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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    There's no Such Thing as a Stupid Question

    Some Really Boring (but useful) and Some Really Interesting Stuff!
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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      @Bill C The gospel according to Haraki:

      There are 3 types of sewing for inner seam:

      • interlock (overlock and chain stitch at one time)
      • interlock, fold one side then lock stitch over the interlock (which IH does)
      • felled seam

      Actually, a felled seam is one of the easiest ways if the operator gets used to it. But the crotch area will be also felled and it becomes very thick. It requires techniques and power. Also, the curve of the inner line for the front panel and the back panel has to be identical. If not, it’s hard to fell evenly and steady. If the trousers are not a work pants silhouette, it’s difficult.

      Brands like Lee are good at work pants, a brand like Wrangler, their denim is broken twill so is soft, they tend to use felled seam for the inner seam. I guess it’s also related to what type of sewing machines they have.

      At IH, we have lots of models (silhouettes) and heavy denim, lockstitch over interlock is suitable.

      This is what I guess.

      The truth might be, that Lee and Wrangler  probably didn’t want to imitate Levi’s which started ahead.

      HARAKI

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • neph93N
        neph93
        見習いボス
        Joined:

        ^ Love it. This kind of thing from the Boss makes me go starry eyed and soft in the centre.

        «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
        We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

        • Dame Vera Lynn
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • GilesG
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined:

          100% agree, it's golden…..

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Bill CB
            Bill C
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined:

            @Giles:

            100% agree, it's golden…..

            Thanks @Giles - that’s super informative - much appreciated!  …. and sincere thanks for Haraki-san’s input on this 🙂

            Bill

            Profile pic “The Gosport Queen”

            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • KasiK
              Kasi
              見習いボス
              Joined:

              Nice…

              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

              The world's insane
              While you drink champagne
              And I'm livin' in black rain 4Q 🖕

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • OaktaviaO
                Oaktavia
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                Does anyone use a little bit of bleach when washing denim? Like after desired fade marks are present, to whiten up the white areas? I have read about this somewhere online but can't seem to remember where.

                I have one IHSH that is faded nice and vintagey but the white area look a little dull and could use some brightening up, but only if it would not ruin the integrity of the fabric.

                IG: electricindigowizard

                "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                WTB: IHJ-32 - XL/XXL

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • neph93N
                  neph93
                  見習いボス
                  Joined:

                  Bleach is always going to damage cotton a little, but small amounts shouldn’t matter.

                  To be on the safe side you can add Vanish to the wash, or use washing detergent specifically for whites, instead of raw bleach.

                  «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                  We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                  • Dame Vera Lynn
                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • OaktaviaO
                    Oaktavia
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    Oh okay cool that make sense. Thanks Reuben!

                    IG: electricindigowizard

                    "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                    WTB: IHJ-32 - XL/XXL

                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • J
                      Jett129
                      見習いボス
                      Joined:

                      @Oaktavia This should help you as well,and is color safe.

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • NikN
                        Nik
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined:

                        I put a small amount of bleach into the washing machine to lighten a pair of 21oz OD, and they are light blue now and the fabric is still soft and solid

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • OaktaviaO
                          Oaktavia
                          見習いボス
                          Joined:

                          Thanks for the answers gents!

                          IG: electricindigowizard

                          "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                          WTB: IHJ-32 - XL/XXL

                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • Daniel SanD
                            Daniel San
                            見習いボス
                            Joined:

                            Very interesting 🤔
                            How much is a little bit or a small amount?

                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • NikN
                              Nik
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              Joined:

                              50ml at first, then did it again with 100ml, and was happy so stopped there.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • MattM
                                Matt
                                見習いボス
                                Joined:

                                Am I losing it or is anyone else missing the product threads.  I’m sure it’s just down for maintenance or something but I didn’t notice anyone else talking about it today so I figured I’d ask.  Sorry if I missed the notice elsewhere.

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  Jett129
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined:

                                  I can see them.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • MattM
                                    Matt
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    This is all I have…

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • MattM
                                      Matt
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined:

                                      Never mind.  I see now that it’s minimized.  I guess this was the right thread after all.  😃

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Paul9221P
                                        Paul9221
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined:

                                        Matt's testing the title of this thread [emoji14]

                                        Blanket-line all the things!!!

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • MattM
                                          Matt
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          😉

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • GilesG
                                            Giles
                                            IHUK Crew
                                            Joined:

                                            @Paul9221:

                                            Matt's testing pushing the title of this thread [emoji14]

                                            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                            last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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