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IH-888-XHSib - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Ind/blk

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  • F
    Filthy2123ozjunkie
    見習いボスー
    Joined: 21 Jan 2013

    @Paul9221:

    How long do you usually soak using your method, Filthy?

    until the water goes from hot to cold about 45 minutes to an hour. Also I edited the above post so please carefully read the quotation.

    last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 19:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
    • P
      Paul9221
      啓蒙家
      Joined: 19 Apr 2011

      I saw the edit, thanks!

      I've had bad experience getting waist shrinkage on other brand denim before.  Like barely any shrinkage.  I'm going to risk it for these.

      Blanket-line all the things!!!

      last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 19:38 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • F
        Filthy2123ozjunkie
        見習いボスー
        Joined: 21 Jan 2013

        @Paul9221:

        I saw the edit, thanks!

        I've had bad experience getting waist shrinkage on other brand denim before.  Like barely any shrinkage.  I'm going to risk it for these.

        This is something I have never really gotten about shrinking. It always stretches back out and then some. Like for example my 888-nt were a 38.5 pre-soak shrank to a 38. But after wearing them for a time they stretched to a 39.

        Trying to soak to make the wasist fit never works. Like I even put my one pair of 634 XHS on a hot 2 hour wash and then put them in the dryer. Then were good for about a day then the waist was back to normal again.

        My advice is to aim for a tighter fit and the payoff will be worth it in the end.

        Edit: maybe the more knowledgeable forum members can chime in?

        I've got to get a taxi to the airport. See ya.

        last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 19:46 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
        • P
          Paul9221
          啓蒙家
          Joined: 19 Apr 2011

          Thanks for all of the tips, Filthy!  Have a good flight!

          I'm looking for a post-soak waist/thigh of about 31.5-32/12.3.  If I go with the tag 32 and can get 0.5 - 1 inch off on the waist and 0.5 inch off on the thigh (post-soak), I'll be extremely happy.  But if that thigh stays at 12.8, they won't look good 😕

          Any advice would be very welcomed!

          Blanket-line all the things!!!

          last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 20:48 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • F
            Filthy2123ozjunkie
            見習いボスー
            Joined: 21 Jan 2013

            Then you would want to go with a tagged size 31 imho. It will be an arduous break in. But the fit will pay off in the end. Unless you think that you'll be gaining any weight in the near future. Then I'd go with a 32.

            last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 20:53 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
            • P
              Paul9221
              啓蒙家
              Joined: 19 Apr 2011

              @Filthy:

              Then you would want to go with a tagged size 31 imho. It will be an arduous break in. But the fit will pay off in the end. Unless you think that you'll be gaining any weight in the near future. Then I'd go with a 32.

              Hey, you're still around! 🙂

              Thanks again for all of the tips/advice, man!  I'm just thinking, dang, if I get the 31 and the waist drops from 31.3 to like waist down to 30.25" after a soak, I am absolutely not going to be able to button these.  If I take the 32 and get the waist down to a 31.25, I can maybe button that.

              If I were to get the 32, which at current measurement is just a little too big, shrinking it down to where it's a little too tight, and then stretching it out might make more sense, but I'm just not certain on that amount of shrink.  I'd be a little disappointed if I go with the 32 and the waist goes down from like 32.4 to 32 and the thigh just drops down from 12.8 to 12.5, but at least those dimensions, while a little looser than I'd like, would be wearable.

              Blanket-line all the things!!!

              last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 21:32 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • N
                neph93
                見習いボス
                Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                Paul your best bet us to take starting measurements as rough final measurements. Wherever they start is about where they’ll end after shrinking and stretching. In the case of the XHS they may go a little further.

                Btw, not ignoring your pm. Been a busy one though 😉

                “Some of those that work forces
                Are the same that burn crosses”

                • Virginia Woolf
                last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 21:36 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                • P
                  Paul9221
                  啓蒙家
                  Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                  @neph93:

                  @Matty123:

                  I have these in 36 and 888NT In 38 and I feel exactly like u said

                  I have a problem there (theoretical only of course as I’m not copping [emoji22]) I could go for a W33 without a soak and the measurements would be perfect. With a soak and I may be struggling with the waist. A W34 would be a little big even with a soak… What to (theoretically) do?

