Posts made by Bobcat Sig

Blazers and wool shirts?! Much excite

@Anesthetist And now you have me on a hunt for anything Iron Heart wool.

So maybe a return to the OG melton wool vest? A UHF vest would be pretty sweet.

@dirtyframer Holy hell! Those are amazing. WOW!!

It’s timely that this thread popped up again. After jumping back into bicycles earlier this year with an acquisition of a GasGas ECC 5 eMTB, my attention had turned towards a gravel bike - something I can pedal from the house, functions as a city bike or sorts, and gets me out on all the gravel that abound here in the west when I’m not a motorcycle.

I’ve been leaning towards a Specialized Diverge of some flavor, likely with a SRAM components set. I’m doing a bit of work with them this year, which is why they have me attention, but it begs the question - what should one look for in a gravel bike? I know, a wide-ranging question…

@kojimastreets said in Iron Heart Products - What do you think we should make?:

I’d love a western boot cut. Like IH’s take on Wrangler’s 13MWZ, even with the leather patch moved to the same spot on the high pocket. Would cop instantly, starch, and press a seam into those soooo quickly

Dude, YES!! I mentioned that in one of the 634 threads. That would be an absolute dream pair in any denim over 14 oz, preferably heavier; 18, 21, or 25.

Caution on the leather patch relocation. I know that Mister Freedom caught some hell from Wrangler’s parent company for doing something similar with one of their cuts that are very similar to the 13MWZ. In fact, one of Iron Heart’s stockists and collaborator had to photoshop out the patch on a particular pair of pants that they sold on their e-commerce site to avoid the same legal wrath. However, doing so after the fact is absolutely something that could be done. I’d most certainly do something like that.

On the subject of ideas… with autumn nearly upon us, I turn towards pieces that I can layer, of which I’m suspiciously light. In particular, vests in a fabric other than denim.

Fabrics that immediately come to mind:

• sashiko. I know Haraki-San isn’t big on the style or the quality, but I just picked up a pair of S’dA Kaise-dyed pants in a nearly neon indigo. That same fabric in a work, western, or casual vest would be super sharp
• UHF vest, something that can be layered over western denim chambray shirts
• Corduroy. This may be an outlier, but a lined cord vest could be a sweet cool weather piece, be it UHF material or wool
• wool. This doesn’t seem to be a fabric typical of Iron Heart, but maybe a collab with Dehen 1920: their amazing Pendleton wool knit and Iron Heart’s timeless design
• Canvas duck lined with wool or UHF

@Darth-fader Yes, very much agreed. I’m no fan of big social media, and made the choice to unplug from all of that, so I miss out on drops and such.

I suspect Mike drops product like that because it’s easier to announce on IG, and queue up his e-commerce system to drop at the same time, saving him the need to pull together an email, send it, etc.

Where I get hung up isn’t missing drops altogether, after all my only interaction with the brand is via email or in-shpp, it’s when your order is cancelled on check-out. I keep mentioning this but it burned me too much to forgive and forget, despite it seemingly such a small thing. I’ve often thought of selling all of my pieces out of spite. No other brand, of any kind, has me feeling that strongly.

@Darth-fader At the risk of bringing some bad vibes to this thread, I feel you on missing a drop and being bummed out. I like Mike, what he's built, and the fact that he's local to me. Heck, I've ridden dirt bikes with the guy and built trail together. But I'd be lying if I wasn't frustrated at how it works. I've missed on more products of his than I've acquired, actually.

I just don't know if there's a way to make it work to make everyone happy. He's said as much. I even had this first Sashiko shirt cancelled on me while my credit card was processing. It was already purchased! It still bothers me so much that it's turned me off the brand for a while.

@cyclops said in IH-888S-UHR - 21/23oz Ultra Heavy Raw Selvedge Denim High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans:

Yeah i agree with Goosehd here. But only you can judge with the facts/info in front of you. Have a think and go with your gut so to speak. Think about the pros and cons, and whether the risk is worth the reward

What was your measurements of your old comfy 888XHS? How far apart is it to 34.7inches? And then weigh up what others have measured in terms of shrinkage of the waist and just do a bit of maths to see if its too much etc....

I just got my spare size 33 out of storage. It has shrunk down to 33inches after two washes (measured the IH way) from 33.8inches....

My current 888-XHS measure out to just over 34 inches. That's over a half-inch difference, which didn't seem to be a lot on paper, but when tried on, it seems to be a lot. I think the issue is that while these jeans will shrink, the waist will stretch right back out to something that's probably too big. I was hoping (and ignoring the fabric physics of cotton) that wais shrinkage would be permanent.

