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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Random questions to which you seek an answer

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      All twill weaves will try to twist, whatever the colour because of the uneven tensions created in the weaving process.  Canvas and Chambray, being prime weaves, do not twist at all.

      We try to take out the twist post weave, but it is not an exact science.

      https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3907.msg199987#msg199987

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • setandsettingS
        setandsetting
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined:

        Anyone know where I can get a hat similar to this RRL one in style, but perhaps in a nicer plaid or herringbone or plain or whatever pattern?

        https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-accessories-hats-scarves-gloves/fitted-earflap-cap/494188.html

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • K
          kkibbey23
          Haraki san Prodigy
          Joined:

          @setandsetting:

          Anyone know where I can get a hat similar to this RRL one in style, but perhaps in a nicer plaid or herringbone or plain or whatever pattern?

          https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-accessories-hats-scarves-gloves/fitted-earflap-cap/494188.html

          The only place I can think of is stormy kromer. I've got one I really like

          https://www.stormykromer.com/mens-caps/

          Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • steelworkerS
            steelworker
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            @setandsetting:

            Anyone know where I can get a hat similar to this RRL one in style, but perhaps in a nicer plaid or herringbone or plain or whatever pattern?

            https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-accessories-hats-scarves-gloves/fitted-earflap-cap/494188.html

            @setandsetting try stormy kromer ah I see kibby beat me to it

            Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
            Well, I have others.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • louisboscoL
              louisbosco
              啓蒙家
              Joined:

              anyone here that has worn 666 also have experience with 555?

              "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

              • Harvey Specter
              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • J
                Jett129
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                The 555s are my favorite,best fitting cut. I tried a pair of 666 in the 18OZ Vintage denim,and I really like the denim, but the 666 cut just doesn’t look as good on me. Not sure this helps. I don’t have big thighs,so I don’t need the extra room.

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • neph93N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  @louisbosco:

                  anyone here that has worn 666 also have experience with 555?

                  Yes indeed. What are you wondering about?

                  On the 555, the rise is higher than the 666 and the waist size is bigger in relation to tag size. The thigh is about as tight at the top as the 666, but tapers sharply into a tight knee. The knee then goes down to a much narrower hem. I like the cut a lot, but struggle with the thigh/waist ratio.

                  “Some of those that work forces
                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                  • Virginia Woolf
                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • louisboscoL
                    louisbosco
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    @neph93:

                    Yes indeed. What are you wondering about?

                    On the 555, the rise is higher than the 666 and the waist size is bigger in relation to tag size. The thigh is about as tight at the top as the 666, but tapers sharply into a tight knee. The knee then goes down to a much narrower hem. I like the cut a lot, but struggle with the thigh/waist ratio.

                    i'm sorta trying to look for another cut.

                    i fit into a 666 perfectly. loved every moment of the fit and how it looked when i wore the UHRs for the DWC. now the 634 and 888 are too big of a cut for me. tried on the 777 when i was in bangkok and i didn't really like the rise and it may be a little too skinny for my liking, which leaves me the 555 as the other option.

                    also, i feel  that i'm in between sizes right now. i'm slowly gaining a little more around the waist and so i'm not quite confident in picking sizes.

                    "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                    • Harvey Specter
                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • PalmerP
                      Palmer
                      Iron Heart Deity
                      Joined:

                      The 666 and 555 are the best fitting cuts for me. However, I have to be more selective about which models of the 555 I get because of the differences in the waist that @neph93 mentioned.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • neph93N
                        neph93
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        @louisbosco:

                        @neph93:

                        …tried on the 777 when i was in bangkok and i didn't really like the rise and it may be a little too skinny for my liking...

                        i'm slowly gaining a little more around the waist

                        In many ways the 777 is slightly roomier than the 555, in the thigh and the knee at least. The major difference is that they taper more evenly down the entire length of the leg. So the thigh is about the same, the knee wider, but the leg below the knee much more tapered.

                        However the 777 top block is much trimmer than the 555. This may be a good thing for you if you are widening around the middle.

                        “Some of those that work forces
                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                        • Virginia Woolf
                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • J
                          Jett129
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          @louisbosco Something you might consider is the Pronto/Iron Heart PIH10ANT It’s probably more like a 666 cut than a 555,and the 22OZ denim is really wonderful.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • neph93N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            It’s a great cut for sure. Very balanced. Top block is certainly similar to the 666 and the taper not as acute as with the 777, nor as slim as the 555.

