Conflicted and could use some advice
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The "diaper effect," as some people call it, is a common thing that I and others have experienced from a pair of 634s that's a bit too big. For what it's worth, it also happens to me with some other styles of denim, namely regular fit jeans with a high waist, which I often can't get to work no matter what size I get.
The 21oz stretches a lot, so I'd try getting a pair that feels a bit snug when you first buy them. Obviously you don't want them to be tight to the point of being uncomfortable, but I've found that for me at least, this lessens the likelihood of the bunching. If I were you, I'd size down. On the bright side, IH stuff is fairly easy to sell at a decent price, especially on here. Unfortunately I feel like having to take a loss is an occasional occupational hazard with selvedge denim, no matter what brand. With time though, you tend to get a little better at nailing it on the first go-round. That said, even a hopeless addict like myself still gets it wrong sometimes.
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@popvulture appreciate the experience based insight— unfortunately I don’t think I’d be able to size down. The rise already being under 11 inches at this size makes it tough, and obviously the thigh concern. From what I’ve gathered in my time browsing various denim, the consensus is that thighs don’t or don’t significantly stretch over the course of a pair of jean’s lifetime— luckily when I ordered these the IH team found a pair with a slightly more snug waist (33.8”) and larger thighs (13.6”). I’m looking to avoid any fits that are particularly slim on me, and even with the 634 being generally seen as a roomy straight, for my particular dimensions I feel as though they come off fairly slim (minus the bulging front). The difficulty comes in when I sit in these, as mentioned my thighs flatten and fill the legs quite easily, and my backside seems to “widen” so the seat is actually filled out when sitting. Already taken quite a few losses early on in this hobby, so I know how it goes, but unfortunately IH seems to be out of stock in any similar sizes in these at the moment
️. Hoping they release the new relaxed straight soon, those seem like they’d work a little better for me down the line. -
Ahh. I'm surprised the rise is that low. I didn't see you mention what size yours are, but I guessed roughly a 34 based on your waist and thigh. For future reference, you can email IH when you place an order and they can look for a pair with specific measurements, since there can be a good bit of variation — I do this all the time. But that aside, it does sound like maybe the 634 isn't your cut.
I wouldn't rule out the 888. As far back as I can remember, it's been mentioned as a fave for lifters due to the roomy thigh. Plus the top block is very comfortable, and it'd address rise concerns.
It does suck that IH stuff is frequently out of stock, but it's just sort of the nature of the small-batch production, the volume Japan can produce, etc.
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@hello_4lex if you had not said anything I would of just commented how great these look. I think a bit of overthinking perhaps which I am extremely guilty of myself, the higher the price tag the more we tend to be paranoid. I’m quite short and have cyclist thighs, I can wear all cuts except the 666 the top block is just to tight for my glutes, for comfort the 888 whilst keeping the slim Silhouette.
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@steelworker based on size charts neither would accommodate my thighs without oversizing the waist
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Lifter? You might be out of luck
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@Xavras non-lifter, just genetically large quad and calf muscles. A blessing and a curse as a descendent of Polish farming families. Arguably an “athletic” build (although I’m in no way in shape anymore, just leaner than I was the past few years when I was 60 pounds heavier).
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@hello_4lex Might be a Polish thing because I also had big quads and calves even before I started lifting.
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@Xavras very possible, my fellow countryman haha. The funny thing is that my father has quite thin legs for his size— he grew up in Gdańsk, where as my mothers side of the family came from the fields near Płock
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Likes few other people said, I wouldn’t have noticed anything untill you pointed it out. Think with more wear/possible warm soak will mold more and relax down in the front. I’ve had the back “diaper butt” on few of my pairs at first that slowley went away with wears. I think these look pretty good on you, sizing down would be probably uncomfortable. Can keep on trucking with them, or possibly sell on the buy/sell thread and try another fit?
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@meatmarketdenim1 based on the majority responses similar to yours, I’ll give it time and just keep putting time into these. I noticed the fit slowly change on my 14 oz 634s with 90 wears and 2 washes so far. Slightly different still as the cut seems slightly modified for the lighter weight. Hoping the bulging goes away, because besides that aspect I love everything about this pair. The weight, the fabric, the room in my legs so I can live and breathe, just the bit of excess right around the crotch, but as you mentioned, sizing down would likely destroy my jewels!
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I’m going to drop a couple photos of how I looked in my 634’s (that I have since sold,) and my 888’s. Both the same size waist and measurements were pretty identical. 634s were 21oz, and 888’s were the UHR 23oz.
I am damn near certain that the “bunching” that happens in the crotch has to do with the rise. Like I mentioned, the measurements on both were basically identical but the rises.
If these jeans didn’t feel like they fit you “perfect” then sizing down may have done you some justice, but I feel like no matter the situation it’ll still be there.
I know it varies with different folks and their different bodies but for me it’s very similar to you. I love the straight leg of the 634’s but I will never get them again due to that crappy low rise.
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i also experience the diaper effect on my IH jeans. I figured it had to do with how stiff the fly is from having so many layers in that area of such heavy fabric. Mine have all relaxed once I got some good creases to set across this area. I usually sit with mine and work them by hand a bunch when they are new. I manually break that area in like a new glove.
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The diaper effect? They have to break in.
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This effect will be slightly exacerbated with a looser fitting top block cuts. Weftyarns pictures show this on the 888s real well that hug his hips slightly more than the 634. The tension has created whiskers that mostly obscure the diaper/codpiece effect that's much more evident in the relaxed top block of the 634, but even then, it's still there, but to a much lesser extent on the 888.
Honestly, it doesn't look too weird unless you stare, even then, it really only matters if you mind it.
