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Iron Heart Cuts Overview

General Info About Iron Heart Products
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  • G
    goosehd
    Mod Squad
    @Steve
    Joined: 8 Apr 2016

    @Steve Excellent tool!!!

    "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

    last edited by 29 Jun 2023, 15:42 A 1 Reply Last reply 29 Jun 2023, 15:56 Reply Quote 0
    • A
      Alex
      IHUK Crew
      @goosehd
      Joined: 28 Sept 2009

      @goosehd said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:

      @Steve tool!!!

      He gets enough of that at work, @goosehd - cut him a break

      last edited by 29 Jun 2023, 15:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
      • M
        Matt
        見習いボス
        Joined: 4 Oct 2011

        That’s really cool. I love @Steve ’s tool.

        last edited by 29 Jun 2023, 17:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • K
          Karol
          啓蒙家
          @Steve
          Joined: 14 Nov 2022

          @Steve now we are talking!!!!
          Freaking awesome!

          Favorite:
          IH-888S-21 | IH-888-XHSib | IH-805 | IH-729-PUR | IH-555-XHS | IH-555S-25MB
          IHSH-339-SAX | IHSH-341-BLK | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-362-BLK | IHSH-409-IB | IHSH-336-OD | IHSB-BIGBUCK-BLK
          IHV-44-BLK | IHV-02-BLK
          IHJ-75-BLK | IHJ-79-BLK | IHM-37-ODG

          last edited by 29 Jun 2023, 17:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • M
            Matt
            見習いボス
            Joined: 4 Oct 2011

            I wouldn’t mind seeing some more pictures of @Steve ’s tool.

            last edited by 29 Jun 2023, 17:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • M
              Matt
              見習いボス
              Joined: 4 Oct 2011

              I have a question @Steve and please forgive my ignorance if the answer is simple…

              Since one of the distinguishing features of each pair is where it sits on the waist, shouldn’t the top line have them reflecting that (ie. low, mid or hi)? I’m having a hard time telling the difference between where each pair sits and how that affects potentially sizing up or down. Based on the graphics the hem and waist all line up so it creates the impression, to me, that they’d all sit the same. I can see that the crotch position varies, but that isnt helping me visualize how each pair fits.

              last edited by Matt 29 Jun 2023, 18:47 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
              • S
                Steve
                IHUK Crew
                Joined: 28 Mar 2018

                Do you mean something like this @Matt ? We did try this view at an early design stage, but ended up with uneven hems, so went with a more uniform guide in the end. TBH there probably isn't a 'correct' way to show this, as everyone has different ways of processing info and equally I guess different ways of wearing their jeans

                (Got my tool out first thing this morning to knock this up for you)

                IRON HEART CUTS option 2.jpg

                insta
                @saturdaytypefever
                @steve_ironheart

                last edited by Steve 30 Jun 2023, 07:55 C 1 Reply Last reply 30 Jun 2023, 08:08 Reply Quote 6
                • C
                  Crispy Heron
                  Haraki san Prodigy
                  @Steve
                  Joined: 1 Jan 2021

                  @Steve - think that is really helpful. As a 555 man I wear them as I like the fit bit have always struggled with the difference between high rise and medium rise: this helps a lot

                  last edited by 30 Jun 2023, 08:08 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • S
                    sabergirl
                    見習いボス
                    Joined: 4 Oct 2013

                    Fwiw I find this second version with the waists and hems on different levels way easier to understand, also.

                    Both are great resources, in any case! Thank you for all your hard work putting these together, Steve.

                    last edited by sabergirl 30 Jun 2023, 11:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                    • M
                      Mizmazzle
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                      I agree. I like the version that shows the rise at a different level as well. This tool is super helpful! Maybe I can pull off the 555 cut afterall!!!

                      In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                      last edited by 30 Jun 2023, 15:07 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • M
                        Matt
                        見習いボス
                        Joined: 4 Oct 2011

                        I think those are valid points @Steve thanks for that. I do prefer the rise centric view and I think since the length is the most consistently variable feature of all the cuts it seems the least helpful to have them all aligned. The fact that the inseam measurements can be easily altered per the wearer’s preferences reinforces this point. With cuffing and hemming you can get the length exactly where you want it. The rise in n the other hand is what it is so seeing that comparison would be my preference.

                        Thanks for hearing me out.

                        last edited by 1 Jul 2023, 01:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • E
                          EdH
                          Iron Heart Deity
                          Joined: 2 Jan 2022

                          I personally think the comparison that lines up all the crotches is clearer at showing the different rises.

                          I really like the 'The [CUT] Compared' series. If I could add something, I'd add little annotations making the differences super clear.

                          Edit: something like this but not amateur hour:

                          IMG_0399.png

                          Take the dive...

                          last edited by EdH 7 Mar 2023, 14:30 3 Jul 2023, 14:28 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • C
                            CosmoSix5
                            Haraki san Prodigy
                            Joined: 4 Sept 2023

                            Begging for a tapered 555ish cut.

