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Discover our "What Is?" section to learn more about denim!

Random questions to which you seek an answer

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  • N
    neph93
    見習いボス
    Joined: 18 Aug 2014

    I think @adam313 is on to something there. A narrow arm opening or shirt cut with a high p2p line would cause that. In which case you won’t see it in just one measurement as it is a case of the cut being not working on a body shape, rather than just a small chest or shoulder.

    «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
    We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

    • Dame Vera Lynn
    last edited by 18 Dec 2019, 10:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • N
      neph93
      見習いボス
      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

      @Jett129:

      I’ve never seen any denim stretch out,post washing and heat drying, faster/easier than the Pronto/IH 22 OZ. I’m talking about within an hour of putting them back on after washing. If that’s what you’re worried about. Fret not!

      I’ll carry this on in the appropriate thread when I get a minute.

      «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
      We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

      • Dame Vera Lynn
      last edited by 18 Dec 2019, 10:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • P
        Peterpiper
        Haraki san Expert
        Joined: 7 Nov 2013

        I’ve just bought a second pair of the new 666 black/ black jeans. Both have a small bit of leg twist. I know I’ve had at least one other pair of black jeans, either 555-03 or 9666z which I’ve sold that have had a small bit of leg twist.
        Is there something different in the process to indigo that lends itself to leg twist?
        In case it’s not obvious I’m not mad on leg twist..

        last edited by 19 Dec 2019, 12:55 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • G
          Giles
          IHUK Crew
          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

          All twill weaves will try to twist, whatever the colour because of the uneven tensions created in the weaving process.  Canvas and Chambray, being prime weaves, do not twist at all.

          We try to take out the twist post weave, but it is not an exact science.

          https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3907.msg199987#msg199987

          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

          last edited by 19 Dec 2019, 13:09 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • S
            setandsetting
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined: 5 Jan 2016

            Anyone know where I can get a hat similar to this RRL one in style, but perhaps in a nicer plaid or herringbone or plain or whatever pattern?

            https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-accessories-hats-scarves-gloves/fitted-earflap-cap/494188.html

            last edited by 19 Dec 2019, 21:49 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • K
              kkibbey23
              Haraki san Prodigy
              Joined: 16 Oct 2013

              @setandsetting:

              Anyone know where I can get a hat similar to this RRL one in style, but perhaps in a nicer plaid or herringbone or plain or whatever pattern?

              https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-accessories-hats-scarves-gloves/fitted-earflap-cap/494188.html

              The only place I can think of is stormy kromer. I've got one I really like

              https://www.stormykromer.com/mens-caps/

              Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

              last edited by 19 Dec 2019, 22:19 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • S
                steelworker
                見習いボス
                Joined: 16 Apr 2014

                @setandsetting:

                Anyone know where I can get a hat similar to this RRL one in style, but perhaps in a nicer plaid or herringbone or plain or whatever pattern?

                https://www.ralphlauren.com/men-accessories-hats-scarves-gloves/fitted-earflap-cap/494188.html

                @setandsetting try stormy kromer ah I see kibby beat me to it

                Those are my principles, and if you don't like them…
                Well, I have others.

                last edited by 20 Dec 2019, 04:19 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • L
                  louisbosco
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined: 21 Feb 2013

                  anyone here that has worn 666 also have experience with 555?

                  "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                  • Harvey Specter
                  last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 14:39 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • J
                    Jett129
                    見習いボス
                    Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                    The 555s are my favorite,best fitting cut. I tried a pair of 666 in the 18OZ Vintage denim,and I really like the denim, but the 666 cut just doesn’t look as good on me. Not sure this helps. I don’t have big thighs,so I don’t need the extra room.

                    last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 14:50 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • N
                      neph93
                      見習いボス
                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                      @louisbosco:

                      anyone here that has worn 666 also have experience with 555?

                      Yes indeed. What are you wondering about?

                      On the 555, the rise is higher than the 666 and the waist size is bigger in relation to tag size. The thigh is about as tight at the top as the 666, but tapers sharply into a tight knee. The knee then goes down to a much narrower hem. I like the cut a lot, but struggle with the thigh/waist ratio.

                      «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                      We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                      • Dame Vera Lynn
                      last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 15:31 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • L
                        louisbosco
                        啓蒙家
                        Joined: 21 Feb 2013

                        @neph93:

                        Yes indeed. What are you wondering about?

                        On the 555, the rise is higher than the 666 and the waist size is bigger in relation to tag size. The thigh is about as tight at the top as the 666, but tapers sharply into a tight knee. The knee then goes down to a much narrower hem. I like the cut a lot, but struggle with the thigh/waist ratio.

                        i'm sorta trying to look for another cut.

                        i fit into a 666 perfectly. loved every moment of the fit and how it looked when i wore the UHRs for the DWC. now the 634 and 888 are too big of a cut for me. tried on the 777 when i was in bangkok and i didn't really like the rise and it may be a little too skinny for my liking, which leaves me the 555 as the other option.

                        also, i feel  that i'm in between sizes right now. i'm slowly gaining a little more around the waist and so i'm not quite confident in picking sizes.

                        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                        • Harvey Specter
                        last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 16:10 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • PalmerP
                          Palmer
                          Iron Heart Deity
                          Joined: 4 Jan 2019

                          The 666 and 555 are the best fitting cuts for me. However, I have to be more selective about which models of the 555 I get because of the differences in the waist that @neph93 mentioned.

