Random questions to which you seek an answer

[Mizmazzle]

Got another one for the worldly and the wise around here…

It seems to me different cuts (555) stack different (888) even though they are hemmed to the same length. I have both the above cuts and both in XHS and the 555 seems to create stacking that is much more pronounced. The 555 is much newer as well. The denim will relax more as it ages. But my 888s never stacked like this even when new.

My best guess is the straighter leg of the 555 is more stovepipe like while the 888 has a heavier taper. So the 555 stacks more??

[Matt]

The length is measured from the crotch down so different cuts will have a different crotch position (ie the same length is not necessarily the same length). Also, different denims will behave differently due to multiple reasons. Another possible explanation could be that a stronger taper will have more pronounced or sudden changes in diameter so the top could over hang the bottom as opposed to sitting in top of it.

[Mizmazzle]

So what you’re saying is going off of a consistent hem length isn’t the way to a predictable break? Better to go off of the way each pair fits and cuff then hem to where the break fits to my preference ?

[Matt]

If you want a perfectly fitted pair of pants you have to have them altered based off you wearing them. Otherwise you just gotta get what you get and don’t get upset.

[Mizmazzle]

Okie dokie. I’ve always hemmed to 32” and they’ve always been spot on. These 555s just present longer and stackier. Guess I’ll have to make a choice. To hem or to stack!

[Matt]

I never hem. I like cuffs. Personal preference or course. It’s tough if you want a chainstich hem job though. I get it.

My first pair were hemmed. I always regretted it. Sold them recently despite the sentimental value.

[Mizmazzle]

I’ve never been a cuff guy. I don’t mind a single fold 1” cuff, though. But I hate the idea of the cuff leading to a frayed hole.

[Matt]

Battle scars brother. This is the way.

[krebsy]

You might want to look at the outseam lengths as well. That would be the length from the top of the waistband all the way down to the hem. That should help factor in the different rise on different cuts. If you wear different cuts at a different point, (waist vs. hips) that would affect things too.

[T4920]

@Mizmazzle I've been a cuff guy for 15 or so years, but now I know I can get lifetime repairs on my IHs, I'm considering moving over to the hemmed side.. always viewed jeans as disposable, when the crotch blew out, or the cuff started to fall apart, I'd move onto the next pair.

Now I feel more inclined to prioritise longevity...

[Mizmazzle]

@T4920 this is exactly how I feel. Plus, I’m referring to my XHSbb which won’t be made again and is most def my favorite denim. I feel every decision that effects it must be made with the most careful of considerations haha

[popvulture]

@Matt yeah man embrace the wabi

[Mizmazzle]

@popvulture I hear what you and @matt are saying with the wabi. I’m more in the camp of wabi + great fit= holy fuck that’s badass!

Of course this is all subjective and through the eyes of the individual. I’m more trying to beat up my XHSbb while somehow simultaneously preserving their rarity.

[Matt]

With lifetime repairs you can fix whatever happens to them.

[Mizmazzle]

The very reason to buy all gear direct from Gosport.

[Jett129]

@Mizmazzle Someone can correct me if I’m wrong,but I don’t think that it matters where you purchased your IH gear in order to participate in the repair program.

[Mizmazzle]

@Jett129 ah! This is an interesting postulation. I know they don’t hem for free if you bought the jeans elsewhere. Guess I kinda figured the free repairs were the same policy.

[Matt]

It’s a good question. I guess I hadn’t considered it before.

[steelworker]

@Mizmazzle doesn't matter where you bought it

[Alex]

If it's Iron Heart, we'll repair it