                            WTB Brund Flannel 2 or 3x

                            last edited by 3 Aug 2024, 02:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • B
                              Buckeye
                              Haraki san Prodigy
                              Joined: 7 Aug 2023

                              Question for you UK folk… in the description for the 555, it says ‘They look great on larger people who want a slim look below the knee.’

                              When you say ‘larger’, do you mean taller? Or fatter? Or both?

                              last edited by 3 Aug 2024, 06:12 A C 2 Replies Last reply 3 Aug 2024, 09:52 Reply Quote 0
                              • A
                                Alex
                                IHUK Crew
                                @Buckeye
                                Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                                @Buckeye said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:

                                Question for you UK folk… in the description for the 555, it says ‘They look great on larger people who want a slim look below the knee.’

                                When you say ‘larger’, do you mean taller? Or fatter? Or both?

                                I suspect that was @Giles being politically correct for ‘fatter’

                                last edited by 3 Aug 2024, 09:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                • C
                                  CosmoSix5
                                  Haraki san Prodigy
                                  @Buckeye
                                  Joined: 4 Sept 2023

                                  @Buckeye a little of both? Lol I'm 6'4.5" 228lbs and the 555 is my favorite IH fit so far. Taller guys benefit from a higher rise. I bought the 777 first and looked goofy. Like I was split into 2 in the middle.

                                  WTB Brund Flannel 2 or 3x

                                  last edited by 3 Aug 2024, 15:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • Bobcat SigB
                                    Bobcat Sig
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined: 24 Sept 2021

                                    I'm glad I found this thread. I've been lurking for a good while, trying to determine which cut should be my first pair of Iron Heart denim. I've been looking at each cut and have been left a little bewildered though undeterred.

                                    I'm hoping the faithful and knowledgeable denim heads here can recommend my next pair. it would join three IH shirts.

                                    First, I'll start with what I like with fits and then measurements important to me. In the eight or so pairs of raw denim I've gathered over the last few years, I find that a full top block suits my athletic mid-section. (and my backside, to which my wife constantly reminds me of how much she likes it). I take this to mean that mid to full rise suits me better because there's enough fabric up top and out back to cover the ol' pamplemousse. So I've interpreted this to mean that nearly all slim and skinny cuts won't work.

                                    Measurements for me tend to come in well around 11-ish inches front rise and a 15-ish back rise. The waist is usually 33 to 34.5, depending on the denim. This usually puts in tags 31 and 32 for many brands and probably a 33 tag for most Iron Heart cuts.

                                    I'm mostly a boot guy when it comes to selvage denim and I've come to like an ~8-ish inch opening. A little less if I'm wearing cowboy boots and a little more if the boots are chunkier. And I've found a knee of about 8 to 9 inches to be a sweet spot; 8 if it's a cowboy cut and 9 inches for a proper straight cut.

                                    The 634 looks like it could be a contender, but it sports a bigger knee and hem of 9.5 and 9.2, respectively. That seems a little big to me. The 777 looks to slim things up just enough in the knee and opening. Is that my jam? Then there's the 888...

                                    Am I thinking about all this correctly? Or, more likely, am I overthinking it?

                                    And lastly, I intend on either the 25 oz or 21/23 oz because full send!

                                    Safety third

                                    last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 21:51 bluemantraB G 2 Replies Last reply 22 Aug 2024, 22:01 Reply Quote 0
                                    • bluemantraB
                                      bluemantra
                                      Haraki san Prodigy
                                      @Bobcat Sig
                                      Joined: 19 Feb 2023

                                      @Bobcat-Sig Have you looked at the 666 cut? Smaller hem opening versus the 634. Gotta watch the thigh measurement with the 666 though.

                                      WTB IHJ-140-IG size L

                                      last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 22:01 Bobcat SigB 1 Reply Last reply 22 Aug 2024, 22:22 Reply Quote 1
                                      • G
                                        goosehd
                                        Mod Squad
                                        @Bobcat Sig
                                        Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                                        @Bobcat-Sig Please email the Iron Heart Crew at shop@ironheart.co.uk and they will steer you in the right direction. The guys that work there are the best guide to help you along your journey.

                                        "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                        last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 22:09 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                        • Bobcat SigB
                                          Bobcat Sig
                                          Raw and Unwashed
                                          @bluemantra
                                          Joined: 24 Sept 2021

                                          @bluemantra said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:

                                          @Bobcat-Sig Have you looked at the 666 cut? Smaller hem opening versus the 634. Gotta watch the thigh measurement with the 666 though.

                                          The cut number alone has my attention. I do remember looking at it, though I likely wasn't sure and kept wading through the cuts and their measurements. I'll give it another look. Thank you,

                                          @goosehd said in Iron Heart Cuts Overview:

                                          @Bobcat-Sig Please email the Iron Heart Crew at shop@ironheart.co.uk and they will steer you in the right direction. The guys that work there are the best guide to help you along your journey.

                                          Will do. Thank you!

                                          Safety third

                                          last edited by 22 Aug 2024, 22:22 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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