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New Iron Heart Website - Live Now - Feedback and Bug Report Here Please!

Reddit - Ask me Anything (AMA)

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  • S
    seanocono
    Joined: 17 Oct 2012

    Thanks for making it easy, MCL.

    last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 05:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • S
      seawolf
      Mod Squad
      Joined: 28 Oct 2011

      Good luck G! Should be interesting.

      “Good design is actually a lot harder to notice than poor design, in part because good designs fit our needs so well that the design is invisible” - Don Norman

      @zeebeeleather

      last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 10:05 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • F
        Friday
        Joined: 27 Mar 2012

        All the best G-San. Most definitely a good thing all around for the business and also the brand as a whole.

        Tough, heavy and ready! = IRON HEART

        ~Shinici Haraki~

        last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 17:10 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • D
          davito
          Joined: 27 Oct 2011

          Good luck G, interesting

          Cheers,
          David

          last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 22:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • I
            irishexpat
            Joined: 1 Nov 2013

            i might peek in on my lunch hour at work…

            so pumped about this! my 2 denim families coming together

            Iron Heart, Empty Wallet

            last edited by 12 Jan 2014, 23:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • G
              Giles
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

              Here we go:

              http://redd.it/1v4988

              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

              last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 17:15 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • A
                Aetas
                見習いボス
                Joined: 19 Jun 2013

                What a surprise cone of questions.

                And so many answers:
                "With most denims we weave, we lose a known percentage to 2nd and 3rd quality. With our 25oz, we lose a completely unknown percentage, it varies between 15% and 75%. Because the denim is so tough, the looms sometimes (and we still don't know exactly why) just grind to a halt. When we restart, the next 1" of denim is junk, as the loom is getting up to speed. If we get junk every 2 feet, we can't make a single pair of jeans out of that bolt….
                Every single inch of our denim is viewed by a QC person as it is drawn over a strong light source, this allows us to see any imperfections in the weave. Unfortunately the operatives are human and sometimes miss a fault, this section of denim then gets made into a pair of jeans and obviously they have a fault in them. We do normally spot these lemons when QCing in Hachioji before labels are applied, but even the people in QC Hachioji are human and so occasionally miss one of these faults.
                I reckon in the 8 years I have been working with Haraki, I have seen 20 pairs of bad jeans……"

                Hats off to you.

                last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 21:09 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • S
                  Seul
                  Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                  G - hang in there… I'll read up on your answers tomorrow with some tea  😉

                  last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 21:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • G
                    Giles
                    IHUK Crew
                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                    Thanks Seul….

                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                    last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 21:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • S
                      simonc
                      Banned
                      Joined: 28 Nov 2010

                      Well that all went very well I thought.

                      last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 22:09 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • M
                        mclaincausey
                        見習いボス
                        Joined: 12 Apr 2013

                        Giles killed that AMA, someone said it was one of the most informative that they've had and I'm inclined to agree. Giles got into manufacture and went beyond the "what cut is right for me" kind of stuff that often occupies a lot of the AMAs.

                        Think it, be it.

                        last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 23:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • I
                          irishexpat
                          Joined: 1 Nov 2013

                          real good stuff.

                          Iron Heart, Empty Wallet

                          last edited by 13 Jan 2014, 23:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • B
                            beautiful_FrEaK
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined: 15 Jun 2010

                            That was a good read. Thanks

                            last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 08:59 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • G
                              Giles
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                              Thanks guys….

                              "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                              last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 09:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • S
                                Snowy
                                Joined: 15 Jun 2012

                                That was a great read. Some good questions and good answers. Thanks for doing it.

                                last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 09:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  jdl1279
                                  Joined: 3 Jan 2014

                                  This was really informative, the turnover on the 25oz 😞 How the hell do you find profits in that? Makes me appreciate the cranky bastards that much more. The variables I was unaware of and details G covered (thread detail and count, man knows his stuff) were impressive both because he just fired it off, and because the audience seemed to care about it as it was laid out. Thanks for taking the time Giles, I learned something from it all, and that will bring me back every time.

                                  Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                                  last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:35 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • G
                                    Giles
                                    IHUK Crew
                                    Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                    Yep, last but one time we ran a weave of the 25oz, we bought back USD12,000 of 2nd and 3rd rate fabric from the mill…....

                                    "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                    last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:40 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • J
                                      jdl1279
                                      Joined: 3 Jan 2014

                                      Wow, that's gotta make folks buying from Japan sting all the more (sorry knowing as I do now I would have dug deeper, promise you'll get the balance in the long run). Do you know with all of that where you end up per pair? Sorry I can be off, profit margins and debt footprints interest me.

                                      Bourbon: because living in Kentucky just makes you want to drink

                                      last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • S
                                        Seul
                                        Joined: 24 Nov 2009

                                        Your praise and kind words for Haraki-san (and vice versa) is touching  🙂 Made for a great read, G!..

                                        last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 10:58 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • D
                                          davito
                                          Joined: 27 Oct 2011

                                          Well done G great insights like always. Thanks

                                          Cheers,
                                          David

                                          last edited by 14 Jan 2014, 11:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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