That's an example of why I think it's absolutely pointless to wear a new pair of jeans for any length of time without washing them, whether unsanforized or sanforized, raw or one-wash. Washing may have some effect on the jeans' color, texture, etc. but so what? if you are gonna wash them at some, just wash them carefully before you start wearing them so you don't run into any surprises in the future.
The exception being if you plan to NEVER EVER wash them. That's gross.
I never posted any pics of my 634-XHS, size 33, from the DWC tux division. About 18+ months of wear, 20+ washes. I didn't follow the rules of posting monthly updates, so I suppose I was disqualified. I had RCFG taper them to 8.25" hem, and cut to 34" length. The did shrink quite a bit from new, and they were just too tight for me to deal with any longer. Now retired.
XHS is till my favorite IH denim, perhaps my favorite denim of all. I've stated it before, and I'll do so again: I'd love to see the 634-XHS details updated as per other 634 models, with double selvedge fly, tucked belt loops, lined rear pockets, and particularly the heaving gauge stitching that has been used in some areas. This denim deserves the extra attention to the finer details.
And just for reference, a fit when brand new:
I just read {glanced, really} through this entire thread, and I'm surprised there's no mention of shirts.
I'm not a "big" guy by any means 5'-11", 185+/- lbs. I have a harder time fitting shirts than jeans. I prefer a more fitted, tailored fit for my clothes, even for denim-wear (which is all I ever wear). I really don't like boxy, baggy, over-sized clothes anymore. Work shirts are usually too boxy in the mid-section and waist, and why I prefer westerns for the slimmer body.
What I never see mentioned in any discussions of shirts of any type (tees or L/S button front) is the proportion of shoulder-to-chest measurements. I find that most shirts' shoulders at the top of the sleeve seam are too narrow compared to the chest width at the arm pit. Extra shoulder width would do a lot for comfort and ease of motion without changing the body width.
The best fitting shirts I have are The Flat Head westerns, in XL/44. The are cut like they are tailored specifically for me. Wide in the shoulders and chest, narrow in the waist, perfect length body and sleeves. If anything, the arms are a bit tight. It seems they don't work for most western guys though. Kyle, on SuFu, used to work for TFH in Japan some years ago, and he said Masa-san develops patterns cut for his own body, which even for a small Japanese man he has a large shoulder-to-waist ratio. Then the pattern is scaled up and down for other sizes. (Correct me if I'm wrong). However TFH does it, it works for me.
The other shirts I've found that fit me well are Wranglers Retro and Western Cowboy Work cut. They're super cheap - in price and quality - but they fit me well. A L gives me more room in the shoulders and chest, but are too long in the body, so I wear a M.
I wear an XL in IH westerns, and they are not ideal for me. I LOVE the styling, fabrics, details, etc. The chest and shoulders are tight, too wide in waist width, the body sometimes too long. Not including the collar button, the top 2 snaps pull outwards and the fabric looks distorted. Dean DelRay mention this too in his podcast interview w/ Giles. I need an XXL in the chest and shoulders, and a L everywhere else. I don't have an IH Work shirt, because the measurements look too wide in the waist and opening for me.
First world problems, I know, LOL! 
For sale: Warehouse 800XX size: 36
Slim straight fit. Memphis cotton unsanforized selvedge denim is woven on Toyoda G3 shuttle looms. Period-correct vintage details, hidden back pocket rivets, deerskin leather patch. Factory hemmed, length not altered.
Worn a few times. I washed them using my usual method of inside-out warm wash on hand wash cycle, tumble dry until damp, then hang dry. Washed this way probably three times. The run really small for tagged size and are far too small and tight for me. There's no shrink left, but will stretch 1.-0" 1.5" in the waist with a few wears.
Some signs of minor fading at points of high wear such as belt loops and top of waist band. Really nice denim. Stitching on the left front pocket has come loose.
Waist straight across: 16.5"
Waist aligned: 17.0"
Front rise: 12.0"
Back rise: 16.5"
Thigh at crotch: 13.5"
Thigh 2" down: 12.5"
Knee 14" down: 9.375"
Hem: 8.75"
Inseam: 31.75"
$185 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS. International pays actual shipping cost. VENMO. Returns not accepted.
For Sale: IHV-02 IND 12oz Wabash/Duck Work Vest - Black/Black size: XL
Never worn, never washed or soaked. Like brand new condition.
Chest: 21.25"
Shoulders across: 15.75"
Arm opening: 11.0"
Front length: 25.0"
Back Length: 21.0"
Opening: 21.125"
$275 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS. International pays actual shipping cost. VENMO. Returns not accepted.
For Sale: IHV-02 IND 12oz Wabash/Duck Work Vest - Indigo/Navy size: XL
Never worn, never washed or soaked. Like brand new condition.
Chest: 21.25"
Shoulders across: 15.75"
Arm opening: 11.0"
Front length: 25.0"
Back Length: 21.0"
Opening: 21.125"
$275 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS. International pays actual shipping cost. VENMO. Returns not accepted.
For Sale: IHSH-13-BLK 10oz Selvedge Chambray Single Yoke Western Shirt - Black, Size XL
Only worn a few times, probably no more than 4-5. It's too small for me. Always has been, even when I was much leaner than I currently am. Like brand-new condition. No rips, tears, stains, scuffs, wear marks, etc. Freshly laundered and pressed for your pleasure. One of my favorite IH pieces. When I'm old and shrunken, I'll regret not keeping it.
shoulder across: 18.5"
length: 29.25"
pit-to-pit: 23.5"
waist: 21.5"
opening: 22.25"
sleeve length: 25.5"
cuff: 4.25"
$275 $245 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS. International pays actual shipping cost. VENMO. Returns not accepted.
For Sale: IHSH-13-BLU 10oz Selvedge Chambray Single Yoke Western Shirt - Blue, Size XL
Only worn a few times, probably no more than 4-5. It's too small for me. Always has been, even when I was much leaner than I currently am. Like brand-new condition. No rips, tears, stains, scuffs, wear marks, etc. Freshly laundered and pressed for your pleasure. One of my favorite IH pieces. When I'm old and shrunken, I'll regret not keeping it.
shoulder across: 18.75"
length: 30.25"
pit-to-pit: 23.25"
waist: 21.625"
opening: 22.625"
sleeve length: 26.25"
cuff: 4.25"
$275 $245 shipped USPS Priority Mail CONUS. International pays actual shipping cost. VENMO. Returns not accepted.
I live in the mountains of CO, in the Vail area. We definitely get cold temps here in the winter, but not as cold as where @neph93 is. I'll only be wearing this N1 when it's really cold and I'll have some type of heavy flannel or denim shirt underneath. I don't wear multiple layers like heavy sweaters or cardigans. Worst case scenario is I'd wear an extra insulated layer on those scarce occasions when it's a high of -10F.
I did speak with the IH crew prior to purchasing, and was advised that given my stats an XL would suite me. Hoping to hear back from them here, or I'll contact them directly.
Thx fella's. mpp
Gents,
I just copped this N1 BLK size XL f/ the outlet. Been looking for a proper winter coat for literally years. This should do nicely.
Opinions on fit? I have an IHxSE type III denim jacket and the blanket lined riders jacket both in XXL. I wear IH westerns in XL. In fit pics I have on an XL UHF under the N1. I think this is on the edge of being too large, but acceptable. I could have gone w/ and L, but wasn't available at the time.
Cheers!
