Random questions to which you seek an answer

[GraemeE]

Overdying:
Is this process done after the item is completely sewn or is it done prior to assembling?

[Matt]

After.

[J-IV]

^^
You can see all the stitches dyed too and explains the sizing woes with OD items

[jordanscollected]

@Alex what, if any, are the challenges with making a heavier weight raw denim? Haraki made the 21/23, but couldn't he simply leave the XHS in "Loom state" and have a 23/25 (or whatever that number is) raw denim?

[Alex]

Haraki just doesn't like raw denim, basically. I don't think that there are any challenges, per se, other than that. He prefers to have full control over the way his products fit after shrinkage. The UHR is a international only denim, now, to my knowledge.

[pechelman]

the little leather pulls and trim on various items like hooides and bags, where do they all come from?
Off cuts from your jackets or ? Mostly curious if any of them are using the same Himeji tannery as your jackets.

[popvulture]

@Alex ahhh, ok that's interesting, and explains a lot. I love raw. I'll say it till my voice is gone — I wish the 18oz raw would come back. I know there's probably no chance but whatevs, I'll keep dreaming.

[Alex]

@pechelman I'm not sure, actually. We cut our own in Gosport for replacement from leather sourced by Simmons Bilt / Wesco, but I am not sure where Haraki gets his from

[Alex]

@popvulture yeah, we would love it too, and would love another raw too. Maybe once we fix whats broken, we can look to expand the line again

[endo]

@M800sct1 Regarding N1 waxing, at least AFAIK the Fjällräven Greenland wax can be done with an iron only, doesn't need a heat gun. I did G1000 stuff that way, which worked. Or is it different with the N1 Whipcord? Or just easier with the heat gun? Did you already do it @Nik? I want to wax my N1, just ordered a few Greenland wax bars.

[Nik]

Not yet @endo but still planning on it

[endo]

I tried a little bit on the inside, seems to be pretty easy, used a hairdryer

[Nik]

I'm waiting for heat gun because apparently they can also help tighten up loose grain on leather

[Lexrog]

Hi! My first post here… I have this shirt. Is it also a mechanic, and do you know model or name? Thanks!

[goosehd]

@Lexrog It's an old one lHSH-61

[goosehd]

@Lexrog Just a heads up that I moved your question to this topic.

[Lexrog]

Thanks!

[Matt]

That’s a beauty.

[pechelman]

@endo said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

@M800sct1 Regarding N1 waxing, at least AFAIK the Fjällräven Greenland wax can be done with an iron only, doesn't need a heat gun. I did G1000 stuff that way, which worked. Or is it different with the N1 Whipcord? Or just easier with the heat gun? Did you already do it @Nik? I want to wax my N1, just ordered a few Greenland wax bars.

to tag on to the waxing discussion (should this be its own thread?) I've waxed and rewaxed a number of Fjällräven items with their greenland wax. An iron is an easy way to do it and results in an a pretty even application but is a little bit messy for the iron and ironing surface.

A hair dryer will do the trick in place of a heat gun, but my absolute favorite way to do this is it wait for winter when you can stand in front of a fireplace. For pants, I just wear them with layer underneath and crayon on wax in the obvious areas that get wet and avoid areas that dont so they breathe a bit better. After you're "done", take them off and touchup areas that are hard to get, like behind the calves, or you want to have more waterproofing for high wear areas, like the top of your thighs.

Of all the oils/waxes, the greenland is my favorite to use mostly because of how simple it is to apply/reapply and it doesnt really smell or feel sticky or oily like Filson's or Barber's stuff. It's also the least likely to attract and hold dirt/grime as it mostly just sloughs off with dirt.

[endo]

Thanks @pechelman good tip to apply the wax when wearing the trousers, will try, won‘t really work with a jacket though.