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    Iron Heart Fall/Winter 2025 Collection Preview - Now Live

    IH-888-XHSib - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Ind/blk

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    • M
      mpukas
      Raw and Unwashed
      Joined:

      For reference, I have a pair of 634-XHS, size 33, that have about 18+ months of wear and 20+ machine washes. From my experience, the XHS denim shrinks about 1/2 size +/- overall. The waist shrunk about 1/2", and hips and thighs about 1/4" - 1/3". The waist stretches back to about raw size, but the hips and thighs did not. I also found that they continued to shrink continually in very small increments with subsequent washes.

      Re: stretching, the waist band on any pair will stretch, depending on the nature of the denim itself and how much pressure is put on it. Waist band stretching has been discussed/mentioned at lot, but what I've not seen mentioned as a consideration is that the waist band is cut parallel to the warp, or selvedge edge, and there's more stretch in that direction. As opposed to being parallel to the weft, or perpendicular to the selvedge edge, which has less stretch. Hence the waist band will shrink and stretch more than the hips and thighs.

      Attached pics are when brand new, washed once, and after 18+ months. NOTE: I also had them tapered, so the lower leg is obviously slimmer.



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      • Paul9221P
        Paul9221
        啓蒙家
        Joined:

        Dang @mpukas that 18+ month wear looks fantastic!

        I'm such an idiot, I have a pair of 634-XHS, have had them for years, and never realized that they were unwashed on order.  I'm pretty sure I didn't soak those at least until a few months of wear!  They've always fit great and they're not coming apart and I just ordered what would fit.

        Blanket-line all the things!!!

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        • M
          mpukas
          Raw and Unwashed
          Joined:

          other thoughts:

          I always soak and wash my new jeans to get all the shrink out before I wear them. Also to get the starch and dust out. I'm of the opinion that's there's no benefit what-so-ever to wearing unsoaked jeans, for however long. I can see the fanatical appeal of raw denim and NEVER washing your jeans. But if you're gonna wash them at some point, then do it before you wear them. And then wash them when they need it, just be mindful of the process, and be sure to turn them inside out however the method.

          @Filthy 's method of hanging the patch out of the water is admirable to maintain the leather condition. But I can't deal with that myself. I use a front loading machine, hand wash/delicate cycle, low spin. Sometimes cold, sometimes hot, depending on how much shrink I think I can get.

          Unless you're dealing with a particular denim that is know to shrink a LOT, i.e. Roy's Cone Black Seed denim or Ooe's denim, which can shrink up to 2" in the waist and 4" in inseam length, then I think a waist stretcher is not necessary. The waist on my 634-XHS shrank about 1/2", and stretched back to pre-wash size. I doubt this XHSib denim will be much different, if at all.

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          • Paul9221P
            Paul9221
            啓蒙家
            Joined:

            What about the hot vs cold soak on unwashed denim?  I never machine wash these things so I'm thinking that maybe a cold soak would keep them from shrinking too much, protect the denim (vs not soaking at all), and make it easier to guess the post-soak dimensions.

            Blanket-line all the things!!!

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            • M
              mpukas
              Raw and Unwashed
              Joined:

              I'll parrot two of Giles' comments;

              • re: cold vs hot soak: ask 100 people, get 101 answers.

              • Soak your jeans before washing to embed the threads in the cotton.

              I say just soak them in the hottest water from your tap. After 40 minutes or so it'll room temp anyway. There's not gonna be a significant difference. It's up to you if you wash them in a machine, but if inside out it's not adversely affect them.

              Don't over think it or over complicate it. I tend to get too OCD with this stuff too, so I'm understand. Just know the waist will stretch back to raw size, and the hips and thighs will shrink a little and probably not stretch back.

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              • S
                Sage954
                Iron Heart Deity
                Joined:

                I wash all my IH denim in a front loader on cold and low spin and hang dry.  All my pairs are 634s, XHS,II. I just buy the size that fit pre wash and haven’t noticed much change over the years. They are a bit smaller/stiffer after a wash, but back to normal after a few hours. Full disclaimer though…I have never actually measured so just going by feel.

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                • M
                  mpukas
                  Raw and Unwashed
                  Joined:

                  Oh, one other thought re: 888 vs the 634  😃

                  Not accounting for minor differences in each pair measured and slight measurement inaccuracies which are to be expected, I think the 888 should have a waist measurement smaller than it is. Per size, the 888 is the same or just slightly smaller than the 634. Since the 888 is a high rise and meant to be worn higher, I think it should have a waist about 1/2" - 3/4" smaller than the corresponding 634 size. That would help keep it riding higher at the natural waist, rather than sliding down to the hips.

