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    Fall/Winter 2026 - Collection Preview Now Live

    Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

    The Resource Centre
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    • GilesG
      Giles
      IHUK Crew
      Joined:

      And if you look in the Japan visits thread in Trips and Travel, there will plenty of photos of visits to mills….

      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • MizmazzleM
        Mizmazzle
        見習いボス
        @Giles
        Joined:

        @Giles nice! Thanks for sharing all that. In my imagination I always conjure up images of old, Japanese men and women dressed in hand woven robes laboring over old, wooden looms, tirelessly pulling the bar back and forth, weaving them denim. While I know this is unrealistic fantasy in this day and age, I love the idea nonetheless.

        I did a bunch of reading on Kurabo Mills and learned what a gigantic and diversified corporation they are. With ventures in biotech, pharmaceutical, biomass power plants, and so much more. It sort of completely dashed my old world “mom and pop” handmade textile imagery.

        In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
        • northsouthdenimguyN
          northsouthdenimguy
          啓蒙家
          Joined:

          Maybe this is common knowledge and I just missed it, but do you/Haraki have any ownership or investment in the mills that produce your fabrics? Or are they all independent partners?

          @selveldgesteps

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • GilesG
            Giles
            IHUK Crew
            Joined:

            Independent

            "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

            last edited by northsouthdenimguyN 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • S
              Slash
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              Didn't know Levi was in the high-end Japanese denim.
              Looking at their offer, I fail to understand the appeal for 12oz denim priced at 295$...
              Monopolizing the mills for that is a scandal 😛

              last edited by W 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • northsouthdenimguyN
                northsouthdenimguy
                啓蒙家
                @Giles
                Joined:

                @Giles

                That’s what I thought. As a small business owner, my gut says owning a mill would be one of the last things I’d want to sink millions of dollars into. Seems like you’d have to keep it running at a massive scale and probably make products for a lot more than just the Iron Heart community to make the numbers work.

                @selveldgesteps

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • W
                  will6er
                  The Unwoven
                  @Slash
                  Joined:

                  @Slash A "non demim" person was talking to me about Levis Blue Tab. They are advertising is as Japan made and the Japan made is expensive but the collection is probably 10-15% Japan made, similar Japan made denim made up china, rest china / cheap location. I guess they are taking a lot of capacity but there isn't enough for the whole collection.

                  TLDR - Blue label looked to me that they are marking up on the perception of a premium product from premium locations but mostly it isn't.

                  last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • S
                    Slash
                    Raw and Unwashed
                    Joined:

                    The ones I looked up were the "vintage" ones where it's stated its "12oz red line selvedge denim".
                    For the "Blue tab" ones (priced 250$) nothing is mentioned at all, which is probably like you say because its not that noteworthy, to say the least 😃

                    405$ for a trucker jacket with non provided denim weight, provenance, or nice details, except the global "made in Japan" ! 😕

                    Please M. Levi, make some room for the real deal 😃

                    last edited by Slash goosehdG 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • goosehdG
                      goosehd
                      Mod Squad
                      @Slash
                      Joined:

                      @Slash Just like every other fad before (Rolex’s and other higher end watches, Custom Knives (or production knives pretending to be custom), Sneakers, etc.) the denim thing will fade with time and everything will return to normal. Blame the flippers or what not, but I hate the game and wish people only bought what they truly wanted instead of trying to make a quick buck.

                      “our policy of no discussions regarding politics, religion, asparagus, and other controversial issues.” - Andrew

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                      • wjwW
                        wjw
                        Haraki san Expert
                        Joined:

                        Levis also has terrible sizing info. Not good enough for me to want to try their better quality stuff

                        777S-21 |777SST | 634S-ib-c | 634XHS | 634UHR | IHSH-293-OD | IHSH-130-GB | IHSH-337 | IHSH-422

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