Random questions to which you seek an answer
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@CosmoSix5 Question moved here.
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@CosmoSix5 I’m sorry you feel this way, but this would be the correct area for that question.
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Might be a silly one, but is the machinery of the average high street tailor capable of hemming heavy denim such as 21oz and UHR?
Got lucky and scored some 21oz IB 666s on Markkt for a steal, and wanna get them hemmed alongside my UHR, as I'm kinda of bored of the cuffed denim look at the moment.
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@Mister_Brue they've done good jobs with Wabash and 18oz denim in the past, and are the best rated tailor in my city.. I'll speak to the guy!
“𝑁𝑒𝑣𝑒𝑟 𝑙𝑒𝑡 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑓𝑢𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑒 𝑑𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑏 𝑦𝑜𝑢. 𝑌𝑜𝑢 𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙 𝑚𝑒𝑒𝑡 𝑖𝑡, 𝑖𝑓 𝑦𝑜𝑢 ℎ𝑎𝑣𝑒 𝑡𝑜, 𝑤𝑖𝑡ℎ 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑠𝑎𝑚𝑒 𝑤𝑒𝑎𝑝𝑜𝑛𝑠 𝑜𝑓 𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑠𝑜𝑛 𝑤ℎ𝑖𝑐ℎ 𝑡𝑜𝑑𝑎𝑦 𝑎𝑟𝑚 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑎𝑔𝑎𝑖𝑛𝑠𝑡 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑝𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑒𝑛𝑡.”
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This post is deleted!
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Maybe it's just me, but has there been some measurement "drift" across different patterns/cuts? Seems like a lot of shirts are shrinking in shoulder measurements and increasing in arm length. I've also noticed waist measurements, relative to the other ones on a given size, are varying to the point that I've been exploring other cuts. For example, my 888 waist measurement has been getting wider legs, so I looked at the 555, and they seem to be moving in the opposite direction - waist is increasing next to the other dimensions. I understand that it's natural to have some variation and it's an art, not a science. I guess I need to just accept that some items just aren't for me if the measurements are off for needs. Credit to the crew though, you guys always do a fantastic job digging through the stock for off-chart specific needs. Sorry for being picky!
"The greatest obstacle to living is expectancy, which hangs upon tomorrow and loses today...The whole future lies in uncertainty: Live immediately."
-Seneca -
@WhiskeySandwich I feel like it has happened,over the years,for me, in the 555 cut. The thighs have steadily increased over time from what they initially were. Never knew what to call it. Measurement drift is a good assessment.
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@Jett129 regardless, the measurement charts are indispensable. Hell of a lot better than just ordering your regular size and going "damn, that one don't fit like the others."
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I don’t think there’s a huge amount of evidence to support a pattern of measurements shifting in any particular direction, the measurements change as you point out…which is why we always measure the new runs just like you say. Perhaps on a shirt you’ve been looking at over the last 2 runs the measurements have shifted in a certain way and it’s easy to perceive that as a meaningful shift in certain direction but on the next run it could be the opposite, we just never know until we’ve got them in hand.
As you say, its an art not a science - different runs of fabric, even when woven on the same loom as previously, can have subtlety different characteristics from earlier runs, let alone all the other variables: The person in the factory interpreting Haraki-San’s patterns changes and the new person might ‘give it an extra 0.1 for safety’ when cutting and that results in a change to the result, maybe a machine has been freshly serviced and runs a little differently and that changes the result, perhaps they get made in summer rather than winter and the difference in ambient temperature or humidity changes the result ect ect ect
It’s human nature to seek patterns from randomness, even if a true cause or correlation isn’t present.
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@Ross of course i agree with you 100%. Didn't mean to pick nits, just conveying my perception. The only 'meaningful' way it would affect things at my level would be whether the measurements suit me, in particular, or not.
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It's also something that I felt was happening, @WhiskeySandwich (specifically with shirts)
I talked it through with Haraki, we both went away and checked historic measurements and couldn't really find any firm evidence to suggest I was correct. As Ross says, things vary run to run, sometimes we may get a run of three shirts in a row that you are interested in that are all a little smaller than we'd expect, but at the same time, the 5 that you were not interested in and therefore didnt check the dimensions of could all have been as expected or slightly larger.
Ultimately, does it matter? We publish the charts to help you choose, does it matter if you have some L, some XL and some XXL tops? If we got to a point where XS or 4XL guys can never fit shirts or jackets as they are too big or too small respectively, we know we have a real issue
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@Alex said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
Ultimately, does it matter? We publish the charts to help you choose, does it matter if you have some L, some XL and some XXL tops?
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I think it is cool to have size change, because preferences for tighter and looser cuts change with time, and Iron Heart clothes last longer than fit trends, so it is good to have options.
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Sometimes a shirt I'm psyched on will have perfect measurements except the shoulders are too small for me.
It would make sense to size the entire garment for the tightest acceptable measurement in a given location, but I'd be swimming in my shirts if I sized them all for the shoulders, regardless of tag.
The orange SHF, for example. I was just curious if the 'drift' was a thing. I'm not asking you to change. It's not you, it's me. It just gives me FOMO! lol
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@WhiskeySandwich I think all of us at this point know the drill when a new garment/restock comes out. Check the measurements,and we all,probably,have a measurement that’s critical. For me it’s sleeve length,for you it’s shoulders. I have the torso of an XXL and the arms of about an XL or Large. Lately I’ve been fortunate enough that they’ve been able to find me some perfect sleeve lengths,but sometimes I miss out.
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What are these? I can only find the 817 that look similar with the orange thread. I might want to pick these up online but not sure...
IG: electricindigowizard
"Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93
WTB: IH-526V-XHS - XL/XXL
IHJ-32 - XL/XXL
before the black hole was used.