                  Heya Reuben, all theoretical, of course 😃 but I assume that you've gone with sanforized but unwashed before.  How much shrink do you end up seeing in the waist/thigh?  Admittedly, I am curious for my own measurement planning, but maybe talking it out will help us help you realize your (theoretically) perfect measurements 🙂

                  Blanket-line all the things!!!

                  last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 21:45 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • N
                    neph93
                    見習いボス
                    Joined: 18 Aug 2014

                    I can’t help too much. I have one pair of 666-XHS but I wore them out of the bag without soaking the. Washed them after about 50 wears, in a hurry as one of my little guys puked ALL over them, and I didn’t get a chance to document the shrinkage.

                    What I do know is that a short time after the wash I blew the crotch. Took a while to get them repaired and by that time I’d lost some weight. They fit great now.

                    The published measurements of the W33 match the og measurements of my W34 OD’s almost exactly. I think I’d go the W33 and not soak. Then wear them hard and try to wash them with a spacer to retard shrinkage in the waist.

                    As I write this I realise this method will be a pain in the ass and that may be the excuse I need to pass on these.

                    “Some of those that work forces
                    Are the same that burn crosses”

                    • Virginia Woolf
                    last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 21:54 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • P
                      Paul9221
                      啓蒙家
                      Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                      @neph93:

                      As I write this I realise this method will be a pain in the ass and that may be the excuse I need to pass on these.

                      But isn't that part of the reason we do this?  To fill our lives with a sense of purpose?  😃

                      But seriously, isn't it better for the longevity of the denim to soak them before wearing them?  And, I wonder how much shrinkage you'd get with a cold soak, if any.  If you never hot-wash them or hot-soak them, would a cold soak allow you to basically keep the measurements as they are?

                      Blanket-line all the things!!!

                      last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:07 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • M
                        mpukas
                        Raw and Unwashed
                        Joined: 17 Jan 2014

                        For reference, I have a pair of 634-XHS, size 33, that have about 18+ months of wear and 20+ machine washes. From my experience, the XHS denim shrinks about 1/2 size +/- overall. The waist shrunk about 1/2", and hips and thighs about 1/4" - 1/3". The waist stretches back to about raw size, but the hips and thighs did not. I also found that they continued to shrink continually in very small increments with subsequent washes.

                        Re: stretching, the waist band on any pair will stretch, depending on the nature of the denim itself and how much pressure is put on it. Waist band stretching has been discussed/mentioned at lot, but what I've not seen mentioned as a consideration is that the waist band is cut parallel to the warp, or selvedge edge, and there's more stretch in that direction. As opposed to being parallel to the weft, or perpendicular to the selvedge edge, which has less stretch. Hence the waist band will shrink and stretch more than the hips and thighs.

                        Attached pics are when brand new, washed once, and after 18+ months. NOTE: I also had them tapered, so the lower leg is obviously slimmer.



                        last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:14 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • P
                          Paul9221
                          啓蒙家
                          Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                          Dang @mpukas that 18+ month wear looks fantastic!

                          I'm such an idiot, I have a pair of 634-XHS, have had them for years, and never realized that they were unwashed on order.  I'm pretty sure I didn't soak those at least until a few months of wear!  They've always fit great and they're not coming apart and I just ordered what would fit.

                          Blanket-line all the things!!!

                          last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:24 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • M
                            mpukas
                            Raw and Unwashed
                            Joined: 17 Jan 2014

                            other thoughts:

                            I always soak and wash my new jeans to get all the shrink out before I wear them. Also to get the starch and dust out. I'm of the opinion that's there's no benefit what-so-ever to wearing unsoaked jeans, for however long. I can see the fanatical appeal of raw denim and NEVER washing your jeans. But if you're gonna wash them at some point, then do it before you wear them. And then wash them when they need it, just be mindful of the process, and be sure to turn them inside out however the method.

                            @Filthy 's method of hanging the patch out of the water is admirable to maintain the leather condition. But I can't deal with that myself. I use a front loading machine, hand wash/delicate cycle, low spin. Sometimes cold, sometimes hot, depending on how much shrink I think I can get.

