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    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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    • goosehdG
      goosehd
      Mod Squad
      Joined:

      Thanks G.  So when do you start planning a collection (9-10 months - shorter/longer) for each season?

      "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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      • GilesG
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined:

        Alex and I start seeding ideas whenever we have flashes of brilliance  😃 😃 😃 whenever we think of them.  Haraki starts the "formal" process the moment the previous collection has gone to production, so FW21 will have started being thought about in Oct/Nov 20.

        The Fleece-lined type III. Alex and I thought about this probably 18 months ago and we have sampled it a couple of times, we decided to include it as part of the FW21 collection, it won't be released in Japan.

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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        • goosehdG
          goosehd
          Mod Squad
          Joined:

          So almost a year out.  You guys do a pretty good job of guessing how we'll react (although it's almost always like a pack of ravenous dogs) to the new releases.

          "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            Well, that is very kind.  One of the discussions I have most with Alex, starts "how did we fuck the numbers on that so much….?"

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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            • SoleampS
              Soleamp
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              I'm a relative newcomer on here, although I have lurked for a while, so this has probably been answered somewhere else.  Since you have said that you pretty much wear one pair for a year, what do you do with all of your old/retired pairs (since they all look pretty amazing once you are done with them)?

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              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                • SoleampS
                  Soleamp
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  @Giles:

                  They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display….

                  Figured it was probably something like that…definitely display worthy.  Mine just go in my closest, haha.

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                  • jordanscollectedJ
                    jordanscollected
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    Giles-

                    I've been curious but have had problems forming the question to go from my brain out my mouth hole.

                    What % of the factories time that Haraki uses are just spent making Iron Heart clothing? Do the factories make clothes for other brands too? If so, could we assume those other brands have the same quality construction as Iron Heart but without the proprietary materials that Haraki weaves? I can see another Japanese company boasting, "Sewn by the same people who make Iron Heart's famous 21 oz. jeans or western shirts)

                    I feel like i could ask a ton of supporting questions, but I think I have it laid out there.

                    world tours:
                    888 Fat guy chocolate WT
                    Mad Red x2
                    Wabidashery

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • GilesG
                      Giles
                      IHUK Crew
                      Joined:

                      Jeff,

                      We use a number of factories, all of who make clothes for other brands.  I do not know what percentage, but it is rising all the time as we grow and most other brands in our space are treading water at best.  In fact, we had a Zoom with H on Tuesday and we discussed the fact that our single biggest constraint on growth was how much time we could/can get in the factories.  Haraki has just started negotiating more time in each factory.  I gave him his opening gambit "you want to back a winner or a loser?"…......Re: the quality, perhaps there are various "levels" and therefore price-points for making stuff.  I do know that Haraki is an absolute sticker for quality, and if I know, you can bet your bottom Dollar that the factories know that too.  Add to this, Haraki is extremely highly respected in the whole Amekaji space, would you want to irritae him?

                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                      • mclaincauseyM
                        mclaincausey
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        @Giles , filed under "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," I wonder whether there will ever be a situation where it makes sense for IH to vertically integrate some of their lines. I guess you really have to be at the right scale and rhythm to pull that off and perhaps companies like The Flat Head were more vulnerable if they were more integrated than IH. I could see the share of production for a factory trending up until it hits 100%, and then a "feck it, let's buy you out" thing happening, but it seems like the flexibility to source different factories works out awfully well for all of us and I don't understand how in-housing would impact internal costs, quality, and flexibility… but it intrigues me as a topic.

                        Think it, be it.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • GilesG
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          We built a shirt factory once.  The first (and only) shirt we made there was the ill-fated IHSH-102-TG.  We decided to let someone else have the shag and hassle….

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                          • D
                            DrPat
                            Iron Heart Deity
                            Joined:

                            What was wrong with the IHSH-102?  I had the maroon and cream but sold it because the arms were too short for me.  Otherwise I thought it was a good shirt.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • GilesG
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined:

                              I should have been more specific, It was this one )post above edited for clarity):

                              Turquoise/Grey Ultra Heavy Buffalo Check Work Shirt
                              IHSH-102-TG

                              Towards the end of the article.

                              https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

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                              • Bfd70B
                                Bfd70
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                I seem to remember a release schedule posted but cannot find. Am i mistaken?

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                                • goosehdG
                                  goosehd
                                  Mod Squad
                                  Joined:

                                  @Bfd70 https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=16111.0

                                  "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

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                                  • Bfd70B
                                    Bfd70
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    Thanks

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                                    • NikN
                                      Nik
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      Hi Giles hope you had a good fishing trip. I just moved into a house that needs work. Some parts of it might more reasonably be called a shit hole. For example, this 15cm bathroom scab was where the previous owner pulled a toilet roll holder out of the plaster and brick. But there are also cracks to the outside walls. Can you or Les recommend a good builder who can repair brickwork and do general repairs in Eastney?

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                                      • weftyarnW
                                        weftyarn
                                        Iron Heart Deity
                                        Joined:

                                        @Giles:

                                        https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

                                        That is such an interesting read. And you are 100% right with your conclusion that people (me at least) don't buy for the weight, but for the quality.

                                        I can imagine though, that customer get drawn in by the heavy, by that get to learn the quality and, finally, then opt for all the other amazing products, heavy or not. Am I right with that?

                                        Use it or lose it.

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                                        • mclaincauseyM
                                          mclaincausey
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          That was my journey, @weftyarn , though I would add the level of service and ethics that the international team consistently demonstrates figures in as well.

                                          Think it, be it.

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                                          • weftyarnW
                                            weftyarn
                                            Iron Heart Deity
                                            Joined:

                                            @mclaincausey Absolutely! The whole experience is unmatched.

                                            Use it or lose it.

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