Random questions to which you seek an answer
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why are the collars of the 526 vests smaller compared to the jacket collars ? ::)
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Does hickory denim, by definition, only use indigo as the dye colour, or is ‘black hickory’ a thing? Or any other colour, for that matter….[emoji848]
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@Giles
Where are they sold ? It says only 100 made , is that correct ?
You were faster -
Who is selling it, @Daniel San ? A German, or are you seeing a Japanese for sale listing on the German eBay?
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@Alex
Its a german seller on the german Ebay he is from Nürnberg -
Can you send me the details via PM please @Daniel San
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Of course , one minute please
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Question…when an IH item goes into production, does that include the creation of the fabric as well? For example, sometimes someone will ask when a restock will be, and it’s said it just went to production so could be months until ready. I’m curious what the steps of “production” are?
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It means that we have sent in an order and Japan have OK'd it. Sometimes the fabric will not be woven because they do not know how much to weave until we place an order. The factories we use get quiet (er) and busy at different times, we try to place orders for stuff for factories that we know are quiet, but it is an imperfect world, so that does not always work and a factory gets super backed up all of a sudden and we have to wait for a very long time.
Over the last few years, we have suffered massive delays in ordering indigo 21oz selvedge garments. We simply could not weave enough of the denim. We had 4 dedicated looms running all the time just for this denim, Haraki has managed to convince the mill to increase that to 6 (all their looms are busy all the time, so it meant "stealing" those looms from someone else's denim production). So now we should have relieved the problems caused by the lack of denim, but that just means the bottleneck is now in the factories which sew up the 21oz garments, and it will take time to sort that out. You don't just turn a "make more" switch, it requires massive investment in new (old and hard-to-find sewing machines), staff and infrastructure.
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Great question @Mizmazzle and a very interesting reply @Giles I think it's pretty badass that Haraki is such a heavyweight in the industry (no pun intended) he was able to get those extra looms on the 21oz.
As far as production and quality go, Giles, or anyone, I'd love your take on something: I encountered a video essay or article somewhere this year holding the position that, essentially, in the coming years (15-20 was the purposed timeframe), barring some remedy, Japanese denim production will be in dire trouble. The argument was that not enough of the younger generation is taking up the career of sewing or operating and repairing shuttle looms.
The culminating hypothesis put forward is that either Japan will have to import workers for factories which is problematic in regards to constantly training temporary foreign workers on finicky machines; or that ultimately, the up-and-coming denim makers in other parts of Asia will eventually overshadow Japan as the source of 'top-quality' denim. Does this position hold any water or is it more of an interesting thought experiment?
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Firstly, the easy answer. Yes, H is held in great esteem. I love being with him when "lesser denim world mortals" are introduced to him and see how obsequious they are
Japanese denim is already in trouble and Covid accelerated the shit (because the foreign workers were kicked out of Japan and not let back in for the best part of 2 years - and guess what, when the Japanese wanted them back, they'd found other things to do).
You are 100% correct, fewer younger Japanese people are entering the industry. But the article is wrong in saying that the use of temporary foreign workers is a future thing. It's been happening for years. One of our workshops has rows of 2 bedroom apartments in which their Burmese workers live, with communal kitchen gardens and kitchens. But all of our worships use foreign workers and have done for as long as I can remember.
I'd be interested in who authored the article, if it was a Japanese person, then take it with a dose of salt, because as a generalisation, the Japanese cups are always half empty, which makes it so much more impressive when they succeed in the face of utter catastrophe - I use to believe the doom-laden prophecies, now I politely nod my head, say soothing words of sympathy and basically ignore what I am being told. But then when I'm told that despite the awful predictions, they have managed to pull through, I am full of the most fulsome praise for their brilliance in the face of certain failure. It's a game, but it has to be done.
There are of course many challenges, and I don't mean to diminutise them, but I don't think the industry will die. It will change massively, but I think Iron Heart will be OK. Iron Heart has a very different position than any other Japanese denim brand, we have a massive non-Japanese market, we have a few westerners involved who understand more about the western market than other brands and have the ability to think outside the box (something that the Japanese culture does not promote), we have an amazingly highly regarded leader, and we have a product that people want to buy.
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Considering the enamoring of western motorcycle culture and what seems to be specifically American styling (I could be wrong), has H ever done any runs with cone or vidalia - or any other USA mill I’m not familiar with?
I have two pair of Left Field NYC that I loved until they got too slim in the leg but the cone mills denim was some of my favorite to break in.
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