IHSB-BB-NAT - Natural Horsehide Jacket - The Bareback

[Buckeye]

I believe this is the first run with the new Blattwerk leather?

[Slash]

Description on IH Germany still says "Italian Natural Horsehide 1,3 mm", but not sure what "Blattwerk" refers to (brand or type leather).

[Buckeye]

As I understand it, the Italian Natural Horsehide (old leather) was extremely inconsistent coming from Italy to Simmons Bilt (a large percentage of hides were not up to Simmons Bilt QC and had to be sent back). After much trial/error, Simmons Bilt and Iron Heart switched to the Blattwerk (new leather), which is more consistent and environmentally conscious.

I’m sure someone else can speak to this with more accuracy and greater depth, though.

[Mizmazzle]

The blattwerk leather is tanned differently too. It’s very soft and kind of spongy. No where near as stiff as the original Italian leather.

[Giles]

@ShopatIronHeart

[Bailey]

@Slash Blattwerk refers to a premium, vegetable-tanned aniline leather originally produced by the German tannery Heller Leder.

This leather is unique because it is tanned using an environmentally friendly process that involves olive leaf extracts, a method known as "Blattwerkgerbung" (olive leaf tanning).

This sustainable tanning process results in leather that is not only environmentally friendly but also possesses a natural, warm, and velvety feel. The leather is further treated with beeswax to enhance its durability and protect it from environmental influences.

[goosehd]

@Bailey Nice write up!! Thank you

[Slash]

@Bailey : Thx for the info !

But technicalities aside, is the batch from Germany already with this new leather ? Or still with the old one ? Just for clarification, sorry if I'm dense

[Alex]

@Iron-Heart-Germany ordered direct from Simmons Bilt on this run, so really a question for them not us, but to my eyes the photos look like the original leather

[Slash]

@Alex Thx for the answer I'll shoot them an email and report here for the rest of the forum

[Go For Chill]

@Bailey How does the beeswax affect patina development compared to raw veg tan?

[Alex]

@Go-For-Chill the worn sample was entered into Redline Rally by @denim-dawg - he wore denim over and under it, so its quite indigoed, but you can see it still ages nicely

https://www.instagram.com/p/DKdDfREoiiT/?img_index=1

[Go For Chill]

@Alex Oh, nice! I'm familiar with his piece. I didn't realize it was the new blattwerk leather.

[Shane B]

@Buckeye, @Slash, @Mizmazzle, For your information: Our Bareback stock is made of natural Italian horse leather. The leather is very soft and comfortable. Here's a picture of what it looks like in the flesh.

[Slash]

@Mizmazzle : Hey man, sorry to tag you, but I wanted to ask you...

Regarding sizing of this jacket, how would say it compares to let's say the 21oz indigo type III jacket ? (if you have it) Is it comparable ?
I've a hard time imagining how thick the fabric would be on this one, and what needs to be accounted for against the measurement charts, especially since I don't know how thick the lining is.

[Buckeye]

@Shane-B thank you! For the upcoming extractor restock, would you be able to tell us if that’s the new Blattwerk leather? Or if it’s also the Italian horsehide?

[Mizmazzle]

@Slash no worries at all dude.
I just measured my BB. I’d say the chest and shoulder are on par with how all my type 3s measure as well. That being said, my BB fits rather trim. It works perfectly over a tee shirt or lighter thermal. I can wear it with some shirts that are like 8oz and below.
UHFs can fit under it but are very restricted so I almost never wear it that way.

I can wear all my type 3s over a tee or a UHF perfectly. So the thickness of the leather makes a big difference.

The sleeves on my BB are rather short for an IH jacket. But honestly fit perfect being that I find leather jackets to look cleaner with sleeves that rest at the wrists.

Not sure if this will help or not. But I’m a solid size large in 99% of my iron heart shirts. I’m a large in 2 of my type 3s and an XL in my other 2 type 3s.

These are the measurements of my Bare Back that is a size large (though we all know measurements can vary run to run)

IH Way
Chest 22 1/8”
Shoulder 18.5”
Length 24.5”
Sleeve 24”

[Mizmazzle]

@Slash I just looked at the IH Germany size chart. It seems the size large is pretty on par with my size large. Maybe a touch more length in the shoulder, sleeve, back length.

That slight extra shoulder would be nice for layering in my case.

[Slash]

@Mizmazzle Thx man for the detailed answer !

In the meantime I had contacted IH Germany, and indeed the charts measurements would have been ideal for me, but Axel was kind enough to measure the 2 "L" they have in stock, and P2P was 60,5cm (23,8189 inches), as for the only "M" it was 58,5cm (23,0315 inches) which is way to big for me sadly

Real bummer since I had really been drooling at all the pictures you did post here on this thread; always wanted a very light brown leather jacket (all brown jacket are mostly too dark for my taste). Had also being eyeing IHSB-TGN-NAT, but the last "M" that would have fitted me is also sold
Not sure I'm going to like the new leather from the pictures I saw but never say never

I guess this is fate, I will stash the money away in the hope that something from the coming fall/winter collection blows my mind, which let's be honest, is very likely to happen

[Alex]

@Buckeye said in IHSB-BB-NAT - Natural Horsehide Jacket - The Bareback:

@Shane-B thank you! For the upcoming extractor restock

For the IHG restock, it will be the same leather as this jacket. We are sampling an extractor in the blattwerk to see how we will proceed with it over time