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    Conflicted and could use some advice

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    • hello_4lexH
      hello_4lex
      Haraki san Student
      @NickD
      Joined:

      @NickD thank you! Unfortunate that it took a tragic moment to spark that motivation in me, but I’m still proud of the progress. I agree to some degree that I’m likely overthinking, (likely some level of dysmorphia following the weight loss) but I just want to look spiffy in my nice jeans!! Might as well keep them going and maybe once that new relaxed straight cut releases I can pick those up to see if they fit the bill better. Got a few months of cold up ahead so time to put the work into these 21 ounces

      Currently wearing:
      IH-634s-21
      IH-634s-142
      Full Count 0105w
      Samurai S510xx 19oz ii

      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
      • louisboscoL
        louisbosco
        啓蒙家
        @hello_4lex
        Joined:

        @hello_4lex I do find that washing it helps soften the fabric. That goes for my 21/23 raw, 25 and 17slubs..

        But of course, 40 wears in is still relatively new. Wearing it and washing as you go few months at a time will definitely help the fabric settle in due course..

        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

        • Harvey Specter
        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
        • Bobcat SigB
          Bobcat Sig
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          We may have similar body types. Me from a lifetime of skiing, hiking, and riding sportbikes. So like you, I've struggled to find cuts that accommodate muscular thighs and still have room for proper glutes. For Iron Heart, this means the 888 and the 634, and the 633 from Self Edge. I get a similar drape in the front like you do, with much of it due to both the stiff and thick nature of the fabric and due to the extra burly construction of the button fly. Even my heavy Naked & Famous Weird Guy jeans do this. Seems par for the course.

          And like you, I also overthink these things. A lot. The pictures you posted look good. Keep wearing 'em in. The advice here has been great.

          Sorry to hear about the tragedy. And glad to hear that you used it to lose some weight.

          Safety third

          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
          • popvultureP
            popvulture
            見習いボス
            Joined:

            The "diaper effect," as some people call it, is a common thing that I and others have experienced from a pair of 634s that's a bit too big. For what it's worth, it also happens to me with some other styles of denim, namely regular fit jeans with a high waist, which I often can't get to work no matter what size I get.

            The 21oz stretches a lot, so I'd try getting a pair that feels a bit snug when you first buy them. Obviously you don't want them to be tight to the point of being uncomfortable, but I've found that for me at least, this lessens the likelihood of the bunching. If I were you, I'd size down. On the bright side, IH stuff is fairly easy to sell at a decent price, especially on here. Unfortunately I feel like having to take a loss is an occasional occupational hazard with selvedge denim, no matter what brand. With time though, you tend to get a little better at nailing it on the first go-round. That said, even a hopeless addict like myself still gets it wrong sometimes.

            WTB
            IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
            Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

            last edited by hello_4lexH 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
            • hello_4lexH
              hello_4lex
              Haraki san Student
              @popvulture
              Joined:

              @popvulture appreciate the experience based insight— unfortunately I don’t think I’d be able to size down. The rise already being under 11 inches at this size makes it tough, and obviously the thigh concern. From what I’ve gathered in my time browsing various denim, the consensus is that thighs don’t or don’t significantly stretch over the course of a pair of jean’s lifetime— luckily when I ordered these the IH team found a pair with a slightly more snug waist (33.8”) and larger thighs (13.6”). I’m looking to avoid any fits that are particularly slim on me, and even with the 634 being generally seen as a roomy straight, for my particular dimensions I feel as though they come off fairly slim (minus the bulging front). The difficulty comes in when I sit in these, as mentioned my thighs flatten and fill the legs quite easily, and my backside seems to “widen” so the seat is actually filled out when sitting. Already taken quite a few losses early on in this hobby, so I know how it goes, but unfortunately IH seems to be out of stock in any similar sizes in these at the moment 🤷‍♂️. Hoping they release the new relaxed straight soon, those seem like they’d work a little better for me down the line.

              Currently wearing:
              IH-634s-21
              IH-634s-142
              Full Count 0105w
              Samurai S510xx 19oz ii

              last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • popvultureP
                popvulture
                見習いボス
                Joined:

                Ahh. I'm surprised the rise is that low. I didn't see you mention what size yours are, but I guessed roughly a 34 based on your waist and thigh. For future reference, you can email IH when you place an order and they can look for a pair with specific measurements, since there can be a good bit of variation — I do this all the time. But that aside, it does sound like maybe the 634 isn't your cut.

                I wouldn't rule out the 888. As far back as I can remember, it's been mentioned as a fave for lifters due to the roomy thigh. Plus the top block is very comfortable, and it'd address rise concerns.

                It does suck that IH stuff is frequently out of stock, but it's just sort of the nature of the small-batch production, the volume Japan can produce, etc.

                WTB
                IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
                Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
                • jiminstitchesJ
                  jiminstitches
                  Haraki san Prodigy
                  Joined:

                  @hello_4lex if you had not said anything I would of just commented how great these look. I think a bit of overthinking perhaps which I am extremely guilty of myself, the higher the price tag the more we tend to be paranoid. I’m quite short and have cyclist thighs, I can wear all cuts except the 666 the top block is just to tight for my glutes, for comfort the 888 whilst keeping the slim Silhouette.

                  last edited by jiminstitches 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
                  • steelworkerS
                    steelworker
                    見習いボス
                    Joined:

                    The problem is the cut. try 666 or 888

                    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                    Well, I have others.

                    last edited by hello_4lexH 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • hello_4lexH
                      hello_4lex
                      Haraki san Student
                      @steelworker
                      Joined:

                      @steelworker based on size charts neither would accommodate my thighs without oversizing the waist

                      Currently wearing:
                      IH-634s-21
                      IH-634s-142
                      Full Count 0105w
                      Samurai S510xx 19oz ii

                      last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • steelworkerS
                        steelworker
                        見習いボス
                        Joined:

                        Lifter? You might be out of luck

                        Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                        Well, I have others.

