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  • D
    Daniel San
    見習いボス
    Joined: 2 May 2020

    why are the collars of the 526 vests smaller compared to the jacket collars ?  ::)

    last edited by 26 Jan 2023, 08:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • N
      Nocturama
      Haraki san Prodigy
      Joined: 1 Jan 2023

      Does hickory denim, by definition, only use indigo as the dye colour, or is ‘black hickory’ a thing? Or any other colour, for that matter….[emoji848]

      #JustStopCrocs

      last edited by 26 Jan 2023, 13:26 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • D
        Daniel San
        見習いボス
        Joined: 2 May 2020

        @Giles
        @Alex
        found this on ebay classifieds Germany 🤔
        is it original?

        last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 15:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          Yes…..H makes a few (very few) each year, how on earth it got on to eBay, I don't know...

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 16:02 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • D
            Daniel San
            見習いボス
            Joined: 2 May 2020

            @Giles
            Where are they sold ? It says only 100 made , is that correct ?
            You were faster

            last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 16:04 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • A
              Alex
              IHUK Crew
              Joined: 28 Sept 2009

              Who is selling it, @Daniel San ? A German, or are you seeing a Japanese for sale listing on the German eBay?

              last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 16:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • D
                Daniel San
                見習いボス
                Joined: 2 May 2020

                @Alex
                Its a german seller on the german Ebay he is from Nürnberg

                last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 16:44 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • A
                  Alex
                  IHUK Crew
                  Joined: 28 Sept 2009

                  Can you send me the details via PM please @Daniel San

                  last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 16:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • D
                    Daniel San
                    見習いボス
                    Joined: 2 May 2020

                    Of course , one minute please 👍

                    last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 16:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • S
                      scooter
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined: 26 Dec 2015

                      Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.

                      last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 17:25 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • G
                        Giles
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                        @Daniel:

                        Where are they sold ? It says only 100 made , is that correct ?

                        They should not have been sold, they were giveaways, primarily for Japanese retailers.  No idea how many were made.

                        "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                        last edited by 5 Feb 2023, 17:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • J
                          jerkules
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined: 26 Aug 2018

                          Just noticed that, since the forum change, I’m back to being “Raw and unwashed”. My post count is over 600. Any way to get me “upgraded” to my rightful status 😂?

                          last edited by 8 Feb 2023, 06:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • D
                            Dmart
                            啓蒙家
                            Joined: 24 Mar 2021

                            @jerkules i had the same issue. You can change it in your profile. I had to post at least once that the groups have been updated.

                            last edited by 8 Feb 2023, 06:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • J
                              jerkules
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined: 26 Aug 2018

                              @Dmart thanks buddy, managed to find it. Never would’ve looked there!

                              last edited by 8 Feb 2023, 07:10 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • M
                                Mizmazzle
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 29 Jun 2021

                                Question…when an IH item goes into production, does that include the creation of the fabric as well? For example, sometimes someone will ask when a restock will be, and it’s said it just went to production so could be months until ready. I’m curious what the steps of “production” are?

                                In the easy chair with my boots on, melted whiskey in my hand. Could'na been asleep for more than three hours...time to go to work again...

                                last edited by 15 Feb 2023, 21:56 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • G
                                  Giles
                                  IHUK Crew
                                  Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                  It means that we have sent in an order and Japan have OK'd it. Sometimes the fabric will not be woven because they do not know how much to weave until we place an order. The factories we use get quiet (er) and busy at different times, we try to place orders for stuff for factories that we know are quiet, but it is an imperfect world, so that does not always work and a factory gets super backed up all of a sudden and we have to wait for a very long time.

                                  Over the last few years, we have suffered massive delays in ordering indigo 21oz selvedge garments. We simply could not weave enough of the denim. We had 4 dedicated looms running all the time just for this denim, Haraki has managed to convince the mill to increase that to 6 (all their looms are busy all the time, so it meant "stealing" those looms from someone else's denim production). So now we should have relieved the problems caused by the lack of denim, but that just means the bottleneck is now in the factories which sew up the 21oz garments, and it will take time to sort that out. You don't just turn a "make more" switch, it requires massive investment in new (old and hard-to-find sewing machines), staff and infrastructure.

                                  "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                  last edited by Giles 16 Feb 2023, 07:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                  • Salted RacerS
                                    Salted Racer
                                    Haraki san Prodigy
                                    Joined: 15 Nov 2021

                                    Great question @Mizmazzle and a very interesting reply @Giles I think it's pretty badass that Haraki is such a heavyweight in the industry (no pun intended) he was able to get those extra looms on the 21oz.

                                    As far as production and quality go, Giles, or anyone, I'd love your take on something: I encountered a video essay or article somewhere this year holding the position that, essentially, in the coming years (15-20 was the purposed timeframe), barring some remedy, Japanese denim production will be in dire trouble. The argument was that not enough of the younger generation is taking up the career of sewing or operating and repairing shuttle looms.

                                    The culminating hypothesis put forward is that either Japan will have to import workers for factories which is problematic in regards to constantly training temporary foreign workers on finicky machines; or that ultimately, the up-and-coming denim makers in other parts of Asia will eventually overshadow Japan as the source of 'top-quality' denim. Does this position hold any water or is it more of an interesting thought experiment?

                                    last edited by 16 Feb 2023, 14:16 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • G
                                      Giles
                                      IHUK Crew
                                      Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                      Firstly, the easy answer. Yes, H is held in great esteem. I love being with him when "lesser denim world mortals" are introduced to him and see how obsequious they are 🙂

                                      Japanese denim is already in trouble and Covid accelerated the shit (because the foreign workers were kicked out of Japan and not let back in for the best part of 2 years - and guess what, when the Japanese wanted them back, they'd found other things to do).

                                      You are 100% correct, fewer younger Japanese people are entering the industry. But the article is wrong in saying that the use of temporary foreign workers is a future thing. It's been happening for years. One of our workshops has rows of 2 bedroom apartments in which their Burmese workers live, with communal kitchen gardens and kitchens. But all of our worships use foreign workers and have done for as long as I can remember.

                                      I'd be interested in who authored the article, if it was a Japanese person, then take it with a dose of salt, because as a generalisation, the Japanese cups are always half empty, which makes it so much more impressive when they succeed in the face of utter catastrophe - I use to believe the doom-laden prophecies, now I politely nod my head, say soothing words of sympathy and basically ignore what I am being told. But then when I'm told that despite the awful predictions, they have managed to pull through, I am full of the most fulsome praise for their brilliance in the face of certain failure. It's a game, but it has to be done.

                                      There are of course many challenges, and I don't mean to diminutise them, but I don't think the industry will die. It will change massively, but I think Iron Heart will be OK. Iron Heart has a very different position than any other Japanese denim brand, we have a massive non-Japanese market, we have a few westerners involved who understand more about the western market than other brands and have the ability to think outside the box (something that the Japanese culture does not promote), we have an amazingly highly regarded leader, and we have a product that people want to buy.

                                      "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                      last edited by Giles 16 Feb 2023, 14:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • iammortalcombatI
                                        iammortalcombat
                                        Haraki san Prodigy
                                        Joined: 2 Jan 2022

                                        Considering the enamoring of western motorcycle culture and what seems to be specifically American styling (I could be wrong), has H ever done any runs with cone or vidalia - or any other USA mill I’m not familiar with?

                                        I have two pair of Left Field NYC that I loved until they got too slim in the leg but the cone mills denim was some of my favorite to break in.

                                        last edited by 16 Feb 2023, 15:12 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          No, and it won't happen for some time if ever. Japanese Yen is too damn weak....

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 16 Feb 2023, 15:19 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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