Random questions to which you seek an answer

[louisbosco]

@neph93:

Yes indeed. What are you wondering about?

On the 555, the rise is higher than the 666 and the waist size is bigger in relation to tag size. The thigh is about as tight at the top as the 666, but tapers sharply into a tight knee. The knee then goes down to a much narrower hem. I like the cut a lot, but struggle with the thigh/waist ratio.

i'm sorta trying to look for another cut.

i fit into a 666 perfectly. loved every moment of the fit and how it looked when i wore the UHRs for the DWC. now the 634 and 888 are too big of a cut for me. tried on the 777 when i was in bangkok and i didn't really like the rise and it may be a little too skinny for my liking, which leaves me the 555 as the other option.

also, i feel  that i'm in between sizes right now. i'm slowly gaining a little more around the waist and so i'm not quite confident in picking sizes.

[Palmer]

The 666 and 555 are the best fitting cuts for me. However, I have to be more selective about which models of the 555 I get because of the differences in the waist that @neph93 mentioned.

[neph93]

@louisbosco:

@neph93:

…tried on the 777 when i was in bangkok and i didn't really like the rise and it may be a little too skinny for my liking...

i'm slowly gaining a little more around the waist

In many ways the 777 is slightly roomier than the 555, in the thigh and the knee at least. The major difference is that they taper more evenly down the entire length of the leg. So the thigh is about the same, the knee wider, but the leg below the knee much more tapered.

However the 777 top block is much trimmer than the 555. This may be a good thing for you if you are widening around the middle.

[Jett129]

@louisbosco Something you might consider is the Pronto/Iron Heart PIH10ANT It’s probably more like a 666 cut than a 555,and the 22OZ denim is really wonderful.

[neph93]

It’s a great cut for sure. Very balanced. Top block is certainly similar to the 666 and the taper not as acute as with the 777, nor as slim as the 555.

[Jett129]

I think that denim is very underrated. If it was just a mere 3OZ  per square yard heavier,weighing in at 25OZ people would be loosing their minds over it.

[louisbosco]

@neph93:

In many ways the 777 is slightly roomier than the 555, in the thigh and the knee at least. The major difference is that they taper more evenly down the entire length of the leg. So the thigh is about the same, the knee wider, but the leg below the knee much more tapered.

However the 777 top block is much trimmer than the 555. This may be a good thing for you if you are widening around the middle.

haha. i'm widening around the tummy waist. didn't mind the 777 but looking back, i probably could've tried on a different size. only recently felt that my usually size is getting tighter.. wouldn't mind a slightly more taper below the knee anyway.. so i suppose it's which i feel more comfortable in around the rise of them..

@Jett129:

@louisbosco Something you might consider is the Pronto/Iron Heart PIH10ANT It’s probably more like a 666 cut than a 555,and the 22OZ denim is really wonderful.

thanks. i'll have a look at them. i usually tend not to get collaboration models..

[neph93]

Question 1:

Does natural indigo produce better fades than synthetic indigo?

Question 2:

Do the majority of jeans produced by premium denim brands use synthetic denim?

I ask because I believe I read somewhere a number of years ago that most premium selvedge is produced with synthetic indigo and that aside from the environmental impact synthetic indigo has no other disadvantages when compared to natural indigo.

Then I read this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B7ApgKhn49_/?igshid=he2qdu5ohgwc

[louisbosco]

@neph93:

Question 1:

Does natural indigo produce better fades than synthetic indigo?

Question 2:

Do the majority of jeans produced by premium denim brands use synthetic denim?

1. i don't think it generally produce better fades because of natural vs synthetic. it all boils down to the wearer and the subjective aspect of what you think is "better fades" or nicer fades.

2)i believe most do produce with synthetic indigo. because of the higher costs, if someone produces in natural indigo, you'd bet there will be all sorts of naming to actually inform you that it is made with natural indigo. most natural indigo products will state that in its name of the product.

i know PBJ does a new models in NI, so do samurai with certain anniversary models. Visvim is another brand that use a lot of natural dyes, not just indigo..

[Giles]

This statement is a complete crock of shit.

"That’s because the best selvedge is hand dipped many, many times."

As for NI fading better than synthetic, I also believe that to be bollocks.  I have a pair of heavily worn NI that I would challenge anyone to know was NI when compared to my equally worn synthetic.

I am certainly not a proponent for synthetic indigo and am always delighted when we do make denims out of NI, but there is some serious bullshit expounded about it, just like 1) Japan bought all the old shuttle looms from the US when the major US jeans/denim manufacturers moved away from Selvedge b) The only loopwheel machines left in the world are in one town in Japan.

As an industry, we love to create these myths because it makes it sound more mysterious and thus alluring.

As a parallel, fly-fishing for Bonefish is billed as one of the most difficult types of fishing there is.  This is a myth expounded by guides who charge upwards of USD500 to help you catch them.  They're really easy to catch when you know what you are doing….

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yeah there is a lot of bullshit written in that IG post. Especially the pair pictured is never a hank dyed pair of natural indigo denim because if you penetrate the core with indigo…well there is no white to core to create fades.

PBJ has an example of a 6 years worn pair of AI jeans...they just look lighter overall but it's hard to find distinctive fades.

[Giles]

@beautiful_FrEaK:

Especially the pair pictured is never a hank dyed pair of natural indigo denim because if you penetrate the core with indigo…well there is no white to core to create fades.

Exactly.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

In their favor they don't exactly claim that but everybody would make the assumption the pair pictured would be NI.

[Giles]

They could be NI, we do rope-dyed natural indigo, but rope-dyeing is not hand-dipped.

[organisys]

The IG post above also confuses by mixing statements on natural or synthetic Indigo (the dye) and with hand and machine dying (the method).

[Chris]

Always remember that Hiut was started by an advertising executive.  They're great at creating an emotional hook.

[Seul]

^Subscriped.

[neph93]

@organisys @beautiful_FrEaK @Chris and the rest of the gang, thank you. I admit that this was a poorly concealed attempt to have a bit if a go on my part.

I'm loathe to speak ill of other brands on here, and I like a lot about Hiut, but their marketing sometimes drives me nuts. These guys sold the whole "no wash" thing heavily when they started about eight years ago and
when I saw this post last night, it took a great deal of will power not to get stuck into them on Instagram. It was worse when I read the comments from people stuffing their faces full of this happy horseshit with both hands. But I resisted the instincts of my inner troll and posted here instead.

Led by a genius ad-man they may be, but the trite, spurious, confusion of dyeing techniques combined with a load of bollocks about natural indigo being far superior to synthetic, and only used by the best for the most superior fades, made my teeth itch. It is tantamount to either wilfully misleading your customer, or indicative of a level of ignorance unbecoming of the writer of the text. I find it rather annoying that it happens and more so that people lap up the indelicate codswallop.

#rantover

[Jett129]

Have to admit I’ve never seen or heard the word codswallop before. Now that I’ve googled it,I can’t imagine ever saying it with my ,wonderful,Bronx accent.

[neph93]

I think some things are best left to our respective dialects. Codswallop is one. I don’t think I could ever pull off a «forget about it» with the same dismissive panache that a true New Yorker can.