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                  • Paul9221P
                    Paul9221
                    啓蒙家
                    Joined:

                    Thanks guys, I appreciate having OCD people sort out my OCD issues 😃

                    Blanket-line all the things!!!

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                    • SamS
                      Sam
                      Joined:

                      @Matty123:

                      I soaked and I got a decent amount of shrink. I recommend a soak for sure. @Sam will
                      You guys be posting shrink measurements?

                      There wasn't a plan to. It should behave like the usual 25oz.

                      Insta - @braveinthefaceoflasers

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                      • K
                        Kerestel
                        Joined:

                        Why do you guys release these beauties hours before payday? WHYYYYY?? My wallet (and marriage) don't appreciate it!  😃 😢

                        As for soaking/washing, I soak for 2-3 hours in warm water (40-45 C) with a spoonful of salt, then rinse thoroughly in cold water several times. Even with the UHRs I had very minimal shrinkage, going by feel maybe half an inch to an inch, but it stretches back out (no leg twist whatsoever unfortunately).

                        To care for the leather patch, I use a wee bit of mink oil before and after the soak to keep it nice and supple. Since it's veg tanned, the oils in the leather can be easily lost during washing, resulting in a hard brittle patch. Mink oil avoids this and although it changes the colour a bit I think it's worth it as it leaves it supple and almost waterproof (I am a hobbyist leathercrafter).

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                        • SteveS
                          Steve
                          IHUK Crew
                          Joined:

                          Adam wears tag 32

                          insta
                          @saturdaytypefever
                          @steve_ironheart

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                          • Matty123M
                            Matty123
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined:

                            I kinda miss the way these looked when they were new. Shiny and inky in the sun.  Utbthe evo on them is so unique. These are epic

                            Maybe so. Maybe not

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                            • K
                              Kerestel
                              Joined:

                              @Matty123:

                              I kinda miss the way these looked when they were new. Shiny and inky in the sun.  Utbthe evo on them is so unique. These are epic

                              You're not making this easier on my wallet Matty. I feel like I need this pair!  😃

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                              • SteveS
                                Steve
                                IHUK Crew
                                Joined:

                                NOW LIVE

                                insta
                                @saturdaytypefever
                                @steve_ironheart

                                last edited by 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • M
                                  mpukas
                                  Raw and Unwashed
                                  Joined:

                                  I copped a 33, deciding not to size down to a 32.

                                  My 634-XHS size 33 always felt a bit small, so I thought I needed a 34 in that cut. So, I went with a 34 when the 888-NT was released, and that's a size too big. The UHR didn't shrink nearly as much as I thought it would. I've come to conclude that my pair of 634-XHS either were on the small side of 33, or they shrunk 1/2+ size over time.

                                  Assuming the fit is good on the 33, I'll soak and wash them initially to get the majority of the shrink out. Then I'll get them hemmed at RCFG. That ends up costing a bit more, but I didn't want to risk hemming through IHUK and not being able to return/exchange if needed. Once I start wearing them regularly, I'm not washing these as often as I have with others pairs in the past, which was every 2-6 weeks, as needed.

                                  Very, Very excited about this denim!!!  😉 😉 😉

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                                  • J
                                    Jett129
                                    見習いボス
                                    Joined:

                                    The fabric is jaw dropping to say the least. I’m 4 days in on my pair of 555s. They’re starting to settle and become really comfortable. I washed and soaked them warm,put them into the drier,and they tightened up but stretched right back out again.  Haven’t checked the length for shrinkage yet. The buttons were the hardest ever. Enjoy!

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                                    • tvenutoT
                                      tvenuto
                                      Raw and Unwashed
                                      Joined:

                                      34 on order. New year new denim.

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                                      • Filthy2123ozjunkieF
                                        Filthy2123ozjunkie
                                        見習いボスー
                                        Joined:

                                        I'm really excited for these too. Thanks a lot for everybody's help IHUK. ❤

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                                        • T.J.T
                                          T.J.
                                          Joined:

                                          @Jett129:

                                          The buttons were the hardest ever.

                                          ^^

                                          I used a wrench to stretch them out 🙂

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                                          • J
                                            Jett129
                                            見習いボス
                                            Joined:

                                            Me too,used needle nose pliers and it was still rough.

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