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Random questions to which you seek an answer

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  • A
    Alex
    IHUK Crew
    @pechelman
    Joined: 28 Sept 2009

    @pechelman said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

    @popvulture said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

    also saw that the rear pockets are no longer lined.

    thought i recalled someone asking something like this a while ago and the answer was something like that the original / early runs of this forgot to include the lined pocket detail and the spec to the factory never got updated on repeat runs. So maybe it's not that it was missing but maybe it was never there to start? Similar to how some (or all?) of the UHR's include copper buttons because Gile's was on a copper kick at the time and then it never got updated, so that's how the factory builds them.

    Quite possibly, my memory only goes back to when I started working at IH, but the general point remains that time to time, the factory fucks up and things change. Chainstitch run off on work shirts being present then missing run to run, would be an obvious example

    last edited by 14 Oct 2024, 16:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 3
    • P
      popvulture
      見習いボス
      @pechelman
      Joined: 2 Oct 2018

      @pechelman yesterday when I was fishing around, I did see something from way back that indicated the earliest 634XHS having unlined pockets, but as far as I know they eventually became a regular feature.

      WTB
      IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
      Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

      last edited by 14 Oct 2024, 16:39 P B 2 Replies Last reply 14 Oct 2024, 16:42 Reply Quote 1
      • P
        pechelman
        啓蒙家
        @popvulture
        Joined: 24 Jan 2022

        @popvulture ah, yea, found what i had remembered as well

        https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum//post/806525
        and
        https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum//post/599677

        last edited by 14 Oct 2024, 16:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
        • P
          popvulture
          見習いボス
          Joined: 2 Oct 2018

          Haha I could be totally wrong about them becoming regular features, based both on that previous bit of info from Giles and from what I'm seeing at a few retailers. Selvedge fly and lined pockets are often listed as features, but then there will be a pic of the fly and it's flatlock instead of selvedge (Division Road and R&H, for example). This seems to be the case with some 634XHS and 21oz. Obviously you can't see whether or not the pockets are lined in the pics.

          Whatever the case, It really could be one of those things that, like Giles said, made it in for some models but has yet to happen in others. I guess the biggest lesson is that it's always good for me to double check the specs and know what I'm getting.

          WTB
          IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
          Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

          last edited by popvulture 14 Oct 2024, 18:35 N 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 04:34 Reply Quote 0
          • S
            steelworker
            見習いボス
            @Kingmob31
            Joined: 16 Apr 2014

            @Kingmob31 I believe the crew measures every restock so the size is correct.

            Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
            Well, I have others.

            last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 02:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • N
              Nik
              Raw and Unwashed
              @popvulture
              Joined: 12 Nov 2020

              @popvulture I have a vague memory of trying on the anniversary 634's from a few years ago and being surprised about the lockstitch rather than selvedge fly as I was used to the selvedge fly from the 888, and I feel like @Giles or @Graham told me that 634 was developed with lockstitch fly and then with the other cuts came up with the idea of the selvedge fly. And then because Haraki feels that the design of the 634 was made that way it should stay that way. So the different fly is an expression of design uniqueness of the certain cut. Could be remembering this incorrectly. Also sounds like some of your 634's do have selvedge fly?

              last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 04:34 P 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 11:51 Reply Quote 1
              • G
                Giles
                IHUK Crew
                @popvulture
                Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                @popvulture said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                I recently started a pair of 634XHS, and I noticed that the fly no longer has selvedge detail on the inside. After looking elsewhere, I also saw that the rear pockets are no longer lined. Both of these details were also missing on a pair of 21OD I bought earlier this year (a pair of SBG still had them).

                Given IH’s tendency to put so much stake in the overbuilt theme, I was really surprised to see these features removed. I don’t remember seeing this discussed anywhere, but I might have just missed jt. Anyway, I’m mainly just wondering — what’s the story here? My biggest hope would be that this isn’t a permanent change.

                Did they ever have those features to be removed?

                Selvedge fly and lined rear pockets were never a thing until I specced the original IH-666S.

                When we made the original runs on 634 and 666 XHS, the base models from which we derived the XHS versions, were the IH-634S (which did not have selvedge fly or lined rear pockets) and the IH-666S (which did have selvedge fly and lined rear pockets), those characteristics carried over to the XHS versions.

                All versions of 555, 666, 777 and 888 should have selvedge fly and lined rear pockets because the base models that I specced would have had them. The 634 is the exception.

                I did try and get those features incorporated into every jean we made, but I guess there are some models that never got updated....

                The IH-1955 has lined rear pockets but not a selvedge fly because I forgot to spec it, and then did not notice on the first sample it was missing.

                "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                last edited by Giles 15 Oct 2024, 05:13 A 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 11:53 Reply Quote 4
                • P
                  popvulture
                  見習いボス
                  Joined: 2 Oct 2018

                  Much appreciated, @Giles — that all makes perfect sense. Also cool to know a little more of the history.

                  WTB
                  IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
                  Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

                  last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 11:41 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • P
                    popvulture
                    見習いボス
                    @Nik
                    Joined: 2 Oct 2018

                    @Nik yep, that all tracks now. I wondered about the possibility of Haraki wanting to keep the 634 original spec, which would definitely be logical. To answer your question about other 634 though, yes — all the others aside from XHS and 21oz (plus their overdyed variants like regular OD and Mad Black) seem to have the lined pockets and selvedge fly.

                    WTB
                    IHSH-IHG-BLK XXL
                    Sugar Cane Coke Stripe SS L charcoal

                    last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 11:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • A
                      Alex
                      IHUK Crew
                      @Giles
                      Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                      @Giles said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                      The IH-1955 has lined rear pockets but not a selvedge fly because I forgot to spec it, and then did not notice on the first sample it was missing.

