Posts made by Bobcat Sig

@Appfaff Hell yes! Love it. Almost all slim cut is a no-go on me, unfortunately. Much to the delight of my wife, I'm blessed with a proper backside. And a lifetime of skiing, hiking, mountain biking, and motorcycles has left me with properly meaty thighs. I even have to watch knee measurements. Otherwise, if that's too small, my calves take up all of the lower leg and I get all manner of boot printing and bucketing.

Nonetheless, I'm digging the experimentation and look forward to seeing the results.

I'm glad this thread exists.

Elsewhere here on the forum, I saw mention of someone removing and then restitching the leather patch to keep it from shrinking or taking too much of a beating in a super hot soak. While I'm not intending such punishment on a pair of jeans, I do want to relocate a patch for a bit of customization. Are these things you're doing? Or are you having a local shop or seamstress perform this reattachment? If so, what sort of equipment do they need or that I need to ask about, to properly restitch a leather patch?

Again, this is the content that I've been after here on the IH forums since I joined. Lots of gate-keeping elsewhere on the ol' internet around cowboy boots and western wear, so I'm stoked to see this level of sharing and discussion. Love it

@injunjack I do love a treasure hunt! I'll take a look. Thanks for tip.

@Appfaff My man. Thank you. I'll slide into the ol' DMs about hats and other western things. I don't want to run afoul of the hygiene we have here on the forum.

You've sent me down a rabbit hole on comparing my 25 oz 888 and 13 MWZ. My sweet wife is going to wonder why I have my jeans spread out on the island.

Back to IH denim. I'm all but convinced that some flavor of 634 would be a great way to find the intersection between Japanese denim and western wear. What was it about that cut that didn't do it for you? Was it the lower rise?

The thread I’ve been looking for all of my (IH) life! Ok… more like recently. Love it all the same.

@Appfaff great break down. Just what I’ve been after. In fact, I write this as I wear a black pair of Wrangler 13 MWZ and Lucchese blue sueded hornback caiman boots, on my way home from El Paso.

On the 888 and 13 MWZ comparison, I would not have likened those two together. While the 888 is a glorious jean with a high rise, I find the taper too much for my western preference. While the hem fits over boots, it just doesn’t jive with what I’m used to. I think this means I need to give it another look.

I tried on some Cinch White Labels at Starr yesterday. Good value and spot on the more relaxed fit.

I’m absolutely keeping your notes on hats. That’s my next frontier. My Red Bull KTM is a good look, but isn’t quite up to the level of a proper U.S. hat.

Thanks again for the awesome detail here!

I'm way late in responding to this thread. Three days out of two, amongst a very frothy time at work, and business travel on top of it all.

First, some gratitude to @goosehd for breaking this out into its own thread. I appreciate it. An apology is also in order. I'm sure you see more than your fair share of frequently asked questions from low-post count and new members. I know I've been guilty of that in the past. So all good, my friend, and thanks for all you do here.

As to the evergreen content of denim, I was after a discussion of the 634, in general. And among the greater topics, its suitability for western wear. While jeans like the Wrangler 13 MWZ and Levi's 501 exist, they've left me wanting more from jeans I intend to wear with cowboy boots. Some boot manufacturers (Lucchese and Tecovas, to name a few) have started to produce their own denim, but like their established cousins, they leave me wanting more. Of, in the case of Lucchese, the price simply does not match the quality.

So, like many things in this game, most roads lead back to Iron Heart.

I seek a heavier pair - 16 oz and heavier - that I can pair with western boots. I also prize the straight cut of the 634, as it's similar to the 13 MWZ. When some manufacturers have tried to mimic vintage style, which I appreciate, the knees get tightened, and the fit goes out the window for me. And while there are other manufacturers that produce a suitable pair of jeans, the fabric quality of Iron Heart is preferable. A broken twill gives a clean hand, so I like the superior weave of most of Iron Heart's denims. Even the slubby versions have tidiness I rarely see in other Japanese denims - mainly S'dA, Samurai, and Oni.

The tl;dr is that I'm leaning towards a 16 oz version, a LHT, 19 or 21 oz version. The 18 oz vintage looks super cool, but I might be waiting a while for a restock.

What's been your favorite 634 to wear with western booth? (besides all of them, of course)

Intentionally, I asked an open-ended question based on the three or four 634 jeans that are available. I want the different answers. I want to hear why denim heads chose that particular fabric, based on use with cowboy boots.. And because we don’t have a general 634 thread, this seems as good a spot as any for some open dialogue.

It would’ve been helpful to mention that I’ve been down those rabbit holes of the jeans I’ve mentioned. And many more I didn’t mention. The Hall of Fades is under my frequently visited sites because I’ve visited it so much recently. Good times.

I’m looking to talk 634 at a general level, that’s all.

