Random questions to which you seek an answer

[T4920]

@Mister_Brue they've done good jobs with Wabash and 18oz denim in the past, and are the best rated tailor in my city.. I'll speak to the guy!

[ARNC]

@T4920 there’s always the option of getting them done at Gosport (I’m sure you could drop them off when you’re there, even if there’s not time to do them immediately).

[Mister_Brue]

This post is deleted!

[WhiskeySandwich]

Maybe it's just me, but has there been some measurement "drift" across different patterns/cuts? Seems like a lot of shirts are shrinking in shoulder measurements and increasing in arm length. I've also noticed waist measurements, relative to the other ones on a given size, are varying to the point that I've been exploring other cuts. For example, my 888 waist measurement has been getting wider legs, so I looked at the 555, and they seem to be moving in the opposite direction - waist is increasing next to the other dimensions. I understand that it's natural to have some variation and it's an art, not a science. I guess I need to just accept that some items just aren't for me if the measurements are off for needs. Credit to the crew though, you guys always do a fantastic job digging through the stock for off-chart specific needs. Sorry for being picky!

[Jett129]

@WhiskeySandwich I feel like it has happened,over the years,for me, in the 555 cut. The thighs have steadily increased over time from what they initially were. Never knew what to call it. Measurement drift is a good assessment.

[WhiskeySandwich]

@Jett129 regardless, the measurement charts are indispensable. Hell of a lot better than just ordering your regular size and going "damn, that one don't fit like the others."

[Ross]

@WhiskeySandwich

I don’t think there’s a huge amount of evidence to support a pattern of measurements shifting in any particular direction, the measurements change as you point out…which is why we always measure the new runs just like you say. Perhaps on a shirt you’ve been looking at over the last 2 runs the measurements have shifted in a certain way and it’s easy to perceive that as a meaningful shift in certain direction but on the next run it could be the opposite, we just never know until we’ve got them in hand.

As you say, its an art not a science - different runs of fabric, even when woven on the same loom as previously, can have subtlety different characteristics from earlier runs, let alone all the other variables: The person in the factory interpreting Haraki-San’s patterns changes and the new person might ‘give it an extra 0.1 for safety’ when cutting and that results in a change to the result, maybe a machine has been freshly serviced and runs a little differently and that changes the result, perhaps they get made in summer rather than winter and the difference in ambient temperature or humidity changes the result ect ect ect

It’s human nature to seek patterns from randomness, even if a true cause or correlation isn’t present.

[WhiskeySandwich]

@Ross of course i agree with you 100%. Didn't mean to pick nits, just conveying my perception. The only 'meaningful' way it would affect things at my level would be whether the measurements suit me, in particular, or not.

[Alex]

It's also something that I felt was happening, @WhiskeySandwich (specifically with shirts)

I talked it through with Haraki, we both went away and checked historic measurements and couldn't really find any firm evidence to suggest I was correct. As Ross says, things vary run to run, sometimes we may get a run of three shirts in a row that you are interested in that are all a little smaller than we'd expect, but at the same time, the 5 that you were not interested in and therefore didnt check the dimensions of could all have been as expected or slightly larger.

Ultimately, does it matter? We publish the charts to help you choose, does it matter if you have some L, some XL and some XXL tops? If we got to a point where XS or 4XL guys can never fit shirts or jackets as they are too big or too small respectively, we know we have a real issue

[Matt]

@Alex said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

Ultimately, does it matter? We publish the charts to help you choose, does it matter if you have some L, some XL and some XXL tops?

[Nik]

I think it is cool to have size change, because preferences for tighter and looser cuts change with time, and Iron Heart clothes last longer than fit trends, so it is good to have options.

[WhiskeySandwich]

Sometimes a shirt I'm psyched on will have perfect measurements except the shoulders are too small for me.
It would make sense to size the entire garment for the tightest acceptable measurement in a given location, but I'd be swimming in my shirts if I sized them all for the shoulders, regardless of tag.
The orange SHF, for example. I was just curious if the 'drift' was a thing. I'm not asking you to change. It's not you, it's me. It just gives me FOMO! lol
Thanks for the responses.

[Jett129]

@WhiskeySandwich I think all of us at this point know the drill when a new garment/restock comes out. Check the measurements,and we all,probably,have a measurement that’s critical. For me it’s sleeve length,for you it’s shoulders. I have the torso of an XXL and the arms of about an XL or Large. Lately I’ve been fortunate enough that they’ve been able to find me some perfect sleeve lengths,but sometimes I miss out.

[Jett129]

@Karol This is the bike.

[Oaktavia]

What are these? I can only find the 817 that look similar with the orange thread. I might want to pick these up online but not sure...

[scooter]

@Oaktavia , I don't think they are 817. I have a pair, and they don't have the standard IH arcs...

Edit: I don't see any tools pockets, either...

[Oaktavia]

@scooter I think they might be the same 16oz denim but unsure. I also think I might have already asked this question here a while back but don't remember.

[goosehd]

@Oaktavia I think…that the pictures are crap and that the thread is actually golden, but can’t be sure. I don’t know of any threads that were used in construction that were orange.

[Oaktavia]

@goosehd here are the 817 It's either orange or gold but Heddels called it orange. Edit: Does it look like the same type of denim to you? It seems similar in style and triple stitching.

[scooter]

@goosehd , fyi, the thread on the 817 is orange.