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IH-888-XHSib - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Ind/blk

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  • M
    mpukas
    Raw and Unwashed
    Joined: 17 Jan 2014

    For reference, I have a pair of 634-XHS, size 33, that have about 18+ months of wear and 20+ machine washes. From my experience, the XHS denim shrinks about 1/2 size +/- overall. The waist shrunk about 1/2", and hips and thighs about 1/4" - 1/3". The waist stretches back to about raw size, but the hips and thighs did not. I also found that they continued to shrink continually in very small increments with subsequent washes.

    Re: stretching, the waist band on any pair will stretch, depending on the nature of the denim itself and how much pressure is put on it. Waist band stretching has been discussed/mentioned at lot, but what I've not seen mentioned as a consideration is that the waist band is cut parallel to the warp, or selvedge edge, and there's more stretch in that direction. As opposed to being parallel to the weft, or perpendicular to the selvedge edge, which has less stretch. Hence the waist band will shrink and stretch more than the hips and thighs.

    Attached pics are when brand new, washed once, and after 18+ months. NOTE: I also had them tapered, so the lower leg is obviously slimmer.



    last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
    • P
      Paul9221
      啓蒙家
      Joined: 19 Apr 2011

      Dang @mpukas that 18+ month wear looks fantastic!

      I'm such an idiot, I have a pair of 634-XHS, have had them for years, and never realized that they were unwashed on order.  I'm pretty sure I didn't soak those at least until a few months of wear!  They've always fit great and they're not coming apart and I just ordered what would fit.

      Blanket-line all the things!!!

      last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • M
        mpukas
        Raw and Unwashed
        Joined: 17 Jan 2014

        other thoughts:

        I always soak and wash my new jeans to get all the shrink out before I wear them. Also to get the starch and dust out. I'm of the opinion that's there's no benefit what-so-ever to wearing unsoaked jeans, for however long. I can see the fanatical appeal of raw denim and NEVER washing your jeans. But if you're gonna wash them at some point, then do it before you wear them. And then wash them when they need it, just be mindful of the process, and be sure to turn them inside out however the method.

        @Filthy 's method of hanging the patch out of the water is admirable to maintain the leather condition. But I can't deal with that myself. I use a front loading machine, hand wash/delicate cycle, low spin. Sometimes cold, sometimes hot, depending on how much shrink I think I can get.

        Unless you're dealing with a particular denim that is know to shrink a LOT, i.e. Roy's Cone Black Seed denim or Ooe's denim, which can shrink up to 2" in the waist and 4" in inseam length, then I think a waist stretcher is not necessary. The waist on my 634-XHS shrank about 1/2", and stretched back to pre-wash size. I doubt this XHSib denim will be much different, if at all.

        last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • P
          Paul9221
          啓蒙家
          Joined: 19 Apr 2011

          What about the hot vs cold soak on unwashed denim?  I never machine wash these things so I'm thinking that maybe a cold soak would keep them from shrinking too much, protect the denim (vs not soaking at all), and make it easier to guess the post-soak dimensions.

          Blanket-line all the things!!!

          last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • M
            mpukas
            Raw and Unwashed
            Joined: 17 Jan 2014

            I'll parrot two of Giles' comments;

            • re: cold vs hot soak: ask 100 people, get 101 answers.

            • Soak your jeans before washing to embed the threads in the cotton.

            I say just soak them in the hottest water from your tap. After 40 minutes or so it'll room temp anyway. There's not gonna be a significant difference. It's up to you if you wash them in a machine, but if inside out it's not adversely affect them.

            Don't over think it or over complicate it. I tend to get too OCD with this stuff too, so I'm understand. Just know the waist will stretch back to raw size, and the hips and thighs will shrink a little and probably not stretch back.

            last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • S
              Sage954
              Iron Heart Deity
              Joined: 1 Apr 2012

              I wash all my IH denim in a front loader on cold and low spin and hang dry.  All my pairs are 634s, XHS,II. I just buy the size that fit pre wash and haven’t noticed much change over the years. They are a bit smaller/stiffer after a wash, but back to normal after a few hours. Full disclaimer though…I have never actually measured so just going by feel.

              last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • M
                mpukas
                Raw and Unwashed
                Joined: 17 Jan 2014

                Oh, one other thought re: 888 vs the 634  😃

                Not accounting for minor differences in each pair measured and slight measurement inaccuracies which are to be expected, I think the 888 should have a waist measurement smaller than it is. Per size, the 888 is the same or just slightly smaller than the 634. Since the 888 is a high rise and meant to be worn higher, I think it should have a waist about 1/2" - 3/4" smaller than the corresponding 634 size. That would help keep it riding higher at the natural waist, rather than sliding down to the hips.

                last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • P
                  Paul9221
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                  Thanks guys, I appreciate having OCD people sort out my OCD issues 😃

                  Blanket-line all the things!!!

                  last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 23:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • S
                    Sam
                    Joined: 21 May 2015

                    @Matty123:

                    I soaked and I got a decent amount of shrink. I recommend a soak for sure. @Sam will
                    You guys be posting shrink measurements?

