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Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

Random questions to which you seek an answer

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  • G
    goosehd
    Mod Squad
    @Karol
    Joined: 8 Apr 2016

    @Karol If it’s something you are truly interested in, find the information yourself and become the subject matter expert.

    Discussions concerning denim are one thing, discovering the information on your own, doing it, and people coming to you is another.

    Look at what @swiss-jeansfreak has done with his love of denim.

    "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

    last edited by 20 Aug 2024, 17:14 K 1 Reply Last reply 20 Aug 2024, 17:18 Reply Quote 0
    • K
      Karol
      啓蒙家
      @goosehd
      Joined: 14 Nov 2022

      @goosehd Yes, that is kind of what I'm trying to say in the above post and many more on this forum, but what's the point that you are trying to make? Not sure if I follow.

      Favorite:
      IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
      IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
      IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
      IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

      last edited by 20 Aug 2024, 17:18 G 1 Reply Last reply 20 Aug 2024, 17:23 Reply Quote 0
      • G
        goosehd
        Mod Squad
        @Karol
        Joined: 8 Apr 2016

        @Karol You have listed people who you look up to re: boots, leather, etc. who have podcasts concerning those topics.

        If the weights, densities, construction techniques, waterproofing material interests you. Test them, document it, make blogs, podcasts, etc. on those findings.

        There is nothing stopping you from doing the same as Rose Anvil or any of the others mentioned.

        What I am saying is become the subject matter expert. Do what they have done and you will find more enjoyment in those quests than someone giving you answers that may not satiate that curiosity.

        "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

        last edited by 20 Aug 2024, 17:23 K 1 Reply Last reply 20 Aug 2024, 17:35 Reply Quote 1
        • G
          goosehd
          Mod Squad
          Joined: 8 Apr 2016

          There is the old proverb, give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he’ll never go hungry. The answers you seek may not be here on this forum…but by you taking the initiative to seek out those answers, you could become the be all, end all, on those questions you ask.

          Hope this makes sense.

          "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

          last edited by 20 Aug 2024, 17:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
          • K
            Karol
            啓蒙家
            @goosehd
            Joined: 14 Nov 2022

            @goosehd OK, I'm back there with You. I must have been unclear on how I wrote about it earlier.

            This is exactly what I'm doing, but as I mentioned earlier I don't think that at this moment my knowledge of the subject matter is sufficient, and the level to what I aspire is pretty high.
            Look I'm the kind of dude that has red few times the book that @Giles has recommended about the fabric production process - Weaving: Conversion of yarn to fabric (I think I even posted somewhere on the forum the link to a free .pdf), and then I searched for more source material.
            I think that creating such content needs to add the value to the conversation and I'm still way to ignorant about all of this. But here on the forum I see so many people that have much more knowledge and direct experience with the questions that I find myself asking.
            That is why I'm asking here. But I'm searching everywhere.

            Favorite:
            IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
            IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
            IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
            IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

            last edited by 20 Aug 2024, 17:35 T 1 Reply Last reply 20 Aug 2024, 17:38 Reply Quote 1
            • T
              Tago Mago
              Mod Squad
              @Karol
              Joined: 16 Jan 2021

              @Karol just my two cents: a sound foundation in theoretical knowledge is a requirement, but there will come a point when you can’t further that knowledge without getting hands-on, practical experience.

              You’re a diver and a photographer, correct? Reading books about these two activities is one thing, putting them together in real life is probably where you learned the most

              last edited by Tago Mago 20 Aug 2024, 17:38 G K 2 Replies Last reply 20 Aug 2024, 17:43 Reply Quote 2
              • G
                goosehd
                Mod Squad
                @Tago Mago
                Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                @Tago-Mago Exactly the point I’m making. We are not knowledgeable enough to answer some of your questions (Karol). @pechelman gave you a great tool in order to measure density re: fabrics. Take the jeans that you have and measure them yourself. Seek out other jeans, manufacturers, and start your own lists of information and data.

                Who know’s…maybe you’ll end up writing a book and everyone will come to you for information.

                "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                last edited by goosehd 20 Aug 2024, 17:43 K 1 Reply Last reply 20 Aug 2024, 17:55 Reply Quote 1
                • K
                  Karol
                  啓蒙家
                  @Tago Mago
                  Joined: 14 Nov 2022

                  @Tago-Mago I wish I had the money to just buy it all and have an educated opinion, but the mortgage... And I don't think that I want to go that far when it comes to fabric production 😃 I'm quite sure that starting a denim mill is not something I have envisioned for myself.
                  And here on the forum we have folks that over the years tried most of the IH stuff. What I learned from the forum is way better then the videos that people put on YouTube regarding Iron Heart.

                  Favorite:
                  IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                  IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                  IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                  IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                  last edited by 20 Aug 2024, 17:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                  • K
                    Karol
                    啓蒙家
                    @goosehd
                    Joined: 14 Nov 2022

                    @goosehd @Tago-Mago I get what you are saying guys. And you are right, but that hands-on experience is money dependent and I just want to buy my next pair of jeans 🤣 and be happy with the fabric.

