Conflicted and could use some advice
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463 are really the one for me, @seawolf —the low front rise w/a high back rise is where it’s at! It really is true that it takes trial and error to find the right cut, though.
I have also embraced sacrificing fit for fabric and finish to continue wearing IH in some instances, I will admit.
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@sabergirl unfortunately I haven’t been able to try on the 888s anywhere near me. Based on the size chart it seems like they wouldn’t be as roomy as I’d like in the thighs, which the 634’s seemed to do better in for me. My issue is that my thighs still seem proportionally large compared to my waist (at least the pants-waist, my natural waist as well, but I’ve still got a bit of love handles in-between those two points)
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Without your commentary, just looking at the photos, I don't really notice the issues you described. So, may be a bit of overthinking.
They will also continue to relax and mold with more wear, keep at it.
Your body type sounds similar to mine in terms of 634 being the preferred silhouette but needing more thigh room. I believe the new relaxed straight cut is designed for us, so keep an eye out for that.
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@68degreesorless are you referring to the 1955 cut? I was intrigued by these but noticed their released are quite sparse following the 21oz and 14oz releases unfortunately. They looked promising, I was just too late to get a pair myself!
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@68degreesorless convenient that a fellow Alex has the same size in jeans as me, this sizing chart and sample looks promising. Cool to see IH developing new cuts with the community in mind. Thanks for dropping this link!
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Just my opinion, but it doesn't look unsightly to me. The higher double cuff/Tokyo cuff with the birks on looks dialed. I personally like having a higher cuff with the roomier top blocks and letting gravity do its work to avoid any bunching up top. But honestly, don't overthink it, if you feel comfortable, then rock it brotha.
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@derek111 that photo was taken just before I ended up getting them hemmed! Decided to go for a shorter inseam (all the other photos are up to date I think) since my 14 oz 634s I just opted to keep full length. I like that look for the summer, but wanted to keep these longer to keep the nasty cold Chicago air out for the cold seasons
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@louisbosco not yet, just under 40 wears, but even from when I first received the the fabric seemed incredibly soft in the 21oz denim. Do they get much softer with more washing?
Currently wearing:
IH-634s-21
IH-634s-142
Full Count 0105w
Samurai S510xx 19oz ii -
As someone who is guilty of overthinking these kinds of things, you’re overthinking it IMO. There will be the odd fit that looks absolutely perfect, but most people have weird creases in their jeans somewhere because they’re made to fit every body.
Congratulations on the weight loss, it’s not an easy thing to do.
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@NickD thank you! Unfortunate that it took a tragic moment to spark that motivation in me, but I’m still proud of the progress. I agree to some degree that I’m likely overthinking, (likely some level of dysmorphia following the weight loss) but I just want to look spiffy in my nice jeans!! Might as well keep them going and maybe once that new relaxed straight cut releases I can pick those up to see if they fit the bill better. Got a few months of cold up ahead so time to put the work into these 21 ounces
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@hello_4lex I do find that washing it helps soften the fabric. That goes for my 21/23 raw, 25 and 17slubs..
But of course, 40 wears in is still relatively new. Wearing it and washing as you go few months at a time will definitely help the fabric settle in due course..
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We may have similar body types. Me from a lifetime of skiing, hiking, and riding sportbikes. So like you, I've struggled to find cuts that accommodate muscular thighs and still have room for proper glutes. For Iron Heart, this means the 888 and the 634, and the 633 from Self Edge. I get a similar drape in the front like you do, with much of it due to both the stiff and thick nature of the fabric and due to the extra burly construction of the button fly. Even my heavy Naked & Famous Weird Guy jeans do this. Seems par for the course.
And like you, I also overthink these things. A lot. The pictures you posted look good. Keep wearing 'em in. The advice here has been great.
Sorry to hear about the tragedy. And glad to hear that you used it to lose some weight.
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The "diaper effect," as some people call it, is a common thing that I and others have experienced from a pair of 634s that's a bit too big. For what it's worth, it also happens to me with some other styles of denim, namely regular fit jeans with a high waist, which I often can't get to work no matter what size I get.
The 21oz stretches a lot, so I'd try getting a pair that feels a bit snug when you first buy them. Obviously you don't want them to be tight to the point of being uncomfortable, but I've found that for me at least, this lessens the likelihood of the bunching. If I were you, I'd size down. On the bright side, IH stuff is fairly easy to sell at a decent price, especially on here. Unfortunately I feel like having to take a loss is an occasional occupational hazard with selvedge denim, no matter what brand. With time though, you tend to get a little better at nailing it on the first go-round. That said, even a hopeless addict like myself still gets it wrong sometimes.
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@popvulture appreciate the experience based insight— unfortunately I don’t think I’d be able to size down. The rise already being under 11 inches at this size makes it tough, and obviously the thigh concern. From what I’ve gathered in my time browsing various denim, the consensus is that thighs don’t or don’t significantly stretch over the course of a pair of jean’s lifetime— luckily when I ordered these the IH team found a pair with a slightly more snug waist (33.8”) and larger thighs (13.6”). I’m looking to avoid any fits that are particularly slim on me, and even with the 634 being generally seen as a roomy straight, for my particular dimensions I feel as though they come off fairly slim (minus the bulging front). The difficulty comes in when I sit in these, as mentioned my thighs flatten and fill the legs quite easily, and my backside seems to “widen” so the seat is actually filled out when sitting. Already taken quite a few losses early on in this hobby, so I know how it goes, but unfortunately IH seems to be out of stock in any similar sizes in these at the moment
️. Hoping they release the new relaxed straight soon, those seem like they’d work a little better for me down the line. -
Ahh. I'm surprised the rise is that low. I didn't see you mention what size yours are, but I guessed roughly a 34 based on your waist and thigh. For future reference, you can email IH when you place an order and they can look for a pair with specific measurements, since there can be a good bit of variation — I do this all the time. But that aside, it does sound like maybe the 634 isn't your cut.
I wouldn't rule out the 888. As far back as I can remember, it's been mentioned as a fave for lifters due to the roomy thigh. Plus the top block is very comfortable, and it'd address rise concerns.
It does suck that IH stuff is frequently out of stock, but it's just sort of the nature of the small-batch production, the volume Japan can produce, etc.
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@hello_4lex if you had not said anything I would of just commented how great these look. I think a bit of overthinking perhaps which I am extremely guilty of myself, the higher the price tag the more we tend to be paranoid. I’m quite short and have cyclist thighs, I can wear all cuts except the 666 the top block is just to tight for my glutes, for comfort the 888 whilst keeping the slim Silhouette.
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@steelworker based on size charts neither would accommodate my thighs without oversizing the waist
