Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR), AKA 21/23oz Denim
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What I mean is if you don't plan on washing them to shrink them now, then don't do it ever. Because the shift would be very drastic. If they shrink 3cm then the creases will be 3cm off after a wash because of the loss in length.
I had two pairs of UHR and my first pair I washed to shrink and it got some marbling. This is why I built a small washing machine out of 5 gallon buckets. So for my next pair I can shrink them and try to mitigate any skewing and twisting in the washer.
https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=16554.msg712160#msg712160
My second pair I did two hot soaks before I even tried them on or wore them, and they haven't seen water since and never will.But please don't listen to my advice and just wear them like you planed on. I kind of regret bringing it up now because I don't want to create any FUD (fear, uncertainty, and despair)
But everyone has their own way they like to do stuff and that's okay. I just like how the denim feels when it is raw and crispy so this is why I do all the weird things I do. I also love high contrast fades from an aesthetic standpoint… But I don't necessarily like them more than a vintage fade for wearing them all the time (because it is not as loud).
This being said the official word is:
@Giles:Denim Sailor. With this particular denim/jean, if you do not soak you will have them falling apart within 2 months. You need to get rid of some of the starch and bed the constructional threads into the denim. If you do not the denim is so abrasive that the constructional threads will abrade through. I promise you, if you don't do this (and I have one very disappointed customer who thought he knew better), you too will be very disappointed….G
I always do it the Haraki way:
The following is Haraki’s advice on how to treat your Ih-634SR before you wear them:
"This denim is not processed. It will shrink and skew. I have made this pattern "shrink to fit", after washing or soaking a couple of times it will shrink to tag-size
When you get your jeans, soak them in a bath tub of cold water overnight. Turn them inside out and then wash them in a washing machine at no hotter than 30 degrees C, you do not need washing powder or detergent
Don't spin too fast and don't put them in a tumble dryer, it is far better to allow them to air dry (still inside-out) in the sun, try to smooth all wrinkles in the fabric before the jeans get too dry
After the initial soak, the leg will shrink about 2", after the wash, there will be further shrinkage of about 1". So in total you will get about 3" shrinkage. Please bear this in mind if you are hemming before washing”On subsequent washes, always wash inside out and do not spin too fast or tumble dry.
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I agree with the above statement
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Giles & Alex have very kindly found me a sample pair of 888 in the re-launched UHR denim Here are my initial thoughts on these before I put some wear into them:
These are tagged 35 waist and have been expertly hemmed to 31 inches in length.
My pre-soak raw measurements are:
Waist: 34.75
Leg: 31
FR: 12.5
RR: 17
Thigh: 13.75
Knee: 9.5
Hem 9
Weight: 1.25Kg
Denim is slightly lighter in shade than the XHS in the pics (also raw unworn)
Out if interest the XHS 888 in the pictures are 40” waist 31 leg and also weigh 1.25kg.
The detailing on these sample jeans is amazing! I’m loving the bronze buttons as seen on the original 2010 21/23 oz 634SR jeans. Selvedge fly details -check, fully lined rear pockets – check, hidden selvedge on coin pocket – check, perfect stitching - check.
I’d like to put a request in here for 100% cotton stitching on the back pocket arcs, as per the original 634SR’s?
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Soaked for two hours in super hot water straight from the hot tap at around 70 degrees. Then drip dried for two days.
Post-soak measurements are:
Waist: 34.5
Leg: 30.25
FR: 12.25
RR: 16.75
Thigh: 13.7
Knee: 9.5
Hem: 9
Weight 1.25kg
This new version of the UHR doesn’t appear to shrink anywhere near as much as the original, which is probably a good thing all in all, I remember getting nearly 2” of leg shrinkage and nearly an inch in the waist, on the old stuff which made guessing post soak sizing real hard. I also note that there is no noticeable leg skew, where as the old stuff twisted like a crazy, as you can see in the photos. I guess this is a preference thing, personally I like the raw nature of leg skew. I’m geeky enough to have weighed the old 634SR in 34 waist 30” leg at 1.25kg, I’m delighted to see the denim weight is the same between both generations.
If these fade like the original UHR denim the evo on these things is going to be something else as you can see from the two old pairs of mine here. I’ll post some updates on these as the evolve, this denim is the absolute muts nutz, epic to see it coming back in to production.
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So psyched to hear about the arcs. I think I might make these my first pair of 634s.
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@Simon great reporting and pics. very helpful for those of us following along.
Im surprised how little shrink you got on that soak too. Makes me wonder what will happen with future washes.
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Super cool that these are coming back. I figured I'd get the most classic 555s next (indigo 21 oz), but I guess those will wait and I'll get UHR 555. With how long IH jeans last and other denims like 18 oz and XHSib catching my eye, I still haven't gotten around to getting that classic 21 oz in anything but black!
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My first pair of IH were 21oz 555s. Def not a bad choice
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Super cool that these are coming back. I figured I'd get the most classic 555s next (indigo 21 oz), but I guess those will wait and I'll get UHR 555. With how long IH jeans last and other denims like 18 oz and XHSib catching my eye, I still haven't gotten around to getting that classic 21 oz in anything but black!
Definitely worth waiting for the UHR IMO. The 21oz is classic for a reason but the UHR's character and texture is unmatched, and I've found it to outlast the 21oz for durability as well. My first pair of indigo IH was the 634-UHR and they're still going strong 5+ years later with excellent fading/contrast and minimal wear/fraying.
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Super cool that these are coming back. I figured I'd get the most classic 555s next (indigo 21 oz), but I guess those will wait and I'll get UHR 555. With how long IH jeans last and other denims like 18 oz and XHSib catching my eye, I still haven't gotten around to getting that classic 21 oz in anything but black!
Definitely worth waiting for the UHR IMO. The 21oz is classic for a reason but the UHR's character and texture is unmatched, and I've found it to outlast the 21oz for durability as well. My first pair of indigo IH was the 634-UHR and they're still going strong 5+ years later with excellent fading/contrast and minimal wear/fraying.
I feel like both pair are worth owning. One would be more hardcore, and the other would be as soft and comfy as it gets. After spending many years in stuff that's heavy (oppressive) I am enjoying wearing the flagship 21oz (comfy) denim every day. I even sleep in them most days.
For a long time I have often pondered to myself what the softest denim out there is, and after trying out many other popular brands I am convinced that the IH 21oz denim is as soft as it gets (in terms of hand softness). It's just the right amount of heft and is crazy soft when it is broken in.