On your 888 pair, did the shrunken waist measurement of 33 inches remain, even after wearing?

@VegaS10 said in IH-888S-UHR - 21/23oz Ultra Heavy Raw Selvedge Denim High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans:

They should fit properly brand new.

When soaked/washed, they will shrink roughly 1 inch in the waist. With wear, they will stretch out to their "brand new" measurement. They will not stretch past their pre-shrink measurement.

When I ordered my UHFs, I ordered my usual 888 size. When recieved, the waist fit just like all my other pairs. When they shrunk, I had to really struggle to get the upper buttons fastened. After about an hour or so of wear/walking, they were back to their pre-shrink fit and were very comfortable.

If your brand new/dry/not soaked pair is too big now, they will be too big later.

Fair. I was hoping that somehow, the waist shrinkage would be permanent, like the other measurements of the jean. What I'm reading there is that isn't the case.

@cyclops

Thanks for the reminder. I read and re-read this thread while I waited for my pair.

What I learned from that was an inch in the waist (maybe more?) shrink is expected, which would snug these up where I like them. But what I’m also seeing is that the waist will stretch back out to pre-shrink measurement, which I don’t want. Has that been your experience with your pair? Did the waist stretch back out after initial shrink?

These showed up earlier this week. Stoked!

Based on the date stamp, they’ve been sitting on the shelf for two years, but I suspect in short order that they’ll soften up. It was apparent that the break-in will be short. And it will be an investing experience with the burly sole and relatively soft leather uppers.

I look to darkening these things up with some wear.

I’m a bit delayed in updating, but the UHRs arrived Monday to much excitement. However, I had to travel part of this week, so I wasn’t able to open my Christmas-in-September box.

But first, the surprise that was in the box…

I’ve been lusting after these for years, but more on that in the respective thread.

To the hallowed 21/23 oz denim. First impressions are that it’s clear why these are different. Crispy! And long. That 37-inch inseam is no joke.

With the waist on these measuring in at 34.7 inches, it’s clear they’re big. It’s been a minute since I put on a fresh pair of 888-XHS tag 33, so I don’t have an immediate gauge on how it should all drape when they are fresh off the shelf. Overall the UHR is borderline baggy. I know that about a half inch of shrink is expected most everywhere that’s not the waist or inseam. Which, if that’s the case, it would tighten things up nicely.

To the waist, as that’s the biggest concern. They aren’t so big as to slide off while buttoned, but I can fit three fingers perpendicular to my belly or hip between the waistband. On my XHS, it’s two fingers.

My other benchmark was the belt fit, knowing that these will stretch in the waist and that I’m a dedicated belt-wearer. And this was telling; when buckling my favorite belt, there was denim bunched up over my backside.

I’m torn here. On one hand, I’m willing to try for maximum shrinkage here and see if that and belt keeps things tidy. On the other, these might be too big.

I’ll get some fit pics tomorrow so I can get some proper advice from the experts here.

I'm an arc guy. I love that IH found a way to have one on their jeans that doesn't draw the ire of Levi's. I know other Japanese denim makers don't sell pairs with arcs in the US, and that bums me out.

@oltom said in Boot Stretching Experience:

Follow-up question for the boot stretch vets…..have you had any experience with vertically stretching to increase the volume of the toe box? I find that the top of my big toe nail is rubbing against the bottom of the toe cap in my Wesco Guildsman. Thanks!

I'm late to this party, so I hope this is still relevant.

Just like you with the Guildsman (I bought it when it was called The Alex, which is how I usually refer to it), I found the toe box a bit squished. Eventually, it loosened up. It took some time since it's a cap toe, but it got there. Stay with it and keep the boots conditioned.

The eye candy in this thread never disappoints! Not only is there some great inspiration, but seeing Wesco boots worn - and worn hard - is pretty dang cool.

One of my Derroll recrafts that I found on the secondary market last year went back to Wesco HQ last week. The left boot had a weirdly flat instep. Chris offered to add some leather buildup to the appropriate last and let that boot sit in an effort to stretch it out and accommodate my high instep. I'm anxious to see of we can make them work, especially after seeing all the pictures here of the roughout leather.

I also have another pair of Wesco boots showing up today... but lips are sealed until they are in my hands. Super stoked on these...

@goosehd said in IH-888S-UHR - 21/23oz Ultra Heavy Raw Selvedge Denim High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans:

@Bobcat-Sig for everyone, I guess that would be all across the board. I personally like none, but don’t want it to cut into my waist. If I can slide a pair of jeans off without unbuttoning them, they are way too large for my tastes. I have also found that if they are too big in the waist, they are generally too big overall and have a sloppy appearance.

