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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • neph93N
      neph93
      見習いボス
      Joined:

      @madmonday:

      you use a lot of words neph, what you mean about 21oz denim?

      It was a pre bedtime post, and I have a rule, “Why use one word when you can use 259?”

      It’s edited for clarity now but my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent, unique etc and the 21oz is a good example of that. It was tonnes of character despite it’s smooth even face, heavy sanforisation and fade retardant treatment. Hell, the SB denim isn’t even selvedge and doesn’t fade and is still more interesting than some Cone Mills denim I’ve owned.

      “Some of those that work forces
      Are the same that burn crosses”

      • Virginia Woolf
      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • neph93N
        neph93
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        @Chris:

        This one just makes my head hurt:
        "The Sanforization process is designed to remove potential shrinkage from the fabric by moistening it with water or steam – that's a far cry from stone washing jeans. It's also functionally no different than unsanforized denim, as an educated buyer knows to soak an unsanforized pair prior to the first wear. So unsanforized and sanforized are essentially identical by the time the buyer puts on the jeans for the first time."

        Huh?

        That was one of the comments that caused me to use "language unbefitting of a mod" when I said there was some horseshit in the comments. I fully understand that it offends your lawyerly sensibilities.

        “Some of those that work forces
        Are the same that burn crosses”

        • Virginia Woolf
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • UnTuckedU
          UnTucked
          Joined:

          This is the part of our "hobby" that I stay away from, lol!

          In search of:
          IHV-04, med.
          IHSH-185, large
          IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • DionD
            Dion
            Joined:

            I think soaking raw denim is part of the fun/experience and it's great to see how a pair evolves after it has touched water and accommodates your body. I never had any issues with loomstate denim at all and if a pair fits prior to washing it will do so after it's been shrunk.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GilesG
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              I'm talking to Haraki about making a new raw (that is not washed, not sanforised, not anti skewed, not singed, not fucked around with in any way) denim….Watch this space.....

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • rocketR
                rocket
                Joined:

                rawr…

                rocketrocksrox 🤙🏼🤙🏾

                It's all humbug, like everywhere
                R.I.P. Geo

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • DionD
                  Dion
                  Joined:

                  Super stoked and super excited!

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • UnTuckedU
                    UnTucked
                    Joined:

                    What are you considering for pre/post soak weights?

                    In search of:
                    IHV-04, med.
                    IHSH-185, large
                    IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • BroarkB
                        Broark
                        Joined:

                        New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • Matty123M
                          Matty123
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
                          Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

                          Maybe so. Maybe not

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • GilesG
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined:

                            @Matty123:

                            Who is to Say they are wrong?

                            Me

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • Matty123M
                              Matty123
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              @Giles:

                              @Matty123:

                              Who is to Say they are wrong?

                              Me

                              Is there an industry standard?

                              Maybe so. Maybe not

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Megatron1505M
                                Megatron1505
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                @Giles:

                                @Matty123:

                                Who is to Say they are wrong?

                                Me

                                Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                                Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Matty123M
                                  Matty123
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                                  Maybe so. Maybe not

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • DionD
                                    Dion
                                    Joined:

                                    @Giles:

                                    I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                                    I was hoping for something in the range of 20+ oz to start with but it will be much more difficult to keep it unsanforized and stable, I guess.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • neph93N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      @Matty123:

                                      Is there an industry standard?

                                      No. Which is partially why I started this thread to see if there was a consensus on this forum. It seems there is. This makes me happy.

                                      “Some of those that work forces
                                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                                      • Virginia Woolf
                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • madmondayM
                                        madmonday
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                                        to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                                        look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                                        they all eggs but you know

                                        off topic but I always am

                                        again great topic @neph93  as there is a super easy and clear answer to the initial question but it can branch off into so many other things based on each persons experience

                                        head high, middle finger higher

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • UnTuckedU
                                          UnTucked
                                          Joined:

                                          This is why I wear workpants… no confusion, lol

                                          In search of:
                                          IHV-04, med.
                                          IHSH-185, large
                                          IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • madmondayM
                                            madmonday
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            @neph93:

                                            my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent

                                            good point but not easy to put into a quick sound bite to get consumers to spend their money by the old guard selling fast fashion to consumers and are just trying to turn a profit

                                            as consumers become more educated and the rise of conscious consumerism with brands like Patagonia i think it will change, slowly, but change none the less

                                            what is also funny is that every one has a voice, which is a good thing, but you get a lot of misinformed people making arguments that do not hold water.

                                            you would not argue about the color or fruit orange, since it is a universal fact it should be the same with the term  raw denim, but you know

                                            I mentioned oranges and eggs, I am hungry time to get some grub

                                            head high, middle finger higher

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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