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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      I'm talking to Haraki about making a new raw (that is not washed, not sanforised, not anti skewed, not singed, not fucked around with in any way) denim….Watch this space.....

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • rocketR
        rocket
        Joined:

        rawr…

        rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

        It's all humbug, like everywhere
        R.I.P. Geo

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • DionD
          Dion
          Joined:

          Super stoked and super excited!

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • UnTuckedU
            UnTucked
            Joined:

            What are you considering for pre/post soak weights?

            In search of:
            IHV-04, med.
            IHSH-185, large
            IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GilesG
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • BroarkB
                Broark
                Joined:

                New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Matty123M
                  Matty123
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
                  Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

                  Maybe so. Maybe not

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    @Matty123:

                    Who is to Say they are wrong?

                    Me

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • Matty123M
                      Matty123
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      @Giles:

                      @Matty123:

                      Who is to Say they are wrong?

                      Me

                      Is there an industry standard?

                      Maybe so. Maybe not

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • Megatron1505M
                        Megatron1505
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        @Giles:

                        @Matty123:

                        Who is to Say they are wrong?

                        Me

                        Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                        Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • Matty123M
                          Matty123
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                          Maybe so. Maybe not

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • DionD
                            Dion
                            Joined:

                            @Giles:

                            I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                            I was hoping for something in the range of 20+ oz to start with but it will be much more difficult to keep it unsanforized and stable, I guess.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • neph93N
                              neph93
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              @Matty123:

                              Is there an industry standard?

                              No. Which is partially why I started this thread to see if there was a consensus on this forum. It seems there is. This makes me happy.

                              “Some of those that work forces
                              Are the same that burn crosses”

                              • Virginia Woolf
                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • madmondayM
                                madmonday
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                                to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                                look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                                they all eggs but you know

                                off topic but I always am

                                again great topic @neph93  as there is a super easy and clear answer to the initial question but it can branch off into so many other things based on each persons experience

                                head high, middle finger higher

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • UnTuckedU
                                  UnTucked
                                  Joined:

                                  This is why I wear workpants… no confusion, lol

                                  In search of:
                                  IHV-04, med.
                                  IHSH-185, large
                                  IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • madmondayM
                                    madmonday
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    @neph93:

                                    my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent

                                    good point but not easy to put into a quick sound bite to get consumers to spend their money by the old guard selling fast fashion to consumers and are just trying to turn a profit

                                    as consumers become more educated and the rise of conscious consumerism with brands like Patagonia i think it will change, slowly, but change none the less

                                    what is also funny is that every one has a voice, which is a good thing, but you get a lot of misinformed people making arguments that do not hold water.

                                    you would not argue about the color or fruit orange, since it is a universal fact it should be the same with the term  raw denim, but you know

                                    I mentioned oranges and eggs, I am hungry time to get some grub

                                    head high, middle finger higher

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • Matty123M
                                      Matty123
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      @madmonday:

                                      @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                                      to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                                      look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                                      they all eggs but you know

                                      Yeah that’s true. Thanks Monday

                                      But for me my egg? First I break the egg on to a fine mesh screen and get all the watery clear whites gone.
                                      Then 185F water for 4 minutes. Gently stiring so it doesn’t stick to the bottom. Take that shit out and bam! Perfect.  Poached 185f egg

                                      Maybe so. Maybe not

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • gaseousclayG
                                        gaseousclay
                                        Joined:

                                        @manufc10:

                                        Most people don't like the unpredictable nature of loomstate, therefore underrated IMO.

                                        I'm in the camp of people who dislike the unpredictable nature of loomstate. I like the guesswork being taken out of having to figure out sizing/shrinkage, especially if you're dropping big $.

                                        WTB:
                                        IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                                        IHSH-19

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • UnTuckedU
                                          UnTucked
                                          Joined:

                                          Ditto…
                                          Never owned a pair, and likely never will.....

                                          Closest I've gotten is my Oni "Secret denim" (unsanforized)...

                                          Shockingly enough, "the guy who throws all clothes in the washer and dryer all willy nilly" is extremely apprehensive about washing these jeans using ANY methods. They will likely stay truly raw (And eventually, ripe) forever.

                                          In search of:
                                          IHV-04, med.
                                          IHSH-185, large
                                          IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Matty123M
                                            Matty123
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            @UnTucked:

                                            Ditto…
                                            Never owned a pair, and likely never will.....

                                            Closest I've gotten is my Oni "Secret denim" (unsanforized)...

                                            Shockingly enough, "the guy who throws all clothes in the washer and dryer all willy nilly" is extremely apprehensive about washing these jeans using ANY methods. They will likely stay truly raw (And eventually, ripe) forever.

                                            Et tu Bruté?

                                            Maybe so. Maybe not

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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