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New Iron Heart Website - Live Now - Feedback and Bug Report Here Please!

Reddit - Ask me Anything (AMA)

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  • F
    Friday
    Joined: 27 Mar 2012

    All the best G-San. Most definitely a good thing all around for the business and also the brand as a whole.

    Tough, heavy and ready! = IRON HEART

    ~Shinici Haraki~

    last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 17:10 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • D
      davito
      Joined: 27 Oct 2011

      Good luck G, interesting

      Cheers,
      David

      last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 22:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • I
        irishexpat
        Joined: 1 Nov 2013

        i might peek in on my lunch hour at work…

        so pumped about this! my 2 denim families coming together

        Iron Heart, Empty Wallet

        last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 23:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          Here we go:

          http://redd.it/1v4988

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 17:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • A
            Aetas
            見習いボス
            Joined: 19 Jun 2013

            What a surprise cone of questions.

            And so many answers:
            "With most denims we weave, we lose a known percentage to 2nd and 3rd quality. With our 25oz, we lose a completely unknown percentage, it varies between 15% and 75%. Because the denim is so tough, the looms sometimes (and we still don't know exactly why) just grind to a halt. When we restart, the next 1" of denim is junk, as the loom is getting up to speed. If we get junk every 2 feet, we can't make a single pair of jeans out of that bolt….
            Every single inch of our denim is viewed by a QC person as it is drawn over a strong light source, this allows us to see any imperfections in the weave. Unfortunately the operatives are human and sometimes miss a fault, this section of denim then gets made into a pair of jeans and obviously they have a fault in them. We do normally spot these lemons when QCing in Hachioji before labels are applied, but even the people in QC Hachioji are human and so occasionally miss one of these faults.
            I reckon in the 8 years I have been working with Haraki, I have seen 20 pairs of bad jeans……"

            Hats off to you.

            last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 21:09 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • S
              Seul
              Joined: 24 Nov 2009

              G - hang in there… I'll read up on your answers tomorrow with some tea  😉

              last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 21:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • G
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                Thanks Seul….

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 21:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • S
                  simonc
                  Banned
                  Joined: 28 Nov 2010

                  Well that all went very well I thought.

                  last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 22:09 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • M
                    mclaincausey
                    見習いボス
                    Joined: 12 Apr 2013

                    Giles killed that AMA, someone said it was one of the most informative that they've had and I'm inclined to agree. Giles got into manufacture and went beyond the "what cut is right for me" kind of stuff that often occupies a lot of the AMAs.

                    Think it, be it.

                    last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 23:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • I
                      irishexpat
                      Joined: 1 Nov 2013

                      real good stuff.

                      Iron Heart, Empty Wallet

                      last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 23:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • B
                        beautiful_FrEaK
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined: 15 Jun 2010

                        That was a good read. Thanks

                        last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 08:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • G
                          Giles
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                          Thanks guys….

                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                          last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 09:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • S
                            Snowy
                            Joined: 15 Jun 2012

                            That was a great read. Some good questions and good answers. Thanks for doing it.

                            last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 09:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • J
                              jdl1279
                              Joined: 3 Jan 2014

                              This was really informative, the turnover on the 25oz 😞 How the hell do you find profits in that? Makes me appreciate the cranky bastards that much more. The variables I was unaware of and details G covered (thread detail and count, man knows his stuff) were impressive both because he just fired it off, and because the audience seemed to care about it as it was laid out. Thanks for taking the time Giles, I learned something from it all, and that will bring me back every time.

                              Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                              last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • G
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                Yep, last but one time we ran a weave of the 25oz, we bought back USD12,000 of 2nd and 3rd rate fabric from the mill…....

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:40 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  jdl1279
                                  Joined: 3 Jan 2014

                                  Wow, that's gotta make folks buying from Japan sting all the more (sorry knowing as I do now I would have dug deeper, promise you'll get the balance in the long run). Do you know with all of that where you end up per pair? Sorry I can be off, profit margins and debt footprints interest me.

                                  Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                                  last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • S
                                    Seul
                                    Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                                    Your praise and kind words for Haraki-san (and vice versa) is touching  🙂 Made for a great read, G!..

                                    last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:58 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • D
                                      davito
                                      Joined: 27 Oct 2011

                                      Well done G great insights like always. Thanks

                                      Cheers,
                                      David

                                      last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 11:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • G
                                        Giles
                                        IHUK Crew
                                        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                        @jdl1279:

                                        Wow, that's gotta make folks buying from Japan sting all the more (sorry knowing as I do now I would have dug deeper, promise you'll get the balance in the long run). Do you know with all of that where you end up per pair? Sorry I can be off, profit margins and debt footprints interest me.

                                        We work on the basis that we do not need to make the same margin off everything we sell.  Margins on silver, leather and the 25oz are awful.  If that was all we sold, we'd go bust.  But we strive for an average margin that is acceptable, so yes, we make more on some items (the IH-634S being a prime example - we make so many of them our costs are reasonably low)…...

                                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                        last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 11:20 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • J
                                          jdl1279
                                          Joined: 3 Jan 2014

                                          I am glad there is some room for you after the trials of production. I understand no two things in any business carry the same margins, I have also been in the position where trouble jobs make your end barely worth the effort. The determination to get through the issues, even with a smaller margin, and then continue to expand the offerings in the difficult area is what impresses me. You have to bust your ass to make that work, tons of respect for it.

                                          Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                                          last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 11:50 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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