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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Random questions to which you seek an answer

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    • KarolK
      Karol
      啓蒙家
      @goosehd
      Joined:

      @goosehd @Tago-Mago I get what you are saying guys. And you are right, but that hands-on experience is money dependent and I just want to buy my next pair of jeans 🤣 and be happy with the fabric.

      Favorite:
      IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
      IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
      IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
      IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • pechelmanP
        pechelman
        啓蒙家
        @pechelman
        Joined:

        @pechelman said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

        The easy way to measure this is to measure the thickness of the fabric.

        @Karol since you asked the question and sent me down this rabbit hole. tagging you

        Easy I said....
        SO I spent a bit of time going through a bunch of jeans and fabrics attempting to measure them. It's not straight forward as one might think. Still, I did my best, and here's the method used;

        Fabrics were doubled up in a low wear area like near the hem or on the side of a shirt.
        Doubled fabric was used to save me some time and in attempt to get a little more resolution in the thickness.
        A Starrett micrometer with a friction click clutch was used to take measurements
        Multiple measurements were taken and I averaged them.
        When multiple garments with the same fabric were available I also averaged them.
        Thicknesses shown are those I took divided in half, so it should be somewhat representative of a single layer of fabric.

        Things I learned or thought about during the process;
        There's a lot of compliance in fabric. Even with a consistent measuring technique,
        Thicknesses are relative at best.
        Density measured in the manner is highly questionable given 19L and 14oz are right next to 16 slubby.
        Actual fabric surface weight is unverified and may be introducing large error.

        What would I do different?
        I wouldnt do this again. Getting the raw fabric from a roll and measuring out precise swatches to actually weigh and measure would be "better". Even "better" might be to use a permeability meter as is used for measuring breathability in technical garments like goretex.

        Still, here's what I came up with for giggles. At least I can say I was fairly repeatable in my measurement method with a pretty solid relationship between fabric weight and thickness.

        143f5ae4-d123-4b9b-aff8-1a6e072af137-image.png

        b4a9c865-30b9-4c82-b29b-d525dd6d3fa4-image.png

        if anyone wants my excel sheet let me know and i can email/message it to you

        last edited by pechelman popvultureP Luijim78L todyT KarolK MizmazzleM 5 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 10
        • popvultureP
          popvulture
          見習いボス
          @pechelman
          Joined:

          @pechelman dude this is hardcore — love it!

          WTB
          IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
          Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
          • pechelmanP
            pechelman
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            Thanks!
            I rushed to do all this with cooking dinner, taking care of a sick wife, doing dishes, and a hasty write up. I'm wondering a bit more about fabric weight in general now. Is it really weighed or is it an approximate value based on fabric or yarn thickness instead? That might begin to explain the good correlation between oz/sqyd and thickness measurements whereas there's a very poor relationship to relative density and what we all know to be empirically true through wear.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
            • Luijim78L
              Luijim78
              啓蒙家
              @pechelman
              Joined:

              @pechelman congratulations my friend 😮👏👏👏

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • todyT
                tody
                啓蒙家
                @pechelman
                Joined:

                @pechelman It almost looks like you need to be a... rocket scientist? to come up with that kind of chart 😎

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • KarolK
                  Karol
                  啓蒙家
                  @pechelman
                  Joined:

                  @pechelman waking up to see this is the best!!!
                  You made my day. The scientific method galore! I’m starting to study the results.

                  Favorite:
                  IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
                  IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
                  IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
                  IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                  • GrahamG
                    Graham
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    Bazinga.

                    @gmac_ironheart
                    🤘

                    last edited by J 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
                    • J
                      Jett129
                      見習いボス
                      @Graham
                      Joined:

                      @Graham said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                      Bazinga.

                      Guessing you’re a fan of the Big Bang Theory. One of my all time favorites.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                      • S
                        sabergirl
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        Wow @pechelman this is the best denim-nerd mad scientist ish I’ve seen in a while. Bravo

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
                        • pechelmanP
                          pechelman
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined:

                          thanks y'all. Hopefully no one thinks this is me trying to be authoritative or whatever. The density results are kinda meaningless imo, which is why I intentionally called it "relative density" and omitted any real units, but I thought it too ridiculous not to share.

                          I am genuinely curious about how fabric weight is determined now if one of the crew might be able to shed some light. Is the final woven fabric actually weighed in some method or is it based on some characteristic of the input yarns? Or something else?

                          last edited by todyT 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                          • MizmazzleM
                            Mizmazzle
                            見習いボス
                            @pechelman
                            Joined:

                            @pechelman Freaking real deal denim science....seriously rad! Even if its not necessarily "Authoritative" some real thought and effort went into this.

                            In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                            last edited by Mizmazzle 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • todyT
                              tody
                              啓蒙家
                              @pechelman
                              Joined:

                              @pechelman The way I understand the technique is that a cutout of a specific size is made, weighed, and then it‘s calculated from there.

                              last edited by tody J 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                              • Mister_BrueM
                                Mister_Brue
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:
                                This post is deleted!
                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                • J
                                  Jett129
                                  見習いボス
                                  @tody
                                  Joined:

                                  @tody said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                                  @pechelman The way I understand the technique is that a cutout of a specific size is made, weighed, and then it‘s calculated from there.

                                  I think it’s a square yard of the fabric.

                                  last edited by todyT 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • todyT
                                    tody
                                    啓蒙家
                                    @Jett129
                                    Joined:

                                    @Jett129 This is what I found online: https://stonemountainfabric.com/what-gsm-means-and-how-to-use-it/

                                    So that type of cutter is used:
                                    6307a58c-d7b5-4ca1-9578-c4d9e7a3eaeb-image.png

                                    last edited by J 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
                                    • pechelmanP
                                      pechelman
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      From the little I know through other hobbies from audio, knives, sharpening, fishing, etc, Japan has their own highly-intentional way of doing everything. I wouldnt be surprised if this was the case here also with measuring or calculating fabric weight and it might differ from what's standard in "the West".

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                      • J
                                        Jett129
                                        見習いボス
                                        @tody
                                        Joined:

                                        @tody That’s really cool. I have on occasion seen fabric weights given in grams,and just thought it was a metric system kind of thing.

                                        last edited by todyT 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • todyT
                                          tody
                                          啓蒙家
                                          @Jett129
                                          Joined:

                                          @Jett129 Here's a conversion table: https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/ozyd2_gm2/
                                          You just have to convert both units, oz to grams, and square yard to square meter.

                                          A lot easier than converting fuel consumption, where you go by miles per gallon, and we go by liters per 100km, so there is a totally different reference point.

                                          last edited by J 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • J
                                            Jett129
                                            見習いボス
                                            @tody
                                            Joined:

                                            @tody Once again,that’s really cool as well. I’ve just occasionally seen the fabric,for example,described as 280 gms. Pima cotton. And since I know that there’s 28 grams in an ounce…simple math. But now if I ever see grams and meters…Bingo,or as @Graham would say Bazinga!

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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