Reddit - Ask me Anything (AMA)
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Ah, here's the announcement, pinned to the rawdenim subreddit. I can tell the moderator is very excited by his comments, this is terrific.
http://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1uzt02/psa_giles_padmore_from_iron_heart_will_be_doing/
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This is a correct assumption, and membership isn't required in order to do so. I or someone else will undoubtedly post a link to the AMA when it is live.
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i might peek in on my lunch hour at work…
so pumped about this! my 2 denim families coming together
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Here we go:
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What a surprise cone of questions.
And so many answers:
"With most denims we weave, we lose a known percentage to 2nd and 3rd quality. With our 25oz, we lose a completely unknown percentage, it varies between 15% and 75%. Because the denim is so tough, the looms sometimes (and we still don't know exactly why) just grind to a halt. When we restart, the next 1" of denim is junk, as the loom is getting up to speed. If we get junk every 2 feet, we can't make a single pair of jeans out of that bolt….
Every single inch of our denim is viewed by a QC person as it is drawn over a strong light source, this allows us to see any imperfections in the weave. Unfortunately the operatives are human and sometimes miss a fault, this section of denim then gets made into a pair of jeans and obviously they have a fault in them. We do normally spot these lemons when QCing in Hachioji before labels are applied, but even the people in QC Hachioji are human and so occasionally miss one of these faults.
I reckon in the 8 years I have been working with Haraki, I have seen 20 pairs of bad jeans……"Hats off to you.
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Giles killed that AMA, someone said it was one of the most informative that they've had and I'm inclined to agree. Giles got into manufacture and went beyond the "what cut is right for me" kind of stuff that often occupies a lot of the AMAs.
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real good stuff.
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That was a good read. Thanks
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This was really informative, the turnover on the 25oz
How the hell do you find profits in that? Makes me appreciate the cranky bastards that much more. The variables I was unaware of and details G covered (thread detail and count, man knows his stuff) were impressive both because he just fired it off, and because the audience seemed to care about it as it was laid out. Thanks for taking the time Giles, I learned something from it all, and that will bring me back every time.
