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    Iron Heart - The Future

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      Not yet. But interestingly, we were told at one of the mills we went to, that the cost of running the projectile looms was rising as a result. I did not ask why......

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by ARNCA 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • ARNCA
        ARNC
        見習いボス
        @Giles
        Joined:

        @Giles thanks for the reply. Hope it stays not yet. I know there are bigger concerns in this whole situation (not for discussion here) but it would be a shame for IH to take the hit for something that’s clearly not your fault.

        “His thoughts were red thoughts and his teeth were white.“

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
        • Go For ChillG
          Go For Chill
          Iron Heart Deity
          @ARNC
          Joined:

          @ARNC said in Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything:

          Prompted by this, should we expect a bunch of monochrome UHFs this year? More seriously, is the Iran situation having any direct impact on IH production?

          Reminds me of this.
          Screenshot 2026-05-13 at 9.17.50 AM.png

          The above comment should be read with all the levity your current mental state will allow.

          "Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." -Thomas Edison

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
          • jordanscollectedJ
            jordanscollected
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            Do you guys have Iron Heart business cards? Just curious what they look like if you do.

            world tours:
            888 Fat guy chocolate WT
            Mad Red x2
            Wabidashery

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • AlexA
              Alex
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              I have a few in Japanese, for when I am in Japan. We don't really use them in the west any more, though

              IMG_0170.JPG

              last edited by dirtyframerD 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
              • dirtyframerD
                dirtyframer
                Haraki san Expert
                @Alex
                Joined:

                @Alex Times sure have changed, I remember early in my career that receiving your first box of cards was a crowning achievement , it meant you had some level of importance and that others NEEDED your contact- was something special.

                And now when someone asks for a business card I sit and think- "Is this the 2000s or what??"

                IG: mgm.woodworks & denim_n_boots

                "Every day work harder on yourself than you do at work."

                last edited by bryaneidins70B 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • AlexA
                  Alex
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined:

                  Now you just bump phones.. 🙂

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                  • dirtyframerD
                    dirtyframer
                    Haraki san Expert
                    Joined:

                    On a good note at least I should be seeing another leather jacket from yall today 😉 UPS pending...

                    IG: mgm.woodworks & denim_n_boots

                    "Every day work harder on yourself than you do at work."

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • bryaneidins70B
                      bryaneidins70
                      Iron Heart Deity
                      @dirtyframer
                      Joined:

                      @dirtyframer I think its summed up quite well in American Psyco when they are sat around the table in the meeting room .

                      'Fail we may…Sail we must'

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • nurunuruN
                        nurunuru
                        Joined:

                        I remember when I was studying Japanese a couple decades ago, there was a whole chapter in the textbook devoted to the language/etiquette of exchanging business cards ("meishi no koukan"). Glad it's still a thing over there.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • SKTS
                          SKT
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          I’m curious as to the design/construction process when deciding between polyester or Primaloft for insulation in technical pieces and is there a measurable trade off in insulating properties between the two in your experience?

                          Rampant Hemmer

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • MizmazzleM
                            Mizmazzle
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            @Alex @Giles

                            I’ve been enjoying learning about some of the larger more well known denim mills in Japan lately. I was curious about some of the mills that Iron Heart uses. Would it be possible to share the names of some of them? Perhaps the mill who makes the 21oz OG denim?

                            Does IH tend to use smaller, mom and pop type mills (if there is such a thing) or are all the mills of the same large corporate size like Kurabo? Kaihara or Kuroki seem to be primarily denim focused, but still rather large mills.

                            I find the history of the mills really interesting.

                            In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                            last edited by Mizmazzle 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              Kuroki makes the 21oz. We have 6 dedicated looms, but getting more (and we desperately need more) has been comprehensively buggered by Levis realising that Japanese denim is actually rather good, so they are monopolising the Kuroki looms, oh and by the way, offshoring to Turkey, Mexico etc etc a few decades ago meant that Cone went tits up, so they cant buy decent denim in the US now. The sense of irony can not be over emphasised, and it is really hurting us.

                              The UHR was made in a mom and pop house factory, but the mom died earlier this year, so the future of UHR may be no future.

                              Various other mills make the other denims, but I tend not to be that bothered where the stuff is made as long as Haraki likes it, that's good enough for me 🙂

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by MizmazzleM 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 10
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                And if you look in the Japan visits thread in Trips and Travel, there will plenty of photos of visits to mills….

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                • MizmazzleM
                                  Mizmazzle
                                  見習いボス
                                  @Giles
                                  Joined:

                                  @Giles nice! Thanks for sharing all that. In my imagination I always conjure up images of old, Japanese men and women dressed in hand woven robes laboring over old, wooden looms, tirelessly pulling the bar back and forth, weaving them denim. While I know this is unrealistic fantasy in this day and age, I love the idea nonetheless.

                                  I did a bunch of reading on Kurabo Mills and learned what a gigantic and diversified corporation they are. With ventures in biotech, pharmaceutical, biomass power plants, and so much more. It sort of completely dashed my old world “mom and pop” handmade textile imagery.

                                  In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                  • northsouthdenimguyN
                                    northsouthdenimguy
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined:

                                    Maybe this is common knowledge and I just missed it, but do you/Haraki have any ownership or investment in the mills that produce your fabrics? Or are they all independent partners?

                                    @selveldgesteps

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      Independent

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by northsouthdenimguyN 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                      • S
                                        Slash
                                        Raw and Unwashed
                                        Joined:

                                        Didn't know Levi was in the high-end Japanese denim.
                                        Looking at their offer, I fail to understand the appeal for 12oz denim priced at 295$...
                                        Monopolizing the mills for that is a scandal 😛

                                        last edited by W 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                        • northsouthdenimguyN
                                          northsouthdenimguy
                                          啓蒙家
                                          @Giles
                                          Joined:

                                          @Giles

                                          That’s what I thought. As a small business owner, my gut says owning a mill would be one of the last things I’d want to sink millions of dollars into. Seems like you’d have to keep it running at a massive scale and probably make products for a lot more than just the Iron Heart community to make the numbers work.

                                          @selveldgesteps

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                          • W
                                            will6er
                                            The Unwoven
                                            @Slash
                                            Joined:

                                            @Slash A "non demim" person was talking to me about Levis Blue Tab. They are advertising is as Japan made and the Japan made is expensive but the collection is probably 10-15% Japan made, similar Japan made denim made up china, rest china / cheap location. I guess they are taking a lot of capacity but there isn't enough for the whole collection.

                                            TLDR - Blue label looked to me that they are marking up on the perception of a premium product from premium locations but mostly it isn't.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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