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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

    The Resource Centre
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    • jordanscollectedJ
      jordanscollected
      啓蒙家
      Joined:

      Giles-

      I've been curious but have had problems forming the question to go from my brain out my mouth hole.

      What % of the factories time that Haraki uses are just spent making Iron Heart clothing? Do the factories make clothes for other brands too? If so, could we assume those other brands have the same quality construction as Iron Heart but without the proprietary materials that Haraki weaves? I can see another Japanese company boasting, "Sewn by the same people who make Iron Heart's famous 21 oz. jeans or western shirts)

      I feel like i could ask a ton of supporting questions, but I think I have it laid out there.

      world tours:
      888 Fat guy chocolate WT
      Mad Red x2
      Wabidashery

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • GilesG
        Giles
        IHUK Crew
        Joined:

        Jeff,

        We use a number of factories, all of who make clothes for other brands.  I do not know what percentage, but it is rising all the time as we grow and most other brands in our space are treading water at best.  In fact, we had a Zoom with H on Tuesday and we discussed the fact that our single biggest constraint on growth was how much time we could/can get in the factories.  Haraki has just started negotiating more time in each factory.  I gave him his opening gambit "you want to back a winner or a loser?"…......Re: the quality, perhaps there are various "levels" and therefore price-points for making stuff.  I do know that Haraki is an absolute sticker for quality, and if I know, you can bet your bottom Dollar that the factories know that too.  Add to this, Haraki is extremely highly respected in the whole Amekaji space, would you want to irritae him?

        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • mclaincauseyM
          mclaincausey
          見習いボス
          Joined:

          @Giles , filed under "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," I wonder whether there will ever be a situation where it makes sense for IH to vertically integrate some of their lines. I guess you really have to be at the right scale and rhythm to pull that off and perhaps companies like The Flat Head were more vulnerable if they were more integrated than IH. I could see the share of production for a factory trending up until it hits 100%, and then a "feck it, let's buy you out" thing happening, but it seems like the flexibility to source different factories works out awfully well for all of us and I don't understand how in-housing would impact internal costs, quality, and flexibility… but it intrigues me as a topic.

          Think it, be it.

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            We built a shirt factory once.  The first (and only) shirt we made there was the ill-fated IHSH-102-TG.  We decided to let someone else have the shag and hassle….

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • D
              DrPat
              Iron Heart Deity
              Joined:

              What was wrong with the IHSH-102?  I had the maroon and cream but sold it because the arms were too short for me.  Otherwise I thought it was a good shirt.

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • GilesG
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined:

                I should have been more specific, It was this one )post above edited for clarity):

                Turquoise/Grey Ultra Heavy Buffalo Check Work Shirt
                IHSH-102-TG

                Towards the end of the article.

                https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Bfd70B
                  Bfd70
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  I seem to remember a release schedule posted but cannot find. Am i mistaken?

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • goosehdG
                    goosehd
                    Mod Squad
                    Joined:

                    @Bfd70 https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=16111.0

                    "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • Bfd70B
                      Bfd70
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      Thanks

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • NikN
                        Nik
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        Hi Giles hope you had a good fishing trip. I just moved into a house that needs work. Some parts of it might more reasonably be called a shit hole. For example, this 15cm bathroom scab was where the previous owner pulled a toilet roll holder out of the plaster and brick. But there are also cracks to the outside walls. Can you or Les recommend a good builder who can repair brickwork and do general repairs in Eastney?

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • weftyarnW
                          weftyarn
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined:

                          @Giles:

                          https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

                          That is such an interesting read. And you are 100% right with your conclusion that people (me at least) don't buy for the weight, but for the quality.

                          I can imagine though, that customer get drawn in by the heavy, by that get to learn the quality and, finally, then opt for all the other amazing products, heavy or not. Am I right with that?

                          Use it or lose it.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • mclaincauseyM
                            mclaincausey
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            That was my journey, @weftyarn , though I would add the level of service and ethics that the international team consistently demonstrates figures in as well.

                            Think it, be it.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • weftyarnW
                              weftyarn
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined:

                              @mclaincausey Absolutely! The whole experience is unmatched.

                              Use it or lose it.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • mclaincauseyM
                                mclaincausey
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                Man, @Haraki-san is such an honorable gentleman. Love hearing stories like this from Giles' interview:

                                He’s really honourable and fair when he comes up with something for us, or we come up with something like the 666 or the 555. He refuses to take it, even if I say he can…often for years, because it was our idea.

                                I feel like ethics are in decay everywhere I turn. I keep being disappointed by people not honoring their word or consistently living by a moral standard. I love supporting people who understand that morals and ethics matter.

                                Anyway, it's a great piece and everyone should read it.

                                Think it, be it.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Bfd70B
                                  Bfd70
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  How old are you? You seem to be getting after it pretty well.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • GilesG
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined:

                                    64

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • OaktaviaO
                                      Oaktavia
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      Same age as my pops.

                                      IG: electricindigowizard

                                      "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                                      WTB: IHJ-32 - XL/XXL

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • hajdukH
                                        hajduk
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined:

                                        @Giles:

                                        64

                                        64 is a fantastic…shirt![emoji6]

                                        Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

                                        "Ignorance, allied with power, is the most ferocious enemy justice can have" James Baldwin.

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • neph93N
                                          neph93
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          @hajduk:

                                          @Giles:

                                          64

                                          64 is a fantastic…shirt![emoji6]

                                          Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

                                          To be fair… that shirt is rugged, a pleasure to look at and has a very soft hand. Just like Giles.  Oh, and it’s quite thick too. [emoji2960]

                                          «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                          We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                          • Dame Vera Lynn
                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Filthy2123ozjunkieF
                                            Filthy2123ozjunkie
                                            見習いボスー
                                            Joined:

                                            64 is the GOAT 🐐

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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