This has been a great discussion around Iron Heart and western denim.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread >> https://forum.ironheart.co.uk//post/990816 I ended up with two pairs of Wrangler, one of which is Japanese selvage. Pretty cool. They are currently line drying after an initial cold soak.

But let's talk picking a 634, as this is the Iron Heart forum, after all. [@goosehd if there's a general 634 thread where this is better served, I'll gladly move this discussion there]

I'm leaning towards a heavier fabric, something more than 15 oz. I was sold on the 16 oz slub indigo over-dyed black, but wasn't quick enough with the trigger last week. The 16 oz slub indigo looks like a great option, although I have three other pairs of slubby Japanese jeans that work with boots.

The 19 oz seems like a great option; an atypical twill and a fade that seems to streak vertically a bit, which I dig. It's also not a weight I've had in Iron Heart or any other denim.

The 18 oz vintage seemed super cool, but no restock in the near future.

What else might I consider?

@twinning Sweet! Good catch. I'm gravitating towards heavier denim; 16 oz plus, but I'll for sure give those a look. Thanks for the heads up.

I still kick myself for not buying this when I had the chance. Glad to see so many pictures of this amazing shirt out and about.

@Rickyuu, you did the right thing by measuring existing denim that you like and wear. You will find, as you dive deeper into this type of denim, that sizing will vary. I have pairs tagged as small as 30 inches, and all the way up to 34. Measuring is the way.

@dirtyframer from the top rope!! Those are amazing. Who is the maker?

@northsouthdenimguy said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

@Bobcat-Sig

For what it’s worth…

For years before I ever started wearing IH denim, I always thought the 666 was super slim. I think a lot of that had to do with the product pics that I noticed typically featured thinner people.

I’ll try to keep this short, but I’ve had people more than once think I was wearing 634s when I was actually wearing 666’s. I think on certain body types, like myself at 6 feet tall, 220 pounds with a somewhat athletic build, they can look and fit completely different than you might expect. They certainly aren’t too slim for a bigger guy and fit over engineer boots just fine, which is pretty much all I wear. I have one pair of the 25oz XHS indigo in a size 36, but all my other 666s are a 38W.

Another vote for the 666. I love it. I'll give that cut a look. The areas that always hamper me are the seat; I have a healthy set of glutes, much to the delight of my wife. Thighs and calves are always thing. Thighs less so now that I'm not skiing 100+ days a winter, but calves can play hell with tapered fits, especially skinny taper.

I'll see if my guys at SE PDX have a few pairs of 666 to try.

@Jett129 said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

@Bobcat-Sig One other thing that, if nothing else,you might find interesting as a fan of Wrangler jeans,is the collaboration that Imogene and Willie are doing with Wrangler. The jeans that they’re putting out are based off of the 10 MWZ jeans.

I saw those. Super cool! But it sold out almost immediately. It was so popular that some guys managed to make the female cut work for them, to which I tip my cap. That's dedication!

I think my plan now is to snag a pair of Wrangler Blue Bell in black, along with a standard pair of black 13 MWZ. I'll also find a weight in the 634 that I want to try. The 19 oz LHT looks promising, as does some of the lighter weights.

I appreciate all the input. This place is truly great.

@sabergirl said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

Vintage wrangler cowboy cut is closest to a 666. Those things are crazy skinny in the top block, especially the thigh. I think if you grabbed a pair and measured, you’d be surprised to see how close they are.

You aren't kidding! I think the issue is that the hem isn't big enough for what I seek. Still, I wrote off the 666, thinking it was too skinny for me. And reality, it's not. Which is great because this means I have another IH cut I could fit into. Great news! Now I need to try on a few pairs...

@Jett129 said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

@Bobcat-Sig I,comfortably,wear my 555s over western and engineer boots. I’m pretty sure that when Mike at Ship John designs his jeans,Wranglers are his inspiration. Might be worth looking into.

Yes, I know this cut well. I have an early pair of Ship John Shavers - they feature a Ship John leather patch. I bought them early in my denim journey and didn't realize what they were. While I've continue to wear them, they are probably too skinny for my legs, and the top block is too restrictive. They've produced some sweet fades, which I'll share at some point. I also have a pair of Holcombs that feature the brass-tacked tag to the pocket. Those are much more accomodating, but no quite the same at the 13 MWZ. I like this pair of Ship John a great deal.

@Tago-Mago said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

@Bobcat-Sig one cut that has only been available at Iron Heart Germany so far is the 684, a relaxed straight fit. This will be released in a few different denims in the future, including 14oz black/black.

Here are the measurements for the first model: IH-684S-16-GER.

You could also check the Hall of Fades to get an idea of how the different denims develop over time

The 684 looks like an interesting cut. A little big in the legs, but exciting that there may be more coming! Thanks for suggesting those jeans.

I'll check the Hall of Fades for the OD results.