                    There wasn't a plan to. It should behave like the usual 25oz.

                    Insta - @braveinthefaceoflasers

                    last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 09:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • K
                      Kerestel
                      Joined: 16 Nov 2018

                      Why do you guys release these beauties hours before payday? WHYYYYY?? My wallet (and marriage) don't appreciate it!  😃 😢

                      As for soaking/washing, I soak for 2-3 hours in warm water (40-45 C) with a spoonful of salt, then rinse thoroughly in cold water several times. Even with the UHRs I had very minimal shrinkage, going by feel maybe half an inch to an inch, but it stretches back out (no leg twist whatsoever unfortunately).

                      To care for the leather patch, I use a wee bit of mink oil before and after the soak to keep it nice and supple. Since it's veg tanned, the oils in the leather can be easily lost during washing, resulting in a hard brittle patch. Mink oil avoids this and although it changes the colour a bit I think it's worth it as it leaves it supple and almost waterproof (I am a hobbyist leathercrafter).

                      last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 11:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • S
                        Steve
                        IHUK Crew
                        Joined: 28 Mar 2018

                        Adam wears tag 32

                        insta
                        @saturdaytypefever
                        @steve_ironheart

                        last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 11:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • M
                          Matty123
                          Raw and Unwashed
                          Joined: 4 Apr 2017

                          I kinda miss the way these looked when they were new. Shiny and inky in the sun.  Utbthe evo on them is so unique. These are epic

                          Maybe so. Maybe not

                          last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 11:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • K
                            Kerestel
                            Joined: 16 Nov 2018

                            @Matty123:

                            I kinda miss the way these looked when they were new. Shiny and inky in the sun.  Utbthe evo on them is so unique. These are epic

                            You're not making this easier on my wallet Matty. I feel like I need this pair!  😃

                            last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 11:52 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • S
                              Steve
                              IHUK Crew
                              Joined: 28 Mar 2018

                              NOW LIVE

                              insta
                              @saturdaytypefever
                              @steve_ironheart

                              last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 16:00 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • M
                                mpukas
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined: 17 Jan 2014

                                I copped a 33, deciding not to size down to a 32.

                                My 634-XHS size 33 always felt a bit small, so I thought I needed a 34 in that cut. So, I went with a 34 when the 888-NT was released, and that's a size too big. The UHR didn't shrink nearly as much as I thought it would. I've come to conclude that my pair of 634-XHS either were on the small side of 33, or they shrunk 1/2+ size over time.

                                Assuming the fit is good on the 33, I'll soak and wash them initially to get the majority of the shrink out. Then I'll get them hemmed at RCFG. That ends up costing a bit more, but I didn't want to risk hemming through IHUK and not being able to return/exchange if needed. Once I start wearing them regularly, I'm not washing these as often as I have with others pairs in the past, which was every 2-6 weeks, as needed.

                                Very, Very excited about this denim!!!  😉 😉 😉

                                last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 16:42 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • J
                                  Jett129
                                  見習いボス
                                  Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                                  The fabric is jaw dropping to say the least. I’m 4 days in on my pair of 555s. They’re starting to settle and become really comfortable. I washed and soaked them warm,put them into the drier,and they tightened up but stretched right back out again.  Haven’t checked the length for shrinkage yet. The buttons were the hardest ever. Enjoy!

                                  last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 16:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • T
                                    tvenuto
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined: 15 Sept 2016

                                    34 on order. New year new denim.

                                    last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 17:33 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • F
                                      Filthy2123ozjunkie
                                      見習いボスー
                                      Joined: 21 Jan 2013

                                      I'm really excited for these too. Thanks a lot for everybody's help IHUK. ❤

                                      last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 17:43 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • T
                                        T.J.
                                        Joined: 10 Apr 2015

                                        @Jett129:

                                        The buttons were the hardest ever.

                                        ^^

                                        I used a wrench to stretch them out 🙂

                                        last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 18:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • J
                                          Jett129
                                          見習いボス
                                          Joined: 17 Aug 2011

                                          Me too,used needle nose pliers and it was still rough.

                                          last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 20:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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