                      I only found out recently that the reason some of our jeans don't have flashers is because @Giles forgot to specifically request them when he did the first run, he just assumed saying 'all details the same as IH-634S except fit like sample xyz was enough (as I would have done) but apparently not. Now we are so far down the line, we are not allowed to add them retroactivley as it would 'confuse the factory'

                      last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 11:53 G 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 12:06 Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        goosehd
                        Mod Squad
                        @Alex
                        Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                        @Alex Something I’ve never asked but your post has intrigued me: When you guys are discussing new items with Japan, I always assumed it was in English and Serena (or predecessors) translated the details as needed.

                        In a case like the selvedge flys…would that have been a translational issue between IHUK and IH-Japan or between IH-Japan and the factories. Not looking for places to find fault, but curious how complex it is dealing with multiple factories, people, and language in all of the equation for goods to reach the market.

                        "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                        last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 12:06 A 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 12:38 Reply Quote 1
                        • A
                          Alex
                          IHUK Crew
                          @goosehd
                          Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                          @goosehd said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                          @Alex Something I’ve never asked but your post has intrigued me: When you guys are discussing new items with Japan, I always assumed it was in English and Serena (or predecessors) translated the details as needed.

                          In a case like the selvedge flys…would that have been a translational issue between IHUK and IH-Japan or between IH-Japan and the factories. Not looking for places to find fault, but curious how complex it is dealing with multiple factories, people, and language in all of the equation for goods to reach the market.

                          if the issue was that someone forgot to put a detail on a aproduct physically, it would be a Japanese:Japanese communication issue

                          If the issue was that someone forgot to request a specific detail (eg flyers above) it would be a cultural translation fail, not a language one. We assume, they do not

                          last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 12:38 T 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 12:51 Reply Quote 2
                          • T
                            Tago Mago
                            Mod Squad
                            @Alex
                            Joined: 16 Jan 2021

                            @Alex Am I correct in thinking that you took Japanese for a while? Are you still pursuing this and has this helped in dealing with Japan, i.e. removing the language barrier to a certain extent?

                            last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 12:51 A 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 12:53 Reply Quote 0
                            • A
                              Alex
                              IHUK Crew
                              @Tago Mago
                              Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                              @Tago-Mago I am, yes. And yes, I think it makes things easier for me than they were for Dad in this sort of case

                              last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 12:53 T 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 13:17 Reply Quote 4
                              • T
                                tody
                                啓蒙家
                                @Alex
                                Joined: 24 Feb 2021

                                @Alex And what was the funniest communication fuck-up in the past (with the best outcome)? I remember you ending up with a lot of red ombre shirts recently, that was another one of these things?

                                last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 13:17 A G 2 Replies Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 13:26 Reply Quote 1
                                • A
                                  Alex
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  @tody
                                  Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                                  @tody yeah this was one of these things. We wanted to call the purple ones IHSH-264-PUR (as they were the purple version of the BB ombre) but were not allowed to order them as that becasue the IHSH-130 and IHSH-126 existed already. Tom hates when I put -COLOUR at the end of things, fuck knows why - it makes it much clearer what we are talking about, so on round two of the purples, I proudly rememeberd to order the IHSH-126 and 130 instead of the 264/265-PUR. Turns out we made a red 126 and 130 too, and for some unknown reason that was the default instead of either the purple we had recently done or asking me to clarify.

                                  Also the short inseam 777S-21 that were meant to maintain the taper at a shorter length, took fucking ages to arrive and we ended up with about 300 pairs of 777S-21 at normal inseam that were then hemmed to 32", therefore losing all the taper...

                                  last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 13:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 4
                                  • G
                                    goosehd
                                    Mod Squad
                                    Joined: 8 Apr 2016

                                    @Alex laughing with you re: purple/red...I guess the only way to fully comprehend the cultural differences is to move down there for an extended period of time. I am in awe of what you guys have been able to do with those barriers in place and the results speak for themselves.

                                    "I don't give a shit what anyone else is doing, we will do what is best for us and our customers" - Giles P. :)

                                    last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 13:31 A 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 13:34 Reply Quote 1
                                    • A
                                      Alex
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      @goosehd
                                      Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                                      @goosehd said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:

                                      @Alex laughing with you re: purple/red...I guess the only way to fully comprehend the cultural differences is to move down there for an extended period of time. I am in awe of what you guys have been able to do with those barriers in place and the results speak for themselves.

                                      the reds are popular too, the problem was we took retailer preorders for the purples, then offered people a chance to cancel them due to our fuck up, and basically everyone cancelled the fuckers because we had just released the very similar Red/Blue/Black UHF as part of that FW, so now we have a shitload to get through 😂

                                      last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 13:34 T 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 14:08 Reply Quote 3
                                      • O
                                        Oaktavia
                                        見習いボス
                                        Joined: 12 Jun 2019

                                        this has been a great fly-on-the-forum-wall read gents

                                        IG: electricindigowizard

                                        "Possibly splitting hairs, but I consider @Oaktavia to be the beardy, dank High Magus of this denim game…" @neph93

                                        WTB: IHJ-72- XL/XXL

                                        last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 14:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                                        • T
                                          Tago Mago
                                          Mod Squad
                                          @Alex
                                          Joined: 16 Jan 2021

                                          @Alex if you're subtly trying to sell a shirt, you may have piqued my interest 😂

                                          last edited by 15 Oct 2024, 14:08 A 1 Reply Last reply 15 Oct 2024, 14:14 Reply Quote 2
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