Random questions to which you seek an answer
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Haraki just doesn't like raw denim, basically. I don't think that there are any challenges, per se, other than that. He prefers to have full control over the way his products fit after shrinkage. The UHR is a international only denim, now, to my knowledge.
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@pechelman I'm not sure, actually. We cut our own in Gosport for replacement from leather sourced by Simmons Bilt / Wesco, but I am not sure where Haraki gets his from
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@popvulture yeah, we would love it too, and would love another raw too. Maybe once we fix whats broken, we can look to expand the line again
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@M800sct1 Regarding N1 waxing, at least AFAIK the Fjällräven Greenland wax can be done with an iron only, doesn't need a heat gun. I did G1000 stuff that way, which worked. Or is it different with the N1 Whipcord? Or just easier with the heat gun? Did you already do it @Nik? I want to wax my N1, just ordered a few Greenland wax bars.
si tacuisses
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Not yet @endo but still planning on it
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I'm waiting for heat gun because apparently they can also help tighten up loose grain on leather
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Hi! My first post here… I have this shirt. Is it also a mechanic, and do you know model or name? Thanks!
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Thanks!
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@endo said in Random questions to which you seek an answer:
@M800sct1 Regarding N1 waxing, at least AFAIK the Fjällräven Greenland wax can be done with an iron only, doesn't need a heat gun. I did G1000 stuff that way, which worked. Or is it different with the N1 Whipcord? Or just easier with the heat gun? Did you already do it @Nik? I want to wax my N1, just ordered a few Greenland wax bars.
to tag on to the waxing discussion (should this be its own thread?) I've waxed and rewaxed a number of Fjällräven items with their greenland wax. An iron is an easy way to do it and results in an a pretty even application but is a little bit messy for the iron and ironing surface.
A hair dryer will do the trick in place of a heat gun, but my absolute favorite way to do this is it wait for winter when you can stand in front of a fireplace. For pants, I just wear them with layer underneath and crayon on wax in the obvious areas that get wet and avoid areas that dont so they breathe a bit better. After you're "done", take them off and touchup areas that are hard to get, like behind the calves, or you want to have more waterproofing for high wear areas, like the top of your thighs.
Of all the oils/waxes, the greenland is my favorite to use mostly because of how simple it is to apply/reapply and it doesnt really smell or feel sticky or oily like Filson's or Barber's stuff. It's also the least likely to attract and hold dirt/grime as it mostly just sloughs off with dirt.
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Thanks @pechelman good tip to apply the wax when wearing the trousers, will try, won‘t really work with a jacket though.
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@endo I rewaxed my Filson/Levi's type 3 jacket with a heat gun with a temperature regulator and it was for me the easiest solution. You can manage when the wax melt to avoid any damage.
I watched a lot of youtube videos before that to try to find the best wax and I finally went for a Filson/Barbour mixture.
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I was browsing through some older threads and noticed @Max-Power hasn't been around for some time. Anybody know if he's alright?
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@tody Last time he made a post was in July and I hope he’s ok. I find everyone’s interest in the forum ebbs and flows over time but hoping he’s still lurking around!!
@Max-Power would be great to hear from you!
