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    Iron Heart - Coveted - The Wall Street Journal

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      And if you look in the Japan visits thread in Trips and Travel, there will plenty of photos of visits to mills….

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
      • MizmazzleM
        Mizmazzle
        見習いボス
        @Giles
        Joined:

        @Giles nice! Thanks for sharing all that. In my imagination I always conjure up images of old, Japanese men and women dressed in hand woven robes laboring over old, wooden looms, tirelessly pulling the bar back and forth, weaving them denim. While I know this is unrealistic fantasy in this day and age, I love the idea nonetheless.

        I did a bunch of reading on Kurabo Mills and learned what a gigantic and diversified corporation they are. With ventures in biotech, pharmaceutical, biomass power plants, and so much more. It sort of completely dashed my old world “mom and pop” handmade textile imagery.

        In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
        • northsouthdenimguyN
          northsouthdenimguy
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          Maybe this is common knowledge and I just missed it, but do you/Haraki have any ownership or investment in the mills that produce your fabrics? Or are they all independent partners?

          @selveldgesteps

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            Independent

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by northsouthdenimguyN 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • S
              Slash
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              Didn't know Levi was in the high-end Japanese denim.
              Looking at their offer, I fail to understand the appeal for 12oz denim priced at 295$...
              Monopolizing the mills for that is a scandal 😛

              last edited by W 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
              • northsouthdenimguyN
                northsouthdenimguy
                啓蒙家
                @Giles
                Joined:

                @Giles

                That’s what I thought. As a small business owner, my gut says owning a mill would be one of the last things I’d want to sink millions of dollars into. Seems like you’d have to keep it running at a massive scale and probably make products for a lot more than just the Iron Heart community to make the numbers work.

                @selveldgesteps

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • W
                  will6er
                  The Unwoven
                  @Slash
                  Joined:

                  @Slash A "non demim" person was talking to me about Levis Blue Tab. They are advertising is as Japan made and the Japan made is expensive but the collection is probably 10-15% Japan made, similar Japan made denim made up china, rest china / cheap location. I guess they are taking a lot of capacity but there isn't enough for the whole collection.

                  TLDR - Blue label looked to me that they are marking up on the perception of a premium product from premium locations but mostly it isn't.

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • S
                    Slash
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    The ones I looked up were the "vintage" ones where it's stated its "12oz red line selvedge denim".
                    For the "Blue tab" ones (priced 250$) nothing is mentioned at all, which is probably like you say because its not that noteworthy, to say the least 😃

                    405$ for a trucker jacket with non provided denim weight, provenance, or nice details, except the global "made in Japan" ! 😕

                    Please M. Levi, make some room for the real deal 😃

                    last edited by Slash goosehdG 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                    • goosehdG
                      goosehd
                      Mod Squad
                      @Slash
                      Joined:

                      @Slash Just like every other fad before (Rolex’s and other higher end watches, Custom Knives (or production knives pretending to be custom), Sneakers, etc.) the denim thing will fade with time and everything will return to normal. Blame the flippers or what not, but I hate the game and wish people only bought what they truly wanted instead of trying to make a quick buck.

                      “our policy of no discussions regarding politics, religion, asparagus, and other controversial issues.” - Andrew

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
                      • wjwW
                        wjw
                        Haraki san Expert
                        Joined:

                        Levis also has terrible sizing info. Not good enough for me to want to try their better quality stuff

                        777S-21 |777SST | 634S-142ib-c | 634XHS | 634UHR | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-130-GB | IHSH-337 | IHSH-422

                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                        • jimcordJ
                          jimcord
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined:

                          Giles/Alex, with your long standing relationship with Haraki-san and Iron Heart both personal and professional, what Japanese cultural attitudes or behaviors would you say have changed or been implemented into your way of thinking and life? Do you think your British behaviors or mannerisms have changed Haraki as well?

                          last edited by AlexA 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 7
                          • AlexA
                            Alex
                            IHUK Crew
                            @jimcord
                            Joined:

                            @jimcord that's a tough one - I probably have adopted a few things subconsciously, but im not sure what they are. I try to put myself in the headspace of our Japanese colleagues when communicating with them, which I think helps ease communication and minimise clashes. I am not sure Haraki has adoped much of the british/western way of thinking, but his openess to listen to us is in itself quite unusual.

                            last edited by jimcordJ 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 6
                            • jimcordJ
                              jimcord
                              Raw and Unwashed
                              @Alex
                              Joined:

                              @Alex thank you for your response. I guess with Iron Heart being his brand and vision and it’s success, one does not have to easily bend often, but glad to hear that he does to the Padmore team on occasion. I respect and admire the success IH has garnered with such a unique east/west partnership.

                              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • GilesG
                                Giles
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                @jimcord Sorry to be tardy in responding....

                                I'm not sure that much has changed to me as a general personality shift, but I am much more aware now, of how to behave when in Japan to lessen intercultural tension/misunderstandings. I also find myself constructing sentences in English in a way that I have observed Japanese constructing sentences when they speak English.

                                When Haraki is over here, he needs to go home having eaten at least, Scones, clotted cream and jam, a Sunday roast, fish and chips and, as a bonus point, a decent beefburger.....

                                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 9
                                • RocknRollR
                                  RocknRoll
                                  Joined:

                                  I fully endorse Haraki’s dietry “requirements”!

                                  Sporadic visitor.

                                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                  • jimcordJ
                                    jimcord
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined:

                                    Giles, it sounds as if you are plotting a haraki-san game of thrones takeover by means of a heart attack! Lol
                                    I still remember the advice you gave me in Los Angeles when I told you about the customer service issue I had with Momotaro, in case you don’t remember, you said you would wish you had known me sooner so you could’ve helped me craft my communication with them better to avoid the misunderstandings that took place. I took that advice to Heart in every communication I have had since with any Japanese company., trying to be aware of how tone and words can be misconstrued in translation. I appreciated the advice then, and I still appreciate it now. Thank you.

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                    • GilesG
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined:

                                      Thank you....

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • MizmazzleM
                                        Mizmazzle
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined:

                                        @Alex @Giles

                                        With the future of the UHR denim in a state of uncertainty, are there any more runs scheduled for production/ release that might have been initiated with denim that was completed before the passing of the wife from that mill?

                                        In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                        • GilesG
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined:

                                          Nope

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • MizmazzleM
                                            Mizmazzle
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            Guess that’s the way things go sometimes

                                            In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                            last edited by Mizmazzle 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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