                            Unless you're dealing with a particular denim that is know to shrink a LOT, i.e. Roy's Cone Black Seed denim or Ooe's denim, which can shrink up to 2" in the waist and 4" in inseam length, then I think a waist stretcher is not necessary. The waist on my 634-XHS shrank about 1/2", and stretched back to pre-wash size. I doubt this XHSib denim will be much different, if at all.

                            last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:30 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • P
                              Paul9221
                              啓蒙家
                              Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                              What about the hot vs cold soak on unwashed denim?  I never machine wash these things so I'm thinking that maybe a cold soak would keep them from shrinking too much, protect the denim (vs not soaking at all), and make it easier to guess the post-soak dimensions.

                              Blanket-line all the things!!!

                              last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:37 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • M
                                mpukas
                                Raw and Unwashed
                                Joined: 17 Jan 2014

                                I'll parrot two of Giles' comments;

                                • re: cold vs hot soak: ask 100 people, get 101 answers.

                                • Soak your jeans before washing to embed the threads in the cotton.

                                I say just soak them in the hottest water from your tap. After 40 minutes or so it'll room temp anyway. There's not gonna be a significant difference. It's up to you if you wash them in a machine, but if inside out it's not adversely affect them.

                                Don't over think it or over complicate it. I tend to get too OCD with this stuff too, so I'm understand. Just know the waist will stretch back to raw size, and the hips and thighs will shrink a little and probably not stretch back.

                                last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:51 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • S
                                  Sage954
                                  Iron Heart Deity
                                  Joined: 1 Apr 2012

                                  I wash all my IH denim in a front loader on cold and low spin and hang dry.  All my pairs are 634s, XHS,II. I just buy the size that fit pre wash and haven’t noticed much change over the years. They are a bit smaller/stiffer after a wash, but back to normal after a few hours. Full disclaimer though…I have never actually measured so just going by feel.

                                  last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • M
                                    mpukas
                                    Raw and Unwashed
                                    Joined: 17 Jan 2014

                                    Oh, one other thought re: 888 vs the 634  😃

                                    Not accounting for minor differences in each pair measured and slight measurement inaccuracies which are to be expected, I think the 888 should have a waist measurement smaller than it is. Per size, the 888 is the same or just slightly smaller than the 634. Since the 888 is a high rise and meant to be worn higher, I think it should have a waist about 1/2" - 3/4" smaller than the corresponding 634 size. That would help keep it riding higher at the natural waist, rather than sliding down to the hips.

                                    last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 22:57 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • P
                                      Paul9221
                                      啓蒙家
                                      Joined: 19 Apr 2011

                                      Thanks guys, I appreciate having OCD people sort out my OCD issues 😃

                                      Blanket-line all the things!!!

                                      last edited by 29 Jan 2019, 23:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • S
                                        Sam
                                        Joined: 21 May 2015

                                        @Matty123:

                                        I soaked and I got a decent amount of shrink. I recommend a soak for sure. @Sam will
                                        You guys be posting shrink measurements?

                                        There wasn't a plan to. It should behave like the usual 25oz.

                                        Insta - @braveinthefaceoflasers

                                        last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 09:03 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                        • K
                                          Kerestel
                                          Joined: 16 Nov 2018

                                          Why do you guys release these beauties hours before payday? WHYYYYY?? My wallet (and marriage) don't appreciate it!  😃 😢

                                          As for soaking/washing, I soak for 2-3 hours in warm water (40-45 C) with a spoonful of salt, then rinse thoroughly in cold water several times. Even with the UHRs I had very minimal shrinkage, going by feel maybe half an inch to an inch, but it stretches back out (no leg twist whatsoever unfortunately).

                                          To care for the leather patch, I use a wee bit of mink oil before and after the soak to keep it nice and supple. Since it's veg tanned, the oils in the leather can be easily lost during washing, resulting in a hard brittle patch. Mink oil avoids this and although it changes the colour a bit I think it's worth it as it leaves it supple and almost waterproof (I am a hobbyist leathercrafter).

                                          last edited by 30 Jan 2019, 11:18 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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