Random questions to which you seek an answer
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@popvulture I have a vague memory of trying on the anniversary 634's from a few years ago and being surprised about the lockstitch rather than selvedge fly as I was used to the selvedge fly from the 888, and I feel like @Giles or @Graham told me that 634 was developed with lockstitch fly and then with the other cuts came up with the idea of the selvedge fly. And then because Haraki feels that the design of the 634 was made that way it should stay that way. So the different fly is an expression of design uniqueness of the certain cut. Could be remembering this incorrectly. Also sounds like some of your 634's do have selvedge fly?
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@popvulture said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
I recently started a pair of 634XHS, and I noticed that the fly no longer has selvedge detail on the inside. After looking elsewhere, I also saw that the rear pockets are no longer lined. Both of these details were also missing on a pair of 21OD I bought earlier this year (a pair of SBG still had them).
Given IH’s tendency to put so much stake in the overbuilt theme, I was really surprised to see these features removed. I don’t remember seeing this discussed anywhere, but I might have just missed jt. Anyway, I’m mainly just wondering — what’s the story here? My biggest hope would be that this isn’t a permanent change.
Did they ever have those features to be removed?
Selvedge fly and lined rear pockets were never a thing until I specced the original IH-666S.
When we made the original runs on 634 and 666 XHS, the base models from which we derived the XHS versions, were the IH-634S (which did not have selvedge fly or lined rear pockets) and the IH-666S (which did have selvedge fly and lined rear pockets), those characteristics carried over to the XHS versions.
All versions of 555, 666, 777 and 888 should have selvedge fly and lined rear pockets because the base models that I specced would have had them. The 634 is the exception.
I did try and get those features incorporated into every jean we made, but I guess there are some models that never got updated....
The IH-1955 has lined rear pockets but not a selvedge fly because I forgot to spec it, and then did not notice on the first sample it was missing.
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011
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Much appreciated, @Giles — that all makes perfect sense. Also cool to know a little more of the history.
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@Nik yep, that all tracks now. I wondered about the possibility of Haraki wanting to keep the 634 original spec, which would definitely be logical. To answer your question about other 634 though, yes — all the others aside from XHS and 21oz (plus their overdyed variants like regular OD and Mad Black) seem to have the lined pockets and selvedge fly.
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@Giles said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
The IH-1955 has lined rear pockets but not a selvedge fly because I forgot to spec it, and then did not notice on the first sample it was missing.
I only found out recently that the reason some of our jeans don't have flashers is because @Giles forgot to specifically request them when he did the first run, he just assumed saying 'all details the same as IH-634S except fit like sample xyz was enough (as I would have done) but apparently not. Now we are so far down the line, we are not allowed to add them retroactivley as it would 'confuse the factory'
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@Alex Something I’ve never asked but your post has intrigued me: When you guys are discussing new items with Japan, I always assumed it was in English and Serena (or predecessors) translated the details as needed.
In a case like the selvedge flys…would that have been a translational issue between IHUK and IH-Japan or between IH-Japan and the factories. Not looking for places to find fault, but curious how complex it is dealing with multiple factories, people, and language in all of the equation for goods to reach the market.
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@goosehd said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
@Alex Something I’ve never asked but your post has intrigued me: When you guys are discussing new items with Japan, I always assumed it was in English and Serena (or predecessors) translated the details as needed.
In a case like the selvedge flys…would that have been a translational issue between IHUK and IH-Japan or between IH-Japan and the factories. Not looking for places to find fault, but curious how complex it is dealing with multiple factories, people, and language in all of the equation for goods to reach the market.
if the issue was that someone forgot to put a detail on a aproduct physically, it would be a Japanese:Japanese communication issue
If the issue was that someone forgot to request a specific detail (eg flyers above) it would be a cultural translation fail, not a language one. We assume, they do not
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@Tago-Mago I am, yes. And yes, I think it makes things easier for me than they were for Dad in this sort of case
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@tody yeah this was one of these things. We wanted to call the purple ones IHSH-264-PUR (as they were the purple version of the BB ombre) but were not allowed to order them as that becasue the IHSH-130 and IHSH-126 existed already. Tom hates when I put -COLOUR at the end of things, fuck knows why - it makes it much clearer what we are talking about, so on round two of the purples, I proudly rememeberd to order the IHSH-126 and 130 instead of the 264/265-PUR. Turns out we made a red 126 and 130 too, and for some unknown reason that was the default instead of either the purple we had recently done or asking me to clarify.
Also the short inseam 777S-21 that were meant to maintain the taper at a shorter length, took fucking ages to arrive and we ended up with about 300 pairs of 777S-21 at normal inseam that were then hemmed to 32", therefore losing all the taper...
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@Alex laughing with you re: purple/red...I guess the only way to fully comprehend the cultural differences is to move down there for an extended period of time. I am in awe of what you guys have been able to do with those barriers in place and the results speak for themselves.
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@goosehd said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
@Alex laughing with you re: purple/red...I guess the only way to fully comprehend the cultural differences is to move down there for an extended period of time. I am in awe of what you guys have been able to do with those barriers in place and the results speak for themselves.
the reds are popular too, the problem was we took retailer preorders for the purples, then offered people a chance to cancel them due to our fuck up, and basically everyone cancelled the fuckers because we had just released the very similar Red/Blue/Black UHF as part of that FW, so now we have a shitload to get through
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I had some basic, conversational Japanese under my belt 5/6 years ago. I was working in the middle of nowhere in Australia with very little to do in my spare time prior to visiting Japan for three weeks, so took online classes for fun so I'd find my time there a little more accessible.
Had a fairly large amount of vocab memorised and a solid understanding of the Hiragana and Katana scripts (Kanji always eluded me though...)
Sat down opposite H at the party last month however, and all I could muster was a 'はじめまして よろしくお願いします'
If you don't use it, you lose it
“𝑁𝑒𝑣𝑒𝑟 𝑙𝑒𝑡 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑓𝑢𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑒 𝑑𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑢𝑟𝑏 𝑦𝑜𝑢. 𝑌𝑜𝑢 𝑤𝑖𝑙𝑙 𝑚𝑒𝑒𝑡 𝑖𝑡, 𝑖𝑓 𝑦𝑜𝑢 ℎ𝑎𝑣𝑒 𝑡𝑜, 𝑤𝑖𝑡ℎ 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑠𝑎𝑚𝑒 𝑤𝑒𝑎𝑝𝑜𝑛𝑠 𝑜𝑓 𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑠𝑜𝑛 𝑤ℎ𝑖𝑐ℎ 𝑡𝑜𝑑𝑎𝑦 𝑎𝑟𝑚 𝑦𝑜𝑢 𝑎𝑔𝑎𝑖𝑛𝑠𝑡 𝑡ℎ𝑒 𝑝𝑟𝑒𝑠𝑒𝑛𝑡.”
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@Tago-Mago go get one...
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@tody said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
And what was the funniest communication fuck-up in the past
Mine was doing a rerun of a t-shirt. We originally did the t in black and white. The white had sold well, but the black had sold poorly, so I just needed more white…
“Exactly the same as the previous run, just the white, but no black
Became…
“Exactly the same as the previous run, white and black”
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