
                                        Matty123
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                                        Maybe so. Maybe not

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • DionD
                                          Dion
                                          Joined:

                                          @Giles:

                                          I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                                          I was hoping for something in the range of 20+ oz to start with but it will be much more difficult to keep it unsanforized and stable, I guess.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • neph93N
                                            neph93
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            @Matty123:

                                            Is there an industry standard?

                                            No. Which is partially why I started this thread to see if there was a consensus on this forum. It seems there is. This makes me happy.

                                            “Some of those that work forces
                                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                                            • Virginia Woolf
                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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