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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      Raw is synonymous with loomstate.  Loomstate means exactly what comes off the loom, with zero post weave processing (inc washing or soaking).

      And also contrary to what some people in the industry think, there are different "strengths" of sanforisation.  Not all sanforisation is the same…..

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • neph93N
        neph93
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        @madmonday:

        you use a lot of words neph, what you mean about 21oz denim?

        It was a pre bedtime post, and I have a rule, “Why use one word when you can use 259?”

        It’s edited for clarity now but my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent, unique etc and the 21oz is a good example of that. It was tonnes of character despite it’s smooth even face, heavy sanforisation and fade retardant treatment. Hell, the SB denim isn’t even selvedge and doesn’t fade and is still more interesting than some Cone Mills denim I’ve owned.

        “Some of those that work forces
        Are the same that burn crosses”

        • Virginia Woolf
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • neph93N
          neph93
          見習いボス
          Joined:

          @Chris:

          This one just makes my head hurt:
          "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

          Huh?

          That was one of the comments that caused me to use "language unbefitting of a mod" when I said there was some horseshit in the comments. I fully understand that it offends your lawyerly sensibilities.

          “Some of those that work forces
          Are the same that burn crosses”

          • Virginia Woolf
          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • UnTuckedU
            UnTucked
            Joined:

            This is the part of our "hobby" that I stay away from, lol!

            In search of:
            IHV-04, med.
            IHSH-185, large
            IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • DionD
              Dion
              Joined:

              I think soaking raw denim is part of the fun/experience and it's great to see how a pair evolves after it has touched water and accommodates your body. I never had any issues with loomstate denim at all and if a pair fits prior to washing it will do so after it's been shrunk.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                I'm talking to Haraki about making a new raw (that is not washed, not sanforised, not anti skewed, not singed, not fucked around with in any way) denim….Watch this space.....

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • rocketR
                  rocket
                  Joined:

                  rawr…

                  rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

                  It's all humbug, like everywhere
                  R.I.P. Geo

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • DionD
                    Dion
                    Joined:

                    Super stoked and super excited!

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • UnTuckedU
                      UnTucked
                      Joined:

                      What are you considering for pre/post soak weights?

                      In search of:
                      IHV-04, med.
                      IHSH-185, large
                      IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • GilesG
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined:

                        I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • BroarkB
                          Broark
                          Joined:

                          New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • Matty123M
                            Matty123
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
                            Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

                            Maybe so. Maybe not

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              @Matty123:

                              Who is to Say they are wrong?

                              Me

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Matty123M
                                Matty123
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                @Giles:

                                @Matty123:

                                Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                Me

                                Is there an industry standard?

                                Maybe so. Maybe not

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Megatron1505M
                                  Megatron1505
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  @Giles:

                                  @Matty123:

                                  Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                  Me

                                  Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                                  Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Matty123M
                                    Matty123
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                                    Maybe so. Maybe not

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • DionD
                                      Dion
                                      Joined:

                                      @Giles:

                                      I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                                      I was hoping for something in the range of 20+ oz to start with but it will be much more difficult to keep it unsanforized and stable, I guess.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • neph93N
                                        neph93
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        @Matty123:

                                        Is there an industry standard?

                                        No. Which is partially why I started this thread to see if there was a consensus on this forum. It seems there is. This makes me happy.

                                        “Some of those that work forces
                                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                                        • Virginia Woolf
                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • madmondayM
                                          madmonday
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          Joined:

                                          @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                                          to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                                          look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                                          they all eggs but you know

                                          off topic but I always am

                                          again great topic @neph93  as there is a super easy and clear answer to the initial question but it can branch off into so many other things based on each persons experience

                                          head high, middle finger higher

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • UnTuckedU
                                            UnTucked
                                            Joined:

                                            This is why I wear workpants… no confusion, lol

                                            In search of:
                                            IHV-04, med.
                                            IHSH-185, large
                                            IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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