IH-888-XHSib - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Ind/blk
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I have these in 36 and 888NT In 38 and I feel exactly like u said
I have a problem there (theoretical only of course as I’m not copping [emoji22]) I could go for a W33 without a soak and the measurements would be perfect. With a soak and I may be struggling with the waist. A W34 would be a little big even with a soak… What to (theoretically) do?
Heya Reuben, all theoretical, of course
but I assume that you've gone with sanforized but unwashed before. How much shrink do you end up seeing in the waist/thigh? Admittedly, I am curious for my own measurement planning, but maybe talking it out will help us help you realize your (theoretically) perfect measurements 
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I can’t help too much. I have one pair of 666-XHS but I wore them out of the bag without soaking the. Washed them after about 50 wears, in a hurry as one of my little guys puked ALL over them, and I didn’t get a chance to document the shrinkage.
What I do know is that a short time after the wash I blew the crotch. Took a while to get them repaired and by that time I’d lost some weight. They fit great now.
The published measurements of the W33 match the og measurements of my W34 OD’s almost exactly. I think I’d go the W33 and not soak. Then wear them hard and try to wash them with a spacer to retard shrinkage in the waist.
As I write this I realise this method will be a pain in the ass and that may be the excuse I need to pass on these.
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As I write this I realise this method will be a pain in the ass and that may be the excuse I need to pass on these.
But isn't that part of the reason we do this? To fill our lives with a sense of purpose?
But seriously, isn't it better for the longevity of the denim to soak them before wearing them? And, I wonder how much shrinkage you'd get with a cold soak, if any. If you never hot-wash them or hot-soak them, would a cold soak allow you to basically keep the measurements as they are?
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For reference, I have a pair of 634-XHS, size 33, that have about 18+ months of wear and 20+ machine washes. From my experience, the XHS denim shrinks about 1/2 size +/- overall. The waist shrunk about 1/2", and hips and thighs about 1/4" - 1/3". The waist stretches back to about raw size, but the hips and thighs did not. I also found that they continued to shrink continually in very small increments with subsequent washes.
Re: stretching, the waist band on any pair will stretch, depending on the nature of the denim itself and how much pressure is put on it. Waist band stretching has been discussed/mentioned at lot, but what I've not seen mentioned as a consideration is that the waist band is cut parallel to the warp, or selvedge edge, and there's more stretch in that direction. As opposed to being parallel to the weft, or perpendicular to the selvedge edge, which has less stretch. Hence the waist band will shrink and stretch more than the hips and thighs.
Attached pics are when brand new, washed once, and after 18+ months. NOTE: I also had them tapered, so the lower leg is obviously slimmer.
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Dang @mpukas that 18+ month wear looks fantastic!
I'm such an idiot, I have a pair of 634-XHS, have had them for years, and never realized that they were unwashed on order. I'm pretty sure I didn't soak those at least until a few months of wear! They've always fit great and they're not coming apart and I just ordered what would fit.
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other thoughts:
I always soak and wash my new jeans to get all the shrink out before I wear them. Also to get the starch and dust out. I'm of the opinion that's there's no benefit what-so-ever to wearing unsoaked jeans, for however long. I can see the fanatical appeal of raw denim and NEVER washing your jeans. But if you're gonna wash them at some point, then do it before you wear them. And then wash them when they need it, just be mindful of the process, and be sure to turn them inside out however the method.
@Filthy 's method of hanging the patch out of the water is admirable to maintain the leather condition. But I can't deal with that myself. I use a front loading machine, hand wash/delicate cycle, low spin. Sometimes cold, sometimes hot, depending on how much shrink I think I can get.
Unless you're dealing with a particular denim that is know to shrink a LOT, i.e. Roy's Cone Black Seed denim or Ooe's denim, which can shrink up to 2" in the waist and 4" in inseam length, then I think a waist stretcher is not necessary. The waist on my 634-XHS shrank about 1/2", and stretched back to pre-wash size. I doubt this XHSib denim will be much different, if at all.
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I'll parrot two of Giles' comments;
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re: cold vs hot soak: ask 100 people, get 101 answers.
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Soak your jeans before washing to embed the threads in the cotton.
I say just soak them in the hottest water from your tap. After 40 minutes or so it'll room temp anyway. There's not gonna be a significant difference. It's up to you if you wash them in a machine, but if inside out it's not adversely affect them.
Don't over think it or over complicate it. I tend to get too OCD with this stuff too, so I'm understand. Just know the waist will stretch back to raw size, and the hips and thighs will shrink a little and probably not stretch back.
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I wash all my IH denim in a front loader on cold and low spin and hang dry. All my pairs are 634s, XHS,II. I just buy the size that fit pre wash and haven’t noticed much change over the years. They are a bit smaller/stiffer after a wash, but back to normal after a few hours. Full disclaimer though…I have never actually measured so just going by feel.
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Oh, one other thought re: 888 vs the 634
Not accounting for minor differences in each pair measured and slight measurement inaccuracies which are to be expected, I think the 888 should have a waist measurement smaller than it is. Per size, the 888 is the same or just slightly smaller than the 634. Since the 888 is a high rise and meant to be worn higher, I think it should have a waist about 1/2" - 3/4" smaller than the corresponding 634 size. That would help keep it riding higher at the natural waist, rather than sliding down to the hips.
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Why do you guys release these beauties hours before payday? WHYYYYY?? My wallet (and marriage) don't appreciate it!
As for soaking/washing, I soak for 2-3 hours in warm water (40-45 C) with a spoonful of salt, then rinse thoroughly in cold water several times. Even with the UHRs I had very minimal shrinkage, going by feel maybe half an inch to an inch, but it stretches back out (no leg twist whatsoever unfortunately).
To care for the leather patch, I use a wee bit of mink oil before and after the soak to keep it nice and supple. Since it's veg tanned, the oils in the leather can be easily lost during washing, resulting in a hard brittle patch. Mink oil avoids this and although it changes the colour a bit I think it's worth it as it leaves it supple and almost waterproof (I am a hobbyist leathercrafter).
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I kinda miss the way these looked when they were new. Shiny and inky in the sun. Utbthe evo on them is so unique. These are epic
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I copped a 33, deciding not to size down to a 32.
My 634-XHS size 33 always felt a bit small, so I thought I needed a 34 in that cut. So, I went with a 34 when the 888-NT was released, and that's a size too big. The UHR didn't shrink nearly as much as I thought it would. I've come to conclude that my pair of 634-XHS either were on the small side of 33, or they shrunk 1/2+ size over time.
Assuming the fit is good on the 33, I'll soak and wash them initially to get the majority of the shrink out. Then I'll get them hemmed at RCFG. That ends up costing a bit more, but I didn't want to risk hemming through IHUK and not being able to return/exchange if needed. Once I start wearing them regularly, I'm not washing these as often as I have with others pairs in the past, which was every 2-6 weeks, as needed.
Very, Very excited about this denim!!!
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The fabric is jaw dropping to say the least. I’m 4 days in on my pair of 555s. They’re starting to settle and become really comfortable. I washed and soaked them warm,put them into the drier,and they tightened up but stretched right back out again. Haven’t checked the length for shrinkage yet. The buttons were the hardest ever. Enjoy!
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34 on order. New year new denim.
