Iron Heart Cuts Overview
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I have a question @Steve and please forgive my ignorance if the answer is simple…
Since one of the distinguishing features of each pair is where it sits on the waist, shouldn’t the top line have them reflecting that (ie. low, mid or hi)? I’m having a hard time telling the difference between where each pair sits and how that affects potentially sizing up or down. Based on the graphics the hem and waist all line up so it creates the impression, to me, that they’d all sit the same. I can see that the crotch position varies, but that isnt helping me visualize how each pair fits.
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Do you mean something like this @Matt ? We did try this view at an early design stage, but ended up with uneven hems, so went with a more uniform guide in the end. TBH there probably isn't a 'correct' way to show this, as everyone has different ways of processing info and equally I guess different ways of wearing their jeans
(Got my tool out first thing this morning to knock this up for you)
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@Steve - think that is really helpful. As a 555 man I wear them as I like the fit bit have always struggled with the difference between high rise and medium rise: this helps a lot
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I think those are valid points @Steve thanks for that. I do prefer the rise centric view and I think since the length is the most consistently variable feature of all the cuts it seems the least helpful to have them all aligned. The fact that the inseam measurements can be easily altered per the wearer’s preferences reinforces this point. With cuffing and hemming you can get the length exactly where you want it. The rise in n the other hand is what it is so seeing that comparison would be my preference.
Thanks for hearing me out.
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I personally think the comparison that lines up all the crotches is clearer at showing the different rises.
I really like the 'The [CUT] Compared' series. If I could add something, I'd add little annotations making the differences super clear.
Edit: something like this but not amateur hour:
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Begging for a tapered 555ish cut.
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Question for you UK folk… in the description for the 555, it says ‘They look great on larger people who want a slim look below the knee.’
When you say ‘larger’, do you mean taller? Or fatter? Or both?
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@Buckeye said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:
Question for you UK folk… in the description for the 555, it says ‘They look great on larger people who want a slim look below the knee.’
When you say ‘larger’, do you mean taller? Or fatter? Or both?
I suspect that was @Giles being politically correct for ‘fatter’
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@Buckeye a little of both? Lol I'm 6'4.5" 228lbs and the 555 is my favorite IH fit so far. Taller guys benefit from a higher rise. I bought the 777 first and looked goofy. Like I was split into 2 in the middle.
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I'm glad I found this thread. I've been lurking for a good while, trying to determine which cut should be my first pair of Iron Heart denim. I've been looking at each cut and have been left a little bewildered though undeterred.
I'm hoping the faithful and knowledgeable denim heads here can recommend my next pair. it would join three IH shirts.
First, I'll start with what I like with fits and then measurements important to me. In the eight or so pairs of raw denim I've gathered over the last few years, I find that a full top block suits my athletic mid-section. (and my backside, to which my wife constantly reminds me of how much she likes it). I take this to mean that mid to full rise suits me better because there's enough fabric up top and out back to cover the ol' pamplemousse. So I've interpreted this to mean that nearly all slim and skinny cuts won't work.
Measurements for me tend to come in well around 11-ish inches front rise and a 15-ish back rise. The waist is usually 33 to 34.5, depending on the denim. This usually puts in tags 31 and 32 for many brands and probably a 33 tag for most Iron Heart cuts.
I'm mostly a boot guy when it comes to selvage denim and I've come to like an ~8-ish inch opening. A little less if I'm wearing cowboy boots and a little more if the boots are chunkier. And I've found a knee of about 8 to 9 inches to be a sweet spot; 8 if it's a cowboy cut and 9 inches for a proper straight cut.
The 634 looks like it could be a contender, but it sports a bigger knee and hem of 9.5 and 9.2, respectively. That seems a little big to me. The 777 looks to slim things up just enough in the knee and opening. Is that my jam? Then there's the 888...
Am I thinking about all this correctly? Or, more likely, am I overthinking it?
And lastly, I intend on either the 25 oz or 21/23 oz because full send!
Safety third
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@Bobcat-Sig Have you looked at the 666 cut? Smaller hem opening versus the 634. Gotta watch the thigh measurement with the 666 though.
WTB IHJ-140-IG size L
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@Bobcat-Sig Please email the Iron Heart Crew at shop@ironheart.co.uk and they will steer you in the right direction. The guys that work there are the best guide to help you along your journey.
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@bluemantra said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:
@Bobcat-Sig Have you looked at the 666 cut? Smaller hem opening versus the 634. Gotta watch the thigh measurement with the 666 though.
The cut number alone has my attention. I do remember looking at it, though I likely wasn't sure and kept wading through the cuts and their measurements. I'll give it another look. Thank you,
@goosehd said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:
@Bobcat-Sig Please email the Iron Heart Crew at shop@ironheart.co.uk and they will steer you in the right direction. The guys that work there are the best guide to help you along your journey.
Will do. Thank you!
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@Bobcat-Sig I also highly recommend the compare feature on the website:
You can add up to three items to directly compare measurements. This may make life easier for you when deciding which cut and fabric to choose
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@Bobcat-Sig Great to hear you are looking at adding a pair of jeans to the collection! will definitely make a fine addition. When looking at UHR or XHS denim it is really important to remember the shrinkage that will take effect within the denim when you soak/wash them, you can expect approximately 1" in the waist and length for the XHS (25oz), and 1" inch in the waist and 1-2 inch" approximately in the length for the UHR (21/23oz).
In terms of a cut, I would be inclined to look at 888 personally it does sit higher then our other jeans and the jeans you have mentioned, but it does give you a nice little taper and still works well with boots, if you are okay with a higher rise then could be a good place to start. I would have a look at a tag 33/34 for both UHR and XHS denim. I would just double check your thigh measurement on your jeans as well as this will be important.
When trying a new brand and their jeans, there can be an element of trial and error to ensure the sizing is perfect so I wouldn't get too caught up and over think anything, trust the measurements and the measuring process and measuring video on our product pages to help narrow down a good fit.
You do sound like your on the right lines but if you do want myself or anyone here to double check any measurements please don't hesitate to reach out shop@ironheart.co.uk and we will be here to help.
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@sabergirl Oh, nice! Self Edge is in my town, though I've not yet been to that location. I'll give that cut a look. Thank you!
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got to try out the 888s in 19L. Fantastic. Been wearing 777s for last 4yrs. 888 fits better. Esp in top block. Maybe after I get hemmed and if i need more taper, I’ll see about having Rain do it? Interestingly I found that my optimal inseam for the higher rise (888s) is 0.5-1” longer. Considering my main failure mode with my 777s is with crotch seams, I wonder if 888s on me would hold up better there too?
