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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • BroarkB
        Broark
        Joined:

        New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • Matty123M
          Matty123
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
          Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

          Maybe so. Maybe not

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            @Matty123:

            Who is to Say they are wrong?

            Me

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Matty123M
              Matty123
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              @Giles:

              @Matty123:

              Who is to Say they are wrong?

              Me

              Is there an industry standard?

              Maybe so. Maybe not

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Megatron1505M
                Megatron1505
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                @Giles:

                @Matty123:

                Who is to Say they are wrong?

                Me

                Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Matty123M
                  Matty123
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                  Maybe so. Maybe not

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • DionD
                    Dion
                    Joined:

                    @Giles:

                    I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                    I was hoping for something in the range of 20+ oz to start with but it will be much more difficult to keep it unsanforized and stable, I guess.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • neph93N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined:

                      @Matty123:

                      Is there an industry standard?

                      No. Which is partially why I started this thread to see if there was a consensus on this forum. It seems there is. This makes me happy.

                      “Some of those that work forces
                      Are the same that burn crosses”

                      • Virginia Woolf
                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • madmondayM
                        madmonday
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                        to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                        look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                        they all eggs but you know

                        off topic but I always am

                        again great topic @neph93  as there is a super easy and clear answer to the initial question but it can branch off into so many other things based on each persons experience

                        head high, middle finger higher

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • UnTuckedU
                          UnTucked
                          Joined:

                          This is why I wear workpants… no confusion, lol

                          In search of:
                          IHV-04, med.
                          IHSH-185, large
                          IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • madmondayM
                            madmonday
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            @neph93:

                            my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent

                            good point but not easy to put into a quick sound bite to get consumers to spend their money by the old guard selling fast fashion to consumers and are just trying to turn a profit

                            as consumers become more educated and the rise of conscious consumerism with brands like Patagonia i think it will change, slowly, but change none the less

                            what is also funny is that every one has a voice, which is a good thing, but you get a lot of misinformed people making arguments that do not hold water.

                            you would not argue about the color or fruit orange, since it is a universal fact it should be the same with the term  raw denim, but you know

                            I mentioned oranges and eggs, I am hungry time to get some grub

                            head high, middle finger higher

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • Matty123M
                              Matty123
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              @madmonday:

                              @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                              to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                              look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                              they all eggs but you know

                              Yeah that’s true. Thanks Monday

                              But for me my egg? First I break the egg on to a fine mesh screen and get all the watery clear whites gone.
                              Then 185F water for 4 minutes. Gently stiring so it doesn’t stick to the bottom. Take that shit out and bam! Perfect.  Poached 185f egg

                              Maybe so. Maybe not

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • gaseousclayG
                                gaseousclay
                                Joined:

                                @manufc10:

                                Most people don't like the unpredictable nature of loomstate, therefore underrated IMO.

                                I'm in the camp of people who dislike the unpredictable nature of loomstate. I like the guesswork being taken out of having to figure out sizing/shrinkage, especially if you're dropping big $.

                                WTB:
                                IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                                IHSH-19

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • UnTuckedU
                                  UnTucked
                                  Joined:

                                  Ditto…
                                  Never owned a pair, and likely never will.....

                                  Closest I've gotten is my Oni "Secret denim" (unsanforized)...

                                  Shockingly enough, "the guy who throws all clothes in the washer and dryer all willy nilly" is extremely apprehensive about washing these jeans using ANY methods. They will likely stay truly raw (And eventually, ripe) forever.

                                  In search of:
                                  IHV-04, med.
                                  IHSH-185, large
                                  IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Matty123M
                                    Matty123
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    @UnTucked:

                                    Ditto…
                                    Never owned a pair, and likely never will.....

                                    Closest I've gotten is my Oni "Secret denim" (unsanforized)...

                                    Shockingly enough, "the guy who throws all clothes in the washer and dryer all willy nilly" is extremely apprehensive about washing these jeans using ANY methods. They will likely stay truly raw (And eventually, ripe) forever.

                                    Et tu Bruté?

                                    Maybe so. Maybe not

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • UnTuckedU
                                      UnTucked
                                      Joined:

                                      I have a thing for slubby, irregular denim….. Sorry! lol

                                      In search of:
                                      IHV-04, med.
                                      IHSH-185, large
                                      IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • neph93N
                                        neph93
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        @gaseousclay:

                                        I'm in the camp of people who dislike the unpredictable nature of loomstate.

                                        How do you feel about the terminology? Raw=loomstate?

                                        “Some of those that work forces
                                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                                        • Virginia Woolf
                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • manufc10M
                                          manufc10
                                          Iron Heart Deity
                                          Joined:

                                          @neph93:

                                          @madmonday:

                                          you use a lot of words neph, what you mean about 21oz denim?

                                          It was a pre bedtime post, and I have a rule, “Why use one word when you can use 259?”

                                          It’s edited for clarity now but my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent, unique etc and the 21oz is a good example of that. It was tonnes of character despite it’s smooth even face, heavy sanforisation and fade retardant treatment. Hell, the SB denim isn’t even selvedge and doesn’t fade and is still more interesting than some Cone Mills denim I’ve owned.

                                          I agree 100%.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Matty123M
                                            Matty123
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            @UnTucked:

                                            I have a thing for slubby, irregular denim….. Sorry! lol

                                            U find loomstate to be less slubby and irregular? Don’t be sorry.

                                            Maybe so. Maybe not

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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