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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    What do you consider "raw" denim to mean?

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    • UnTuckedU
      UnTucked
      Joined:

      What are you considering for pre/post soak weights?

      In search of:
      IHV-04, med.
      IHSH-185, large
      IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GilesG
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined:

        I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • BroarkB
          Broark
          Joined:

          New 16 oz. completely untreated and in the 888 cut.  😎

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Matty123M
            Matty123
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            Personally, I think of raw as loomstate. But there are A LOT of denim companies out there marketing “Raw”  Selvedge jeans that have been sanforized or treated in many ways. That confuses me. Who is to
            Say they are wrong? But either way I get excited when I see the word raw and then bummed when I read the details.

            Maybe so. Maybe not

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GilesG
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              @Matty123:

              Who is to Say they are wrong?

              Me

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Matty123M
                Matty123
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                @Giles:

                @Matty123:

                Who is to Say they are wrong?

                Me

                Is there an industry standard?

                Maybe so. Maybe not

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Megatron1505M
                  Megatron1505
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  @Giles:

                  @Matty123:

                  Who is to Say they are wrong?

                  Me

                  Me too, if it’s sanforised (at all) it is categorically not raw denim.

                  Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Matty123M
                    Matty123
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    There should be. It’s like top grain leather is top grain leather. Raw denim should mean one thing.

                    Maybe so. Maybe not

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • DionD
                      Dion
                      Joined:

                      @Giles:

                      I think I will try and go 16 or 18.  The easiest route is to use the vintage 16 and/or 18 and not sanforise or wash) it…..

                      I was hoping for something in the range of 20+ oz to start with but it will be much more difficult to keep it unsanforized and stable, I guess.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • neph93N
                        neph93
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        @Matty123:

                        Is there an industry standard?

                        No. Which is partially why I started this thread to see if there was a consensus on this forum. It seems there is. This makes me happy.

                        «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                        We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                        • Dame Vera Lynn
                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • madmondayM
                          madmonday
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                          to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                          look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                          they all eggs but you know

                          off topic but I always am

                          again great topic @neph93  as there is a super easy and clear answer to the initial question but it can branch off into so many other things based on each persons experience

                          head high, middle finger higher

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • UnTuckedU
                            UnTucked
                            Joined:

                            This is why I wear workpants… no confusion, lol

                            In search of:
                            IHV-04, med.
                            IHSH-185, large
                            IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • madmondayM
                              madmonday
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              @neph93:

                              my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent

                              good point but not easy to put into a quick sound bite to get consumers to spend their money by the old guard selling fast fashion to consumers and are just trying to turn a profit

                              as consumers become more educated and the rise of conscious consumerism with brands like Patagonia i think it will change, slowly, but change none the less

                              what is also funny is that every one has a voice, which is a good thing, but you get a lot of misinformed people making arguments that do not hold water.

                              you would not argue about the color or fruit orange, since it is a universal fact it should be the same with the term  raw denim, but you know

                              I mentioned oranges and eggs, I am hungry time to get some grub

                              head high, middle finger higher

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Matty123M
                                Matty123
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                @madmonday:

                                @Matty123 "raw denim" does mean one thing to people who are ingrained in and speak the language (at least on this forum).

                                to the casual shopper the term raw denim tends to be what ever the manufacture is peddling that day to grab the customer.

                                look at it like eggs, you got a raw egg, you got the 1 minute egg that is super runny, 3 minute egg little less runny, hard boiled egg, etc.

                                they all eggs but you know

                                Yeah that’s true. Thanks Monday

                                But for me my egg? First I break the egg on to a fine mesh screen and get all the watery clear whites gone.
                                Then 185F water for 4 minutes. Gently stiring so it doesn’t stick to the bottom. Take that shit out and bam! Perfect.  Poached 185f egg

                                Maybe so. Maybe not

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • gaseousclayG
                                  gaseousclay
                                  Joined:

                                  @manufc10:

                                  Most people don't like the unpredictable nature of loomstate, therefore underrated IMO.

                                  I'm in the camp of people who dislike the unpredictable nature of loomstate. I like the guesswork being taken out of having to figure out sizing/shrinkage, especially if you're dropping big $.

                                  WTB:
                                  IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                                  IHSH-19

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • UnTuckedU
                                    UnTucked
                                    Joined:

                                    Ditto…
                                    Never owned a pair, and likely never will.....

                                    Closest I've gotten is my Oni "Secret denim" (unsanforized)...

                                    Shockingly enough, "the guy who throws all clothes in the washer and dryer all willy nilly" is extremely apprehensive about washing these jeans using ANY methods. They will likely stay truly raw (And eventually, ripe) forever.

                                    In search of:
                                    IHV-04, med.
                                    IHSH-185, large
                                    IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • Matty123M
                                      Matty123
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      @UnTucked:

                                      Ditto…
                                      Never owned a pair, and likely never will.....

                                      Closest I've gotten is my Oni "Secret denim" (unsanforized)...

                                      Shockingly enough, "the guy who throws all clothes in the washer and dryer all willy nilly" is extremely apprehensive about washing these jeans using ANY methods. They will likely stay truly raw (And eventually, ripe) forever.

                                      Et tu Bruté?

                                      Maybe so. Maybe not

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • UnTuckedU
                                        UnTucked
                                        Joined:

                                        I have a thing for slubby, irregular denim….. Sorry! lol

                                        In search of:
                                        IHV-04, med.
                                        IHSH-185, large
                                        IHSH-186, large (khaki, and green)

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • neph93N
                                          neph93
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          @gaseousclay:

                                          I'm in the camp of people who dislike the unpredictable nature of loomstate.

                                          How do you feel about the terminology? Raw=loomstate?

                                          «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                          We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                          • Dame Vera Lynn
                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • manufc10M
                                            manufc10
                                            Iron Heart Deity
                                            Joined:

                                            @neph93:

                                            @madmonday:

                                            you use a lot of words neph, what you mean about 21oz denim?

                                            It was a pre bedtime post, and I have a rule, “Why use one word when you can use 259?”

                                            It’s edited for clarity now but my point was that great denim doesn’t have to be raw to be excellent, unique etc and the 21oz is a good example of that. It was tonnes of character despite it’s smooth even face, heavy sanforisation and fade retardant treatment. Hell, the SB denim isn’t even selvedge and doesn’t fade and is still more interesting than some Cone Mills denim I’ve owned.

                                            I agree 100%.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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