                        last edited by steelworker 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • XavrasX
                          Xavras
                          The Unwoven
                          Joined:

                          Yeah, best bet for a lifter is either 1955 or waiting for the relaxed straight. 888s fit pretty slim on me (moreso in the calves).

                          last edited by hello_4lexH 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • hello_4lexH
                            hello_4lex
                            Haraki san Student
                            @Xavras
                            Joined:

                            @Xavras non-lifter, just genetically large quad and calf muscles. A blessing and a curse as a descendent of Polish farming families. Arguably an “athletic” build (although I’m in no way in shape anymore, just leaner than I was the past few years when I was 60 pounds heavier).

                            Currently wearing:
                            IH-634s-21
                            IH-634s-142
                            Full Count 0105w
                            Samurai S510xx 19oz ii

                            last edited by XavrasX 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                            • XavrasX
                              Xavras
                              The Unwoven
                              @hello_4lex
                              Joined:

                              @hello_4lex Might be a Polish thing because I also had big quads and calves even before I started lifting.

                              last edited by hello_4lexH 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                              • hello_4lexH
                                hello_4lex
                                Haraki san Student
                                @Xavras
                                Joined:

                                @Xavras very possible, my fellow countryman haha. The funny thing is that my father has quite thin legs for his size— he grew up in Gdańsk, where as my mothers side of the family came from the fields near Płock

                                Currently wearing:
                                IH-634s-21
                                IH-634s-142
                                Full Count 0105w
                                Samurai S510xx 19oz ii

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                • meatmarketdenim1M
                                  meatmarketdenim1
                                  Haraki san Expert
                                  Joined:

                                  Likes few other people said, I wouldn’t have noticed anything untill you pointed it out. Think with more wear/possible warm soak will mold more and relax down in the front. I’ve had the back “diaper butt” on few of my pairs at first that slowley went away with wears. I think these look pretty good on you, sizing down would be probably uncomfortable. Can keep on trucking with them, or possibly sell on the buy/sell thread and try another fit?

                                  last edited by hello_4lexH 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                  • hello_4lexH
                                    hello_4lex
                                    Haraki san Student
                                    @meatmarketdenim1
                                    Joined:

                                    @meatmarketdenim1 based on the majority responses similar to yours, I’ll give it time and just keep putting time into these. I noticed the fit slowly change on my 14 oz 634s with 90 wears and 2 washes so far. Slightly different still as the cut seems slightly modified for the lighter weight. Hoping the bulging goes away, because besides that aspect I love everything about this pair. The weight, the fabric, the room in my legs so I can live and breathe, just the bit of excess right around the crotch, but as you mentioned, sizing down would likely destroy my jewels!

                                    Currently wearing:
                                    IH-634s-21
                                    IH-634s-142
                                    Full Count 0105w
                                    Samurai S510xx 19oz ii

                                    last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                    • worn2fadeW
                                      worn2fade
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      I’m going to drop a couple photos of how I looked in my 634’s (that I have since sold,) and my 888’s. Both the same size waist and measurements were pretty identical. 634s were 21oz, and 888’s were the UHR 23oz.

                                      I am damn near certain that the “bunching” that happens in the crotch has to do with the rise. Like I mentioned, the measurements on both were basically identical but the rises.

                                      If these jeans didn’t feel like they fit you “perfect” then sizing down may have done you some justice, but I feel like no matter the situation it’ll still be there.

                                      I know it varies with different folks and their different bodies but for me it’s very similar to you. I love the straight leg of the 634’s but I will never get them again due to that crappy low rise.

                                      IMG_2565.jpeg
                                      IMG_0107.jpeg

                                      last edited by worn2fade 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                      • Go For ChillG
                                        Go For Chill
                                        Haraki san Expert
                                        Joined:

                                        i also experience the diaper effect on my IH jeans. I figured it had to do with how stiff the fly is from having so many layers in that area of such heavy fabric. Mine have all relaxed once I got some good creases to set across this area. I usually sit with mine and work them by hand a bunch when they are new. I manually break that area in like a new glove.

                                        "Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work." -Thomas Edison

                                        last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                        • steelworkerS
                                          steelworker
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined:

                                          The diaper effect? They have to break in.

                                          Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                                          Well, I have others.

                                          last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                          • pechelmanP
                                            pechelman
                                            啓蒙家
                                            Joined:

                                            This effect will be slightly exacerbated with a looser fitting top block cuts. Weftyarns pictures show this on the 888s real well that hug his hips slightly more than the 634. The tension has created whiskers that mostly obscure the diaper/codpiece effect that's much more evident in the relaxed top block of the 634, but even then, it's still there, but to a much lesser extent on the 888.

                                            Honestly, it doesn't look too weird unless you stare, even then, it really only matters if you mind it.

                                            last edited by pechelman 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
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