@goosehd said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

I have been able to wear 666’s, 634’s, and 684’s with cowboy and engineer boots. However, those are the only jeans that I wear, so I don’t know if any others work

I know, helpful, not helpful…

LOL, all good. Confirmation that the 634 works well with cowoby boots helps. I know we have some here that sport western boots, but we seem to be heavily skewed towards work and heritage boots. The 666 is a cut I'd love to try, if only for the name, but my Viking legs just won't fit, nor will my backside.

@Tago-Mago Great questions. Yes, I have tried the comparo tool and seem to land on the 634. The biggest driver in this quest is the leg, its taper (or lack thereof), and hem measurement.

As for color, no, it doesn't absolutely need to be black. It's merely a preference. As you'll probably see in the Show Us Your Boots thread, I have a raft of new pairs that will pair well with black or dark denim. Indigo is always an option, certainly. Overdyed is not a color I've yet experienced. It's certainly intriguing.

I've been in acquisition mode the last few months.

First, I've long coveted the Foot Patrol. And now, they are mine. I did just wee bit of prep on them; burned a few threads off, conditioned the inside of the tongue to speed up break in, and trimmed off the rubber whiskers from the rubber sole. I also flipped the kilties over after trimming off the fringe. I'm anxious to see how this will look after some break in.

I've been eyeing another pair of moc toes with a lugged sole. With a pair of Trumans already in the closet, I wanted to see what other owners were raving about. I snagged a pair of Double Stuffed Charcoal.

As you'll see, I have a penchant for cowboy boots and western wear where it intersects with Japanese heritage and selvage denim. I've had my eye on another reptile-skinned boot. The chase was focused on rattlesnakes, but those are proving to be both popular and hard to find. Rujo is a newer brand, with boots handmade in Mexico, and often features a sale. I picked up these water snake boots. The hides don't quite match as I'd like, but they are hard to beat for the price.

And most recently, work took me to El Paso. I've long been looking for a pair of Lucchese Boots and of the few times I've had a chance to stop into a store, the selection wasn't what I was after or they didn't have my size. I scored three pair on this trip. I'm super stoked!

The first pair is sueded hornback caiman with a goat leather shaft. Mega bonus here is that these boots are my second pair in what is becoming my Montana State Bobcats collection - I'm a sucker for anything resembling blue and gold.

The second picture: left, is a tumbled shark. Next to it is a pair of ropers in Lucchese mad dog goat.

@AdamJ you're the best. Thank you.

Here's how I'm thinking about this new pair; black, western-style cut. Or at the very least, accommodating to cowboy boots. No denim weight that I'm targeting. Most seem to come in between 13 to 19 oz, but I'm good with any weight. If I were really pressed, I might trend to something lighter since I'm flush with heavyweights, including three pair of IH. And as for weather, I'm in the Pacific Northwest of the USA. It's not unlike much of England.

The options (all pictured) are what I'm working through:

My standard (the standard?) is the Wrangler 13 MWZ. They offer an accommodating top block and look great with boots, hence the Cowboy Cut moniker. The black MWZ 13 is always an option, but it's not selvage.

[Source: wrangler.com]

Wrangler Blue Bell black. Selvage, similar cut to the 13 MWZ, albeit with a much higher price. Bonus is that it comes in a 34 inseam, so no hemming. Oh, and a leather patch!

[Source: wrangler.com]

Freenote Wilkes Western. I had this noted from a while back. Fits the bill, except the leg opening is narrow at ~8". And the pockets are a bit low on the seat.

[Source: Freenote Cloth]

The ol' AI Machine suggested the Fullcount 1101. They look sweet, and I don't yet own a Fullcount. Issue here is that the inseam stops at 32 inches. Very little is left for stacking.

[Source: Blue Owl Workshop]

Brave Star Mojave. This was the original inspiration... and the usual Brave Star caveats apply. I have one pair of Mojaves, but I get some bucketing with my boots due to the tapered knee. And there's always rolling of the dice with the fit and finish here - I ordered a pair of their Desert Bone Mojave, and I swear it was Skinny Straight with Mojave pockets... I have two pair of True Straights that kind of work, but I don't like the 8-inch opening to wear with cowboy boots. Still, the Mojave remains a strong contender.

[Source: Brave Star Selvage]

Iron Heart 634. While currently available in indigo, I don't think black is currently available. Also a strong contender, albeit with a lower rise.

[Source: IH UK]

Others I considered and aren't quite hitting the mark:

• TCB 50s: much bigger thighs

• Sd'A Regular Straight: similar to the TCBs, big thighs

• Sugar Cane 1947 Straight: I already own two Mister Freemdom pairs that are manufactured by Sugar Cane. I also have a pair of Sugar Cane Okinawa fiber blend. So maybe?

• Iron Heart 1955: Close, but the thighs are bigger than I typically pefer and a bit too much taper, with the hem coming in under 8.5 inches

What else should I consider?

@goosehd thank you. I stumbled across that while looking at a similar pair. Looks to be soon! Very exciting.