Random questions to which you seek an answer
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I couldn't find the answer to these question on the forum, but if here, please let me know the link or thread where I can find the answer to these 2 questions:
Is IH denim treated with starch as a sizing? And if so, what's the source of the starch? Corn, wheat, etc.?
Has the IH denim been treated with formaldehyde, as are most conventional denim jeans? If not, why isn't this mentioned? And vice versa? Seems like an important distinction between raw and non-raw denim.
Thanks.
The different IH denims are all designed from scratch and the treatments (or lack thereof) are different from denim to denim.
There is also a debate as to what «raw» means. IHUK have now taken the position that «raw» really should be a synonym for «loomstate» and as such only the now defunct UHR denim was truly raw. That is to say a denim that has received no treatment after weaving or sewing.
Otherwise the level of finishing treatment varies. Some denims (the XHS for example) are partially sanforised. The flagship 21oz receives quite a lot of finishing treatment to retard fading, skewing etc. The 19oz LHT has anti-skewing treatment to stabilise the denim and to reduce leg twist.
Starch is used as a sizing agent in some IH denim, but not all. I don’t know the source of the starch I’m afraid, @Giles might be able to tell you.
EDIT: it should be noted regarding the distinction between raw/not raw, that these distinctions are not particularly important to Haraki-san, in and of themselves. He has said that selvedge denim for the sake of selvedge denim isn’t a big deal to him, for example. If he could weave the denim he wants on wide looms, he would.
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Thanks gents. Interesting point of views about what "raw denim" means and what its real value is. I guess as a marketing term, it's at least an indication that the products using so-called raw denim are qualitatively different from non-raw denim. What that means… Well that's the opportunity to make a statement. And to creatively differentiate. Selvedge does offer an "almost vintage" quality -- and the colorful selvedge stitching is distinctive. The craft of making these denims also seem a vast improvement over the much less expensive alternatives.
Sizing -- interesting to know it's about the thread -- and not applied post weaving. The materials used in the sizing may only be of interest to a data driven individual, but I find it useful and not simply trivia. Starch traditionally was the byproduct of washing the starch from wheat, and vital wheat gluten (a mainly wheat gluten based flour) was a popular product out of Australia -- used for meat-like high protein meat substitutes. For those without gluten sensitivites.
Any information about formaldehyde on the denim used? Doesn't smell like there's much formaldehyde. Does no one really care?
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Interesting what I learn. I use it in whole wheat /whole grain breads.
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Complete change of topic: What’s the latest word on the new release of IH Sneakers, particularly the brown duck version please?
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The low-tops are on hold. We had to make some hard decisions about what products we dropped from FW20 and other items that were in the pipeline. We felt that if we were going to have significant cash-flow issues, we needed to protect the factories and workshops that really matter to us.
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Ok, good call and a sound business decision in these strange times…
Hopefully, the sneakers will make a triumphant return once we’re back to a semblance of normality.
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Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?
Redwing Wednesday?
Flannel Friday?
Selvedge Sunday?
Etc…. -
@kiecker that was simply me bullshitting and rambling on.
There is no set "day of the week" as you suggested, to wear a certain item.
However, once in awhile @neph93 and the IHUK team create a theme week for us to follow and post photos of.
There are some language barriers though, as the first time i showed up wearing a "trucker hat" and a tee-shirt for "Trucker and a tee Friday".
a trucker to most is a type III jacket, and i was left in the cold
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Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?
Redwing Wednesday?
Flannel Friday?
Selvedge Sunday?
Etc….I’ve made up a load and then there are some classics like the ones you mention. Although I think you spelt Wesco Wednesday wrong
I feel the need for a theme week in the middle of all this silliness, so keep your eyes peeled tomorrow. I’ll provide a translation/explanation in order to keep @jordanscollected from looking silly
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@Jett129 that was a stretch to make that work, but I can come full steam (i run out of gas quickly though) with the CPO's
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I’ve made up a load and then there are some classics like the ones you mention. Although I think you spelt Wesco Wednesday wrong
Or is is Ignition Works Wednesday?
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Thanks gents. Interesting point of views about what "raw denim" means and what its real value is. I guess as a marketing term, it's at least an indication that the products using so-called raw denim are qualitatively different from non-raw denim. What that means… Well that's the opportunity to make a statement. And to creatively differentiate. Selvedge does offer an "almost vintage" quality -- and the colorful selvedge stitching is distinctive. The craft of making these denims also seem a vast improvement over the much less expensive alternatives.
Sizing -- interesting to know it's about the thread -- and not applied post weaving. The materials used in the sizing may only be of interest to a data driven individual, but I find it useful and not simply trivia. Starch traditionally was the byproduct of washing the starch from wheat, and vital wheat gluten (a mainly wheat gluten based flour) was a popular product out of Australia -- used for meat-like high protein meat substitutes. For those without gluten sensitivites.
Any information about formaldehyde on the denim used? Doesn't smell like there's much formaldehyde. Does no one really care?
I think you make some really valid, interesting points/questions. Realistically, I don't think that any, even eco denim, are environmentally friendly. I watched a BBC documentary on cotton denim production last year that focused on mass production a 'high end' denim - neither faired favourably). Cotton production itself is incredibly damaging to the environment (see any number of scientific reports). The water consumption required to grow cotton has a huge impact locally.
I have seen natural indigo hemp denim before. It is very lightweight and didn't have the rigidity of most other denims I've handled, but environmentally it is more sound if growing and production is downscaled (pushing costs up).
The use of non-natural indigo and formaldehyde does concern me, these are chemicals you want leeching into the water table.
My mum and dad did a river cruise in China about 15 years ago, they showed me photos of the Yangtze River, at certain points close to denim processing plants the water was purple, and then red. I'm sure these plants produced denim for the mass market retailers.
My understanding from info on IH UK is that the brand seeks to be as environmentally responsible as possible. Some countries/brands place more/less emphasis on the importance of environmentalism, and I imagine that balance is challenging when brands are multinational (as opposed to 'multinationals').
