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    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      Jeff,

      We use a number of factories, all of who make clothes for other brands.  I do not know what percentage, but it is rising all the time as we grow and most other brands in our space are treading water at best.  In fact, we had a Zoom with H on Tuesday and we discussed the fact that our single biggest constraint on growth was how much time we could/can get in the factories.  Haraki has just started negotiating more time in each factory.  I gave him his opening gambit "you want to back a winner or a loser?"…......Re: the quality, perhaps there are various "levels" and therefore price-points for making stuff.  I do know that Haraki is an absolute sticker for quality, and if I know, you can bet your bottom Dollar that the factories know that too.  Add to this, Haraki is extremely highly respected in the whole Amekaji space, would you want to irritae him?

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • mclaincauseyM
        mclaincausey
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        @Giles , filed under "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," I wonder whether there will ever be a situation where it makes sense for IH to vertically integrate some of their lines. I guess you really have to be at the right scale and rhythm to pull that off and perhaps companies like The Flat Head were more vulnerable if they were more integrated than IH. I could see the share of production for a factory trending up until it hits 100%, and then a "feck it, let's buy you out" thing happening, but it seems like the flexibility to source different factories works out awfully well for all of us and I don't understand how in-housing would impact internal costs, quality, and flexibility… but it intrigues me as a topic.

        Think it, be it.

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          We built a shirt factory once.  The first (and only) shirt we made there was the ill-fated IHSH-102-TG.  We decided to let someone else have the shag and hassle….

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • D
            DrPat
            Iron Heart Deity
            Joined:

            What was wrong with the IHSH-102?  I had the maroon and cream but sold it because the arms were too short for me.  Otherwise I thought it was a good shirt.

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • GilesG
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined:

              I should have been more specific, It was this one )post above edited for clarity):

              Turquoise/Grey Ultra Heavy Buffalo Check Work Shirt
              IHSH-102-TG

              Towards the end of the article.

              https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Bfd70B
                Bfd70
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined:

                I seem to remember a release schedule posted but cannot find. Am i mistaken?

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • goosehdG
                  goosehd
                  Mod Squad
                  Joined:

                  @Bfd70 https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=16111.0

                  "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Bfd70B
                    Bfd70
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    Thanks

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • NikN
                      Nik
                      Raw and Unwashed
                      Joined:

                      Hi Giles hope you had a good fishing trip. I just moved into a house that needs work. Some parts of it might more reasonably be called a shit hole. For example, this 15cm bathroom scab was where the previous owner pulled a toilet roll holder out of the plaster and brick. But there are also cracks to the outside walls. Can you or Les recommend a good builder who can repair brickwork and do general repairs in Eastney?

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • weftyarnW
                        weftyarn
                        Iron Heart Deity
                        Joined:

                        @Giles:

                        https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

                        That is such an interesting read. And you are 100% right with your conclusion that people (me at least) don't buy for the weight, but for the quality.

                        I can imagine though, that customer get drawn in by the heavy, by that get to learn the quality and, finally, then opt for all the other amazing products, heavy or not. Am I right with that?

                        Use it or lose it.

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • mclaincauseyM
                          mclaincausey
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          That was my journey, @weftyarn , though I would add the level of service and ethics that the international team consistently demonstrates figures in as well.

                          Think it, be it.

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • weftyarnW
                            weftyarn
                            Iron Heart Deity
                            Joined:

                            @mclaincausey Absolutely! The whole experience is unmatched.

                            Use it or lose it.

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • mclaincauseyM
                              mclaincausey
                              見習いボス
                              Joined:

                              Man, @Haraki-san is such an honorable gentleman. Love hearing stories like this from Giles' interview:

                              He’s really honourable and fair when he comes up with something for us, or we come up with something like the 666 or the 555. He refuses to take it, even if I say he can…often for years, because it was our idea.

                              I feel like ethics are in decay everywhere I turn. I keep being disappointed by people not honoring their word or consistently living by a moral standard. I love supporting people who understand that morals and ethics matter.

                              Anyway, it's a great piece and everyone should read it.

                              Think it, be it.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Bfd70B
                                Bfd70
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined:

                                How old are you? You seem to be getting after it pretty well.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • GilesG
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined:

                                  64

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • OaktaviaO
                                    Oaktavia
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    Same age as my pops.

                                    IG: electricindigowizard

                                    "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                                    WTB: IHJ-72- XL/XXL

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • hajdukH
                                      hajduk
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined:

                                      @Giles:

                                      64

                                      64 is a fantastic…shirt![emoji6]

                                      Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

                                      "Ignorance, allied with power, is the most ferocious enemy justice can have" James Baldwin.

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • neph93N
                                        neph93
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        @hajduk:

                                        @Giles:

                                        64

                                        64 is a fantastic…shirt![emoji6]

                                        Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

                                        To be fair… that shirt is rugged, a pleasure to look at and has a very soft hand. Just like Giles.  Oh, and it’s quite thick too. [emoji2960]

                                        “Some of those that work forces
                                        Are the same that burn crosses”

                                        • Virginia Woolf
                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • Filthy2123ozjunkieF
                                          Filthy2123ozjunkie
                                          見習いボスー
                                          Joined:

                                          64 is the GOAT 🐐

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • J
                                            Jett129
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            Had to look that shirt up,and in the description it says it’s about 70% heavier than our heaviest flannel. Just out of curiosity…When was that shirt being made and what was the heaviest flannel back then.

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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