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    Discover our "What Is?" section to learn more about denim!

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    • jake77J
      jake77
      Joined:

      I couldn't find the answer to these question on the forum, but if here, please let me know the link or thread where I can find the answer to these 2 questions:

      Is IH denim treated with starch as a sizing? And if so, what's the source of the starch? Corn, wheat, etc.?

      Has the IH denim been treated with formaldehyde, as are most conventional denim jeans? If not, why isn't this mentioned? And vice versa? Seems like an important distinction between raw and non-raw denim.

      Thanks.

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • neph93N
        neph93
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        @jake77:

        I couldn't find the answer to these question on the forum, but if here, please let me know the link or thread where I can find the answer to these 2 questions:

        Is IH denim treated with starch as a sizing? And if so, what's the source of the starch? Corn, wheat, etc.?

        Has the IH denim been treated with formaldehyde, as are most conventional denim jeans? If not, why isn't this mentioned? And vice versa? Seems like an important distinction between raw and non-raw denim.

        Thanks.

        The different IH denims are all designed from scratch and the treatments (or lack thereof) are different from denim to denim.

        There is also a debate as to what «raw» means. IHUK have now taken the position that «raw» really should be a synonym for «loomstate» and as such only the now defunct UHR denim was truly raw. That is to say a denim that has received no treatment after weaving or sewing.

        Otherwise the level of finishing treatment varies. Some denims (the XHS for example) are partially sanforised. The flagship 21oz receives quite a lot of finishing treatment to retard fading, skewing etc. The 19oz LHT has anti-skewing treatment to stabilise the denim and to reduce leg twist.

        Starch is used as a sizing agent in some IH denim, but not all. I don’t know the source of the starch I’m afraid, @Giles might be able to tell you.

        EDIT: it should be noted regarding the distinction between raw/not raw, that these distinctions are not particularly important to Haraki-san, in and of themselves. He has said that selvedge denim for the sake of selvedge denim isn’t a big deal to him, for example. If he could weave the denim he wants on wide looms, he would.

        «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
        We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

        • Dame Vera Lynn
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          All IH denim (in fact all denim that I know of) uses a sizing agent to reduce friction in the weaving process.  Sizing is not a post weave process, it is a vital part of the process itself.

          In one of the mills…

          A warm bubbly bath of sizing agent

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • jake77J
            jake77
            Joined:

            Thanks gents. Interesting point of views about what "raw denim" means and what its real value is. I guess as a marketing term, it's at least an indication that the products using so-called raw denim are qualitatively different from non-raw denim. What that means… Well that's the opportunity to make a statement. And to creatively differentiate. Selvedge does offer an "almost vintage" quality -- and the colorful selvedge stitching is distinctive. The craft of making these denims also seem a vast improvement over the much less expensive alternatives.

            Sizing -- interesting to know it's about the thread -- and not applied post weaving. The materials used in the sizing may only be of interest to a data driven individual, but I find it useful and not simply trivia. Starch traditionally was the byproduct of washing the starch from wheat, and vital wheat gluten (a mainly wheat gluten based flour) was a popular product out of Australia -- used for meat-like high protein meat substitutes. For those without gluten sensitivites.

            Any information about formaldehyde on the denim used? Doesn't smell like there's much formaldehyde. Does no one really care?

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • ROmanR
              ROman
              Haraki san Prodigy
              Joined:

              Interesting what I learn. I use it in whole wheat /whole grain breads.  ::)

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Alex_24A
                Alex_24
                Haraki san Expert
                Joined:

                Complete change of topic: What’s the latest word on the new release of IH Sneakers, particularly the brown duck version please?

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • GilesG
                  Giles
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined:

                  The low-tops are on hold.  We had to make some hard decisions about what products we dropped from FW20 and other items that were in the pipeline.  We felt that if we were going to have significant cash-flow issues, we needed to protect the factories and workshops that really matter to us.

                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Alex_24A
                    Alex_24
                    Haraki san Expert
                    Joined:

                    Ok, good call and a sound business decision in these strange times…

                    Hopefully, the sneakers will make a triumphant return once we’re back to a semblance of normality.

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • gaseousclayG
                      gaseousclay
                      Joined:

                      @Giles
                      @Alex

                      Any chance we'll get more sneak peeks of the FW20 stuff? I'm still curious about the UHF's IH is releasing this Fall

                      WTB:
                      IHSH-129 size L (blue)
                      IHSH-19

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • KasiK
                        Kasi
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        sneak peeks of the FW20

                        Am waiting for black pair 25oz 555  😉

                        Not an admin. Not a mod. But the guy whose fits turn heads and whose name comes up when people ask, “how should this piece fit?” 🖕

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          @gaseousclay:

                          @Giles
                          @Alex

                          Any chance we'll get more sneak peeks of the FW20 stuff? I'm still curious about the UHF's IH is releasing this Fall

                          You bet…....When we're ready......

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • K
                            kiecker
                            Haraki san Student
                            Joined:

                            Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?

                            Redwing Wednesday?
                            Flannel Friday?
                            Selvedge Sunday?
                            Etc….

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • jordanscollectedJ
                              jordanscollected
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              @kiecker that was simply me bullshitting and rambling on.

                              There is no set "day of the week" as you suggested, to wear a certain item.

                              However, once in awhile @neph93 and the IHUK team create a theme week for us to follow and post photos of.

                              There are some language barriers though, as the first time i showed up wearing a "trucker hat" and a tee-shirt for "Trucker and a tee Friday".

                              a trucker to most is a type III jacket, and i was left in the cold

                              world tours:
                              888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                              Mad Red x2
                              Wabidashery

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • neph93N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                @kiecker:

                                Is there a list somewhere of what each day of the week is?

                                Redwing Wednesday?
                                Flannel Friday?
                                Selvedge Sunday?
                                Etc….

                                I’ve made up a load and then there are some classics like the ones you mention. Although I think you spelt Wesco Wednesday wrong  😉

                                I feel the need for a theme week in the middle of all this silliness, so keep your eyes peeled tomorrow. I’ll provide a translation/explanation in order to keep @jordanscollected from looking silly 😉

                                «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                • Dame Vera Lynn
                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  Jett129
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  C.P.cOvid-19 week?

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • jordanscollectedJ
                                    jordanscollected
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    @Jett129 that was a stretch to make that work, but I can come full steam (i run out of gas quickly though) with the CPO's

                                    world tours:
                                    888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                                    Mad Red x2
                                    Wabidashery

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • J
                                      Jett129
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      How about Virus Vest week.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • K
                                        kiecker
                                        Haraki san Student
                                        Joined:

                                        @neph93:

                                        I’ve made up a load and then there are some classics like the ones you mention. Although I think you spelt Wesco Wednesday wrong

                                        Or is is Ignition Works Wednesday?

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • neph93N
                                          neph93
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          It’s actually Wabash Wednesday, but I like any and all alliteration, so whatever you wish!

                                          «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                          We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                          • Dame Vera Lynn
                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • neph93N
                                            neph93
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            @Jett129:

                                            How about Virus Vest week.

                                            There may be something to work there… I like it.

                                            «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                            We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                            • Dame Vera Lynn
                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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