                          last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 16:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • N
                            neph93
                            見習いボス
                            Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                            @louisbosco:

                            @neph93:

                            …tried on the 777 when i was in bangkok and i didn't really like the rise and it may be a little too skinny for my liking...

                            i'm slowly gaining a little more around the waist

                            In many ways the 777 is slightly roomier than the 555, in the thigh and the knee at least. The major difference is that they taper more evenly down the entire length of the leg. So the thigh is about the same, the knee wider, but the leg below the knee much more tapered.

                            However the 777 top block is much trimmer than the 555. This may be a good thing for you if you are widening around the middle.

                            «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                            We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                            • Dame Vera Lynn
                            last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 16:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • J
                              Jett129
                              見習いボス
                              Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                              @louisbosco Something you might consider is the Pronto/Iron Heart PIH10ANT It’s probably more like a 666 cut than a 555,and the 22OZ denim is really wonderful.

                              last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 21:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • N
                                neph93
                                見習いボス
                                Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                It’s a great cut for sure. Very balanced. Top block is certainly similar to the 666 and the taper not as acute as with the 777, nor as slim as the 555.

                                «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                • Dame Vera Lynn
                                last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 22:21 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  Jett129
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                                  I think that denim is very underrated. If it was just a mere 3OZ  per square yard heavier,weighing in at 25OZ people would be loosing their minds over it.

                                  last edited by 7 Jan 2020, 23:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • L
                                    louisbosco
                                    啓蒙家
                                    Joined: 21 Feb 2013

                                    @neph93:

                                    In many ways the 777 is slightly roomier than the 555, in the thigh and the knee at least. The major difference is that they taper more evenly down the entire length of the leg. So the thigh is about the same, the knee wider, but the leg below the knee much more tapered.

                                    However the 777 top block is much trimmer than the 555. This may be a good thing for you if you are widening around the middle.

                                    haha. i'm widening around the tummy waist. didn't mind the 777 but looking back, i probably could've tried on a different size. only recently felt that my usually size is getting tighter.. wouldn't mind a slightly more taper below the knee anyway.. so i suppose it's which i feel more comfortable in around the rise of them..

                                    @Jett129:

                                    @louisbosco Something you might consider is the Pronto/Iron Heart PIH10ANT It’s probably more like a 666 cut than a 555,and the 22OZ denim is really wonderful.

                                    thanks. i'll have a look at them. i usually tend not to get collaboration models..

                                    "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                    • Harvey Specter
                                    last edited by 8 Jan 2020, 01:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • N
                                      neph93
                                      見習いボス
                                      Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                                      Question 1:

                                      Does natural indigo produce better fades than synthetic indigo?

                                      Question 2:

                                      Do the majority of jeans produced by premium denim brands use synthetic denim?

                                      I ask because I believe I read somewhere a number of years ago that most premium selvedge is produced with synthetic indigo and that aside from the environmental impact synthetic indigo has no other disadvantages when compared to natural indigo.

                                      Then I read this:

                                      https://www.instagram.com/p/B7ApgKhn49_/?igshid=he2qdu5ohgwc

                                      «Stevie Heighway on the wing!
                                      We had dreams, and songs to sing…»

                                      • Dame Vera Lynn
                                      last edited by 8 Jan 2020, 08:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • L
                                        louisbosco
                                        啓蒙家
                                        Joined: 21 Feb 2013

                                        @neph93:

                                        Question 1:

                                        Does natural indigo produce better fades than synthetic indigo?

                                        Question 2:

                                        Do the majority of jeans produced by premium denim brands use synthetic denim?

                                        1. i don't think it generally produce better fades because of natural vs synthetic. it all boils down to the wearer and the subjective aspect of what you think is "better fades" or nicer fades.

                                        2)i believe most do produce with synthetic indigo. because of the higher costs, if someone produces in natural indigo, you'd bet there will be all sorts of naming to actually inform you that it is made with natural indigo. most natural indigo products will state that in its name of the product.

                                        i know PBJ does a new models in NI, so do samurai with certain anniversary models. Visvim is another brand that use a lot of natural dyes, not just indigo..

                                        "Loyalty is a two way street. If i'm asking for it from you, then you're getting it from me."

                                        • Harvey Specter
                                        last edited by 8 Jan 2020, 09:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • G
                                          Giles
                                          IHUK Crew
                                          Joined: 22 Sept 2009

                                          This statement is a complete crock of shit.

                                          "That’s because the best selvedge is hand dipped many, many times."

                                          As for NI fading better than synthetic, I also believe that to be bollocks.  I have a pair of heavily worn NI that I would challenge anyone to know was NI when compared to my equally worn synthetic.

                                          I am certainly not a proponent for synthetic indigo and am always delighted when we do make denims out of NI, but there is some serious bullshit expounded about it, just like 1) Japan bought all the old shuttle looms from the US when the major US jeans/denim manufacturers moved away from Selvedge b) The only loopwheel machines left in the world are in one town in Japan.

                                          As an industry, we love to create these myths because it makes it sound more mysterious and thus alluring.

                                          As a parallel, fly-fishing for Bonefish is billed as one of the most difficult types of fishing there is.  This is a myth expounded by guides who charge upwards of USD500 to help you catch them.  They're really easy to catch when you know what you are doing….

                                          "OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

                                          last edited by 8 Jan 2020, 09:34 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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