                    Favorite:
                    IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                    IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                    IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                    IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                    last edited by 20 Aug 2024, 17:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                    • P
                      pechelman
                      啓蒙家
                      @pechelman
                      Joined: 24 Jan 2022

                      @pechelman said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                      The easy way to measure this is to measure the thickness of the fabric.

                      @Karol since you asked the question and sent me down this rabbit hole. tagging you

                      Easy I said....
                      SO I spent a bit of time going through a bunch of jeans and fabrics attempting to measure them. It's not straight forward as one might think. Still, I did my best, and here's the method used;

                      Fabrics were doubled up in a low wear area like near the hem or on the side of a shirt.
                      Doubled fabric was used to save me some time and in attempt to get a little more resolution in the thickness.
                      A Starrett micrometer with a friction click clutch was used to take measurements
                      Multiple measurements were taken and I averaged them.
                      When multiple garments with the same fabric were available I also averaged them.
                      Thicknesses shown are those I took divided in half, so it should be somewhat representative of a single layer of fabric.

                      Things I learned or thought about during the process;
                      There's a lot of compliance in fabric. Even with a consistent measuring technique,
                      Thicknesses are relative at best.
                      Density measured in the manner is highly questionable given 19L and 14oz are right next to 16 slubby.
                      Actual fabric surface weight is unverified and may be introducing large error.

                      What would I do different?
                      I wouldnt do this again. Getting the raw fabric from a roll and measuring out precise swatches to actually weigh and measure would be "better". Even "better" might be to use a permeability meter as is used for measuring breathability in technical garments like goretex.

                      Still, here's what I came up with for giggles. At least I can say I was fairly repeatable in my measurement method with a pretty solid relationship between fabric weight and thickness.

                      143f5ae4-d123-4b9b-aff8-1a6e072af137-image.png

                      b4a9c865-30b9-4c82-b29b-d525dd6d3fa4-image.png

                      if anyone wants my excel sheet let me know and i can email/message it to you

                      last edited by pechelman 22 Aug 2024, 03:27 popvultureP Luijim78L todyT K MizmazzleM 5 Replies Last reply 22 Aug 2024, 03:36 Reply Quote 10
                      • popvultureP
                        popvulture
                        見習いボス
                        @pechelman
                        Joined: 2 Oct 2018

                        @pechelman dude this is hardcore — love it!

                        WTB
                        IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
                        Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

                        last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 03:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                        • P
                          pechelman
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined: 24 Jan 2022

                          Thanks!
                          I rushed to do all this with cooking dinner, taking care of a sick wife, doing dishes, and a hasty write up. I'm wondering a bit more about fabric weight in general now. Is it really weighed or is it an approximate value based on fabric or yarn thickness instead? That might begin to explain the good correlation between oz/sqyd and thickness measurements whereas there's a very poor relationship to relative density and what we all know to be empirically true through wear.

                          last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 03:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
                          • Luijim78L
                            Luijim78
                            啓蒙家
                            @pechelman
                            Joined: 19 Aug 2022

                            @pechelman congratulations my friend 😮👏👏👏

                            last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 05:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • todyT
                              tody
                              啓蒙家
                              @pechelman
                              Joined: 24 Feb 2021

                              @pechelman It almost looks like you need to be a... rocket scientist? to come up with that kind of chart 😎

                              last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 05:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                              • K
                                Karol
                                啓蒙家
                                @pechelman
                                Joined: 14 Nov 2022

                                @pechelman waking up to see this is the best!!!
                                You made my day. The scientific method galore! I’m starting to study the results.

                                Favorite:
                                IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                                IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                                IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                                IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                                last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 06:17 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                • GrahamG
                                  Graham
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined: 8 May 2014

                                  Bazinga.

                                  @gmac_ironheart
                                  🤘

                                  last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 08:41 J 1 Reply Last reply 22 Aug 2024, 11:26 Reply Quote 3
                                  • J
                                    Jett129
                                    見習いボス
                                    @Graham
                                    Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                                    @Graham said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                                    Bazinga.

                                    Guessing you’re a fan of the Big Bang Theory. One of my all time favorites.

                                    last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 11:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                    • S
                                      sabergirl
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined: 4 Oct 2013

                                      Wow @pechelman this is the best denim-nerd mad scientist ish I’ve seen in a while. Bravo

                                      last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 11:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
                                      • P
                                        pechelman
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined: 24 Jan 2022

                                        thanks y'all. Hopefully no one thinks this is me trying to be authoritative or whatever. The density results are kinda meaningless imo, which is why I intentionally called it "relative density" and omitted any real units, but I thought it too ridiculous not to share.

                                        I am genuinely curious about how fabric weight is determined now if one of the crew might be able to shed some light. Is the final woven fabric actually weighed in some method or is it based on some characteristic of the input yarns? Or something else?

                                        last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 15:52 todyT 1 Reply Last reply 22 Aug 2024, 17:14 Reply Quote 2
                                        • MizmazzleM
                                          Mizmazzle
                                          見習いボス
                                          @pechelman
                                          Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                                          @pechelman Freaking real deal denim science....seriously rad! Even if its not necessarily "Authoritative" some real thought and effort went into this.

                                          In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                          last edited by Mizmazzle 22 Aug 2024, 16:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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