Random questions to which you seek an answer

[neph93]

@Javier:

Hi everyone;
i bought the 12oz Selvedge Denim Western Shirt "The Johnny Cash III" - Black - Size : XXL, Colour : Black; but started to think that it would be better to change it to XXXL (Triple XL).  I think that based on the measurements from this shirt, a Triple XXXL will fit better in the shoulders without looking too loose or baggy.

It is almost impossible to judge based on your body measurements. The recommended method it to measure a shirt you own that fits well using the same method as shown on the product page, then buy the size that is closest. That being said, I doubt you need XXXL if you weigh 212lbs.

[Jett129]

Those measurements look to be a little on the small size compared to the published measurements. Mine is also a little bit smaller than published measurements,but definitely not as tight as that one. Maybe you @Javier could ask IHUK if they have an XXL with bigger measurements as opposed to sizing up to a XXL. Or maybe there’s an XXXL that is smaller?

[DrPat]

@neph93:

@Javier:

Hi everyone;
i bought the 12oz Selvedge Denim Western Shirt "The Johnny Cash III" - Black - Size : XXL, Colour : Black; but started to think that it would be better to change it to XXXL (Triple XL).  I think that based on the measurements from this shirt, a Triple XXXL will fit better in the shoulders without looking too loose or baggy.

It is almost impossible to judge based on your body measurements. The recommended method it to measure a shirt you own that fits well using the same method as shown on the product page, then buy the size that is closest. That being said, I doubt you need XXXL if you weigh 212lbs.

Also, if you post some photos of yourself wearing the shirt we will be able to give you better feedback.

[Giles]

Javier does not have it yet.  He's ordered it, but is now questioning his sizing decision.  The boys will help him on Monday…

[jake77]

I couldn't find the answer to these question on the forum, but if here, please let me know the link or thread where I can find the answer to these 2 questions:

Is IH denim treated with starch as a sizing? And if so, what's the source of the starch? Corn, wheat, etc.?

Has the IH denim been treated with formaldehyde, as are most conventional denim jeans? If not, why isn't this mentioned? And vice versa? Seems like an important distinction between raw and non-raw denim.

Thanks.

[neph93]

@jake77:

I couldn't find the answer to these question on the forum, but if here, please let me know the link or thread where I can find the answer to these 2 questions:

Is IH denim treated with starch as a sizing? And if so, what's the source of the starch? Corn, wheat, etc.?

Has the IH denim been treated with formaldehyde, as are most conventional denim jeans? If not, why isn't this mentioned? And vice versa? Seems like an important distinction between raw and non-raw denim.

Thanks.

The different IH denims are all designed from scratch and the treatments (or lack thereof) are different from denim to denim.

There is also a debate as to what «raw» means. IHUK have now taken the position that «raw» really should be a synonym for «loomstate» and as such only the now defunct UHR denim was truly raw. That is to say a denim that has received no treatment after weaving or sewing.

Otherwise the level of finishing treatment varies. Some denims (the XHS for example) are partially sanforised. The flagship 21oz receives quite a lot of finishing treatment to retard fading, skewing etc. The 19oz LHT has anti-skewing treatment to stabilise the denim and to reduce leg twist.

Starch is used as a sizing agent in some IH denim, but not all. I don’t know the source of the starch I’m afraid, @Giles might be able to tell you.

EDIT: it should be noted regarding the distinction between raw/not raw, that these distinctions are not particularly important to Haraki-san, in and of themselves. He has said that selvedge denim for the sake of selvedge denim isn’t a big deal to him, for example. If he could weave the denim he wants on wide looms, he would.

[Giles]

All IH denim (in fact all denim that I know of) uses a sizing agent to reduce friction in the weaving process.  Sizing is not a post weave process, it is a vital part of the process itself.

In one of the mills…

A warm bubbly bath of sizing agent

[jake77]

Thanks gents. Interesting point of views about what "raw denim" means and what its real value is. I guess as a marketing term, it's at least an indication that the products using so-called raw denim are qualitatively different from non-raw denim. What that means… Well that's the opportunity to make a statement. And to creatively differentiate. Selvedge does offer an "almost vintage" quality -- and the colorful selvedge stitching is distinctive. The craft of making these denims also seem a vast improvement over the much less expensive alternatives.

Sizing -- interesting to know it's about the thread -- and not applied post weaving. The materials used in the sizing may only be of interest to a data driven individual, but I find it useful and not simply trivia. Starch traditionally was the byproduct of washing the starch from wheat, and vital wheat gluten (a mainly wheat gluten based flour) was a popular product out of Australia -- used for meat-like high protein meat substitutes. For those without gluten sensitivites.

Any information about formaldehyde on the denim used? Doesn't smell like there's much formaldehyde. Does no one really care?

[ROman]

Interesting what I learn. I use it in whole wheat /whole grain breads.  ::)

[Alex_24]

Complete change of topic: What’s the latest word on the new release of IH Sneakers, particularly the brown duck version please?

[Giles]

The low-tops are on hold.  We had to make some hard decisions about what products we dropped from FW20 and other items that were in the pipeline.  We felt that if we were going to have significant cash-flow issues, we needed to protect the factories and workshops that really matter to us.

[Alex_24]

Ok, good call and a sound business decision in these strange times…

Hopefully, the sneakers will make a triumphant return once we’re back to a semblance of normality.

[gaseousclay]

@Giles
@Alex

Any chance we'll get more sneak peeks of the FW20 stuff? I'm still curious about the UHF's IH is releasing this Fall

[Kasi]

sneak peeks of the FW20

Am waiting for black pair 25oz 555 

[Giles]

@gaseousclay:

@Giles
@Alex

Any chance we'll get more sneak peeks of the FW20 stuff? I'm still curious about the UHF's IH is releasing this Fall

You bet…....When we're ready......

[kiecker]

Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?

Redwing Wednesday?
Flannel Friday?
Selvedge Sunday?
Etc….

[jordanscollected]

@kiecker that was simply me bullshitting and rambling on.

There is no set "day of the week" as you suggested, to wear a certain item.

However, once in awhile @neph93 and the IHUK team create a theme week for us to follow and post photos of.

There are some language barriers though, as the first time i showed up wearing a "trucker hat" and a tee-shirt for "Trucker and a tee Friday".

a trucker to most is a type III jacket, and i was left in the cold

[neph93]

@kiecker:

Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?

Redwing Wednesday?
Flannel Friday?
Selvedge Sunday?
Etc….

I’ve made up a load and then there are some classics like the ones you mention. Although I think you spelt Wesco Wednesday wrong 

I feel the need for a theme week in the middle of all this silliness, so keep your eyes peeled tomorrow. I’ll provide a translation/explanation in order to keep @jordanscollected from looking silly

[Jett129]

C.P.cOvid-19 week?

[jordanscollected]

@Jett129 that was a stretch to make that work, but I can come full steam (i run out of gas quickly though) with the CPO's