That’s me and my $.02 though…

I appreciate it, @goosehd
I await the jeans. They should arrive Monday.

Regarding the big waist, I’m fortunate in that department in that a lifetime of skiing, hiking, bicycling, and mountain biking have given me a proper backside. A pair of jeans would need to quite large for me to slide them off without unbuttoning. We’re talking a half inch here, maybe an inch, in the pair that’s inbound.

As to the measurements elsewhere, the specs are maybe .1 or .2 inches larger. But we’ll see how they fit when they arrive.

@cyclops said in IH-888S-UHR - 21/23oz Ultra Heavy Raw Selvedge Denim High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans:

@Bobcat-Sig what is the measurements currently to your 888XHS? If you are comfy now thats sort of would be a good benchmark to start. And then compare that to 34.7 inches to gauge if you think it will be too big/small....

I re-measured a few pairs, including two Iron Hearts. The 888, when measure the IH way, are a bit over 34 inches. I have a pair of N&F in a weird guy cut that measure out to 35 inches, which is fine, if a bit wider in the waist than I’d like.

So by those measurements, I’m on the big side of what I like by about a half inch. However, I think I’ve tried to convince myself that there’s enough shrinkage in these pairs. Which, might be a bit of wishful thinking. Still, I’m going to give them a go. They arrive Monday.

I appreciate everyone chiming in. It’s been super cool to dive deep on stuff like this. I mean, who knew that such detail could be discussed with like minded aficionados.

I’ll be back with an update on Monday. In the meantime, the waiting game continues !

@Sunnergren Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it. A little encouragement is always good. I also realize the irony of obsessing over measurements and specs of denim - a fabric meant to be used, abused, and faded.

Much like we say when chasing set up on motorcycles; “How about you ride the bike?” Same here: I should try these on first. I’m probably fussing too much over excess material in the waist, but I’m a fervent belt-wearer.

Putting aside measurements, what do the Iron Heart faithful like to see waist in feel when first trying on these jeans; two finger width? Three?

Sometimes, you put it out in the universe and it happens. I lobbed a restock notification on these beasts after the announcement that the fabric is no more, thinking I would never get a pair.

Sure enough, the fine folks at IH UK reached out with the good news that they had a pair of tag 34 show up at the shop. I hardly believed it, reading the email.

But here’s the rub; I’m concerned that they might be a wee bit bigger than I’d prefer. In the 888-XHS, I’m a comfortable tag 33. In the 633-SBG 21 oz, a tight tag 34. When measuring these pairs and others the IH way, I seem to fit best in a waist around 34 inches. The UHR that’s coming is on the big side at 34.7 inches, raw. Dare I say girthy?

I know shrink is expected and I also know that the waist is likely to stretch back out to pre-shrink dimensions. And therein lies my concern. However, if the rest of the measurements shrink as expected, the jeans should fit well.

The IH UK crew have been great about this, trading a few emails with me, as I faffed over measurements. Shout out to Shaun and James! I’ve read the entirety of this thread.

Because this denim isn’t coming back, and because I’ve never owned a pair of UHR, I jumped at the chance to give these a go. So I ask; am I headed for disappointment with the big waist? Or do I go for maximum hot soak, wash, and medium tumble dry? And YOLO this pair and embrace the extra waist room?

said in IGW-503 - Ignition Works Logo Thermal Crew Neck Long Sleeved Top:

I love a good thermal, especially one that's 100% cotton. I saw mention of shrinkage with these. Is that the case? If so, how much can I expect? I'm guessing not much, if any. And if by that, it would seem that these are true to western sizing vs what we see with Japanese sizing. Is that assumption safe?

Scratch all that. Pulled some tape on a few thermals I own, and while the rest of the shirt might fit, the sleeves are two to three inches shorter than the other shirts.

So, disregard.

I love a good thermal, especially one that's 100% cotton. I saw mention of shrinkage with these. Is that the case? If so, how much can I expect? I'm guessing not much, if any. And if by that, it would seem that these are true to western sizing vs what we see with Japanese sizing. Is that assumption safe?

@popvulture Much appreciated. As I've continued down this rabbit hole of Japanese denim and its orbit, I'll admit to being too wrapped up in sizing. With tops that fit sizes anywhere from M up to XL, it can get twisted.

The Stanley is fairly lightweight, yes? MF doesn't list a fabric weight.