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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Random questions to which you seek an answer

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      Javier does not have it yet.  He's ordered it, but is now questioning his sizing decision.  The boys will help him on Monday…

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • jake77J
        jake77
        Joined:

        I couldn't find the answer to these question on the forum, but if here, please let me know the link or thread where I can find the answer to these 2 questions:

        Is IH denim treated with starch as a sizing? And if so, what's the source of the starch? Corn, wheat, etc.?

        Has the IH denim been treated with formaldehyde, as are most conventional denim jeans? If not, why isn't this mentioned? And vice versa? Seems like an important distinction between raw and non-raw denim.

        Thanks.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • neph93N
          neph93
          見習いボス
          Joined:

          @jake77:

          I couldn't find the answer to these question on the forum, but if here, please let me know the link or thread where I can find the answer to these 2 questions:

          Is IH denim treated with starch as a sizing? And if so, what's the source of the starch? Corn, wheat, etc.?

          Has the IH denim been treated with formaldehyde, as are most conventional denim jeans? If not, why isn't this mentioned? And vice versa? Seems like an important distinction between raw and non-raw denim.

          Thanks.

          The different IH denims are all designed from scratch and the treatments (or lack thereof) are different from denim to denim.

          There is also a debate as to what «raw» means. IHUK have now taken the position that «raw» really should be a synonym for «loomstate» and as such only the now defunct UHR denim was truly raw. That is to say a denim that has received no treatment after weaving or sewing.

          Otherwise the level of finishing treatment varies. Some denims (the XHS for example) are partially sanforised. The flagship 21oz receives quite a lot of finishing treatment to retard fading, skewing etc. The 19oz LHT has anti-skewing treatment to stabilise the denim and to reduce leg twist.

          Starch is used as a sizing agent in some IH denim, but not all. I don’t know the source of the starch I’m afraid, @Giles might be able to tell you.

          EDIT: it should be noted regarding the distinction between raw/not raw, that these distinctions are not particularly important to Haraki-san, in and of themselves. He has said that selvedge denim for the sake of selvedge denim isn’t a big deal to him, for example. If he could weave the denim he wants on wide looms, he would.

          “Some of those that work forces
          Are the same that burn crosses”

          • Virginia Woolf
          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            All IH denim (in fact all denim that I know of) uses a sizing agent to reduce friction in the weaving process.  Sizing is not a post weave process, it is a vital part of the process itself.

            In one of the mills…

            A warm bubbly bath of sizing agent

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • jake77J
              jake77
              Joined:

              Thanks gents. Interesting point of views about what "raw denim" means and what its real value is. I guess as a marketing term, it's at least an indication that the products using so-called raw denim are qualitatively different from non-raw denim. What that means… Well that's the opportunity to make a statement. And to creatively differentiate. Selvedge does offer an "almost vintage" quality -- and the colorful selvedge stitching is distinctive. The craft of making these denims also seem a vast improvement over the much less expensive alternatives.

              Sizing -- interesting to know it's about the thread -- and not applied post weaving. The materials used in the sizing may only be of interest to a data driven individual, but I find it useful and not simply trivia. Starch traditionally was the byproduct of washing the starch from wheat, and vital wheat gluten (a mainly wheat gluten based flour) was a popular product out of Australia -- used for meat-like high protein meat substitutes. For those without gluten sensitivites.

              Any information about formaldehyde on the denim used? Doesn't smell like there's much formaldehyde. Does no one really care?

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • ROmanR
                ROman
                Haraki san Prodigy
                Joined:

                Interesting what I learn. I use it in whole wheat /whole grain breads.  ::)

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Alex_24A
                  Alex_24
                  Haraki san Expert
                  Joined:

                  Complete change of topic: What’s the latest word on the new release of IH Sneakers, particularly the brown duck version please?

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • GilesG
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined:

                    The low-tops are on hold.  We had to make some hard decisions about what products we dropped from FW20 and other items that were in the pipeline.  We felt that if we were going to have significant cash-flow issues, we needed to protect the factories and workshops that really matter to us.

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • Alex_24A
                      Alex_24
                      Haraki san Expert
                      Joined:

                      Ok, good call and a sound business decision in these strange times…

                      Hopefully, the sneakers will make a triumphant return once we’re back to a semblance of normality.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • gaseousclayG
                        gaseousclay
                        Joined:

                        @Giles
                        @Alex

                        Any chance we'll get more sneak peeks of the FW20 stuff? I'm still curious about the UHF's IH is releasing this Fall

                        WTB:
                        IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                        IHSH-19

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • KasiK
                          Kasi
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          sneak peeks of the FW20

                          Am waiting for black pair 25oz 555  😉

                          The world's insane
                          While you drink champagne
                          And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • GilesG
                            Giles
                            IHUK Crew
                            Joined:

                            @gaseousclay:

                            @Giles
                            @Alex

                            Any chance we'll get more sneak peeks of the FW20 stuff? I'm still curious about the UHF's IH is releasing this Fall

                            You bet…....When we're ready......

                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • K
                              kiecker
                              Haraki san Student
                              Joined:

                              Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?

                              Redwing Wednesday?
                              Flannel Friday?
                              Selvedge Sunday?
                              Etc….

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • jordanscollectedJ
                                jordanscollected
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                @kiecker that was simply me bullshitting and rambling on.

                                There is no set "day of the week" as you suggested, to wear a certain item.

                                However, once in awhile @neph93 and the IHUK team create a theme week for us to follow and post photos of.

                                There are some language barriers though, as the first time i showed up wearing a "trucker hat" and a tee-shirt for "Trucker and a tee Friday".

                                a trucker to most is a type III jacket, and i was left in the cold

                                world tours:
                                888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                Mad Red x2
                                Wabidashery

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • neph93N
                                  neph93
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  @kiecker:

                                  Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?

                                  Redwing Wednesday?
                                  Flannel Friday?
                                  Selvedge Sunday?
                                  Etc….

                                  I’ve made up a load and then there are some classics like the ones you mention. Although I think you spelt Wesco Wednesday wrong  😉

                                  I feel the need for a theme week in the middle of all this silliness, so keep your eyes peeled tomorrow. I’ll provide a translation/explanation in order to keep @jordanscollected from looking silly 😉

                                  “Some of those that work forces
                                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                                  • Virginia Woolf
                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • J
                                    Jett129
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    C.P.cOvid-19 week?

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • jordanscollectedJ
                                      jordanscollected
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      @Jett129 that was a stretch to make that work, but I can come full steam (i run out of gas quickly though) with the CPO's

                                      world tours:
                                      888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                      Mad Red x2
                                      Wabidashery

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • J
                                        Jett129
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        How about Virus Vest week.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • K
                                          kiecker
                                          Haraki san Student
                                          Joined:

                                          @neph93:

                                          I’ve made up a load and then there are some classics like the ones you mention. Although I think you spelt Wesco Wednesday wrong

                                          Or is is Ignition Works Wednesday?

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • neph93N
                                            neph93
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            It’s actually Wabash Wednesday, but I like any and all alliteration, so whatever you wish!

                                            “Some of those that work forces
                                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                                            • Virginia Woolf
                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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