                            “Some of those that work forces
                            Are the same that burn crosses”

                            • Virginia Woolf
                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • J
                              Jett129
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              I think that denim is very underrated. If it was just a mere 3OZ  per square yard heavier,weighing in at 25OZ people would be loosing their minds over it.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • louisboscoL
                                louisbosco
                                啓蒙家
                                Joined:

                                @neph93:

                                In many ways the 777 is slightly roomier than the 555, in the thigh and the knee at least. The major difference is that they taper more evenly down the entire length of the leg. So the thigh is about the same, the knee wider, but the leg below the knee much more tapered.

                                However the 777 top block is much trimmer than the 555. This may be a good thing for you if you are widening around the middle.

                                haha. i'm widening around the tummy waist. didn't mind the 777 but looking back, i probably could've tried on a different size. only recently felt that my usually size is getting tighter.. wouldn't mind a slightly more taper below the knee anyway.. so i suppose it's which i feel more comfortable in around the rise of them..

                                @Jett129:

                                @louisbosco Something you might consider is the Pronto/Iron Heart PIH10ANT It’s probably more like a 666 cut than a 555,and the 22OZ denim is really wonderful.

                                thanks. i'll have a look at them. i usually tend not to get collaboration models..

                                "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                • Harvey Specter
                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • neph93N
                                  neph93
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  Question 1:

                                  Does natural indigo produce better fades than synthetic indigo?

                                  Question 2:

                                  Do the majority of jeans produced by premium denim brands use synthetic denim?

                                  I ask because I believe I read somewhere a number of years ago that most premium selvedge is produced with synthetic indigo and that aside from the environmental impact synthetic indigo has no other disadvantages when compared to natural indigo.

                                  Then I read this:

                                  https://www.instagram.com/p/B7ApgKhn49_/?igshid=he2qdu5ohgwc

                                  “Some of those that work forces
                                  Are the same that burn crosses”

                                  • Virginia Woolf
                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • louisboscoL
                                    louisbosco
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    @neph93:

                                    Question 1:

                                    Does natural indigo produce better fades than synthetic indigo?

                                    Question 2:

                                    Do the majority of jeans produced by premium denim brands use synthetic denim?

                                    1. i don't think it generally produce better fades because of natural vs synthetic. it all boils down to the wearer and the subjective aspect of what you think is "better fades" or nicer fades.

                                    2)i believe most do produce with synthetic indigo. because of the higher costs, if someone produces in natural indigo, you'd bet there will be all sorts of naming to actually inform you that it is made with natural indigo. most natural indigo products will state that in its name of the product.

                                    i know PBJ does a new models in NI, so do samurai with certain anniversary models. Visvim is another brand that use a lot of natural dyes, not just indigo..

                                    "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                    • Harvey Specter
                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      This statement is a complete crock of shit.

                                      "That’s because the best selvedge is hand dipped many, many times."

                                      As for NI fading better than synthetic, I also believe that to be bollocks.  I have a pair of heavily worn NI that I would challenge anyone to know was NI when compared to my equally worn synthetic.

                                      I am certainly not a proponent for synthetic indigo and am always delighted when we do make denims out of NI, but there is some serious bullshit expounded about it, just like 1) Japan bought all the old shuttle looms from the US when the major US jeans/denim manufacturers moved away from Selvedge b) The only loopwheel machines left in the world are in one town in Japan.

                                      As an industry, we love to create these myths because it makes it sound more mysterious and thus alluring.

                                      As a parallel, fly-fishing for Bonefish is billed as one of the most difficult types of fishing there is.  This is a myth expounded by guides who charge upwards of USD500 to help you catch them.  They're really easy to catch when you know what you are doing….

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • B
                                        beautiful_FrEaK
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        Yeah there is a lot of bullshit written in that IG post. Especially the pair pictured is never a hank dyed pair of natural indigo denim because if you penetrate the core with indigo…well there is no white to core to create fades.

                                        PBJ has an example of a 6 years worn pair of AI jeans...they just look lighter overall but it's hard to find distinctive fades.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • GilesG
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined:

                                          @beautiful_FrEaK:

                                          Especially the pair pictured is never a hank dyed pair of natural indigo denim because if you penetrate the core with indigo…well there is no white to core to create fades.

                                          Exactly.

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • B
                                            beautiful_FrEaK
                                            Raw and Unwashed
                                            Joined:

                                            In their favor they don't exactly claim that but everybody would make the assumption the pair pictured would be NI.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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