Conflicted and could use some advice
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The "diaper effect," as some people call it, is a common thing that I and others have experienced from a pair of 634s that's a bit too big. For what it's worth, it also happens to me with some other styles of denim, namely regular fit jeans with a high waist, which I often can't get to work no matter what size I get.
The 21oz stretches a lot, so I'd try getting a pair that feels a bit snug when you first buy them. Obviously you don't want them to be tight to the point of being uncomfortable, but I've found that for me at least, this lessens the likelihood of the bunching. If I were you, I'd size down. On the bright side, IH stuff is fairly easy to sell at a decent price, especially on here. Unfortunately I feel like having to take a loss is an occasional occupational hazard with selvedge denim, no matter what brand. With time though, you tend to get a little better at nailing it on the first go-round. That said, even a hopeless addict like myself still gets it wrong sometimes.
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@popvulture appreciate the experience based insight— unfortunately I don’t think I’d be able to size down. The rise already being under 11 inches at this size makes it tough, and obviously the thigh concern. From what I’ve gathered in my time browsing various denim, the consensus is that thighs don’t or don’t significantly stretch over the course of a pair of jean’s lifetime— luckily when I ordered these the IH team found a pair with a slightly more snug waist (33.8”) and larger thighs (13.6”). I’m looking to avoid any fits that are particularly slim on me, and even with the 634 being generally seen as a roomy straight, for my particular dimensions I feel as though they come off fairly slim (minus the bulging front). The difficulty comes in when I sit in these, as mentioned my thighs flatten and fill the legs quite easily, and my backside seems to “widen” so the seat is actually filled out when sitting. Already taken quite a few losses early on in this hobby, so I know how it goes, but unfortunately IH seems to be out of stock in any similar sizes in these at the moment
️. Hoping they release the new relaxed straight soon, those seem like they’d work a little better for me down the line. -
Ahh. I'm surprised the rise is that low. I didn't see you mention what size yours are, but I guessed roughly a 34 based on your waist and thigh. For future reference, you can email IH when you place an order and they can look for a pair with specific measurements, since there can be a good bit of variation — I do this all the time. But that aside, it does sound like maybe the 634 isn't your cut.
I wouldn't rule out the 888. As far back as I can remember, it's been mentioned as a fave for lifters due to the roomy thigh. Plus the top block is very comfortable, and it'd address rise concerns.
It does suck that IH stuff is frequently out of stock, but it's just sort of the nature of the small-batch production, the volume Japan can produce, etc.
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@hello_4lex if you had not said anything I would of just commented how great these look. I think a bit of overthinking perhaps which I am extremely guilty of myself, the higher the price tag the more we tend to be paranoid. I’m quite short and have cyclist thighs, I can wear all cuts except the 666 the top block is just to tight for my glutes, for comfort the 888 whilst keeping the slim Silhouette.
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@steelworker based on size charts neither would accommodate my thighs without oversizing the waist
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Lifter? You might be out of luck
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@Xavras non-lifter, just genetically large quad and calf muscles. A blessing and a curse as a descendent of Polish farming families. Arguably an “athletic” build (although I’m in no way in shape anymore, just leaner than I was the past few years when I was 60 pounds heavier).
