There's no Such Thing as a Stupid Question

[Bill C]

I noticed that some of my selvedge jeans have an “overlocked” seam on the inside leg and some have a “double-felled”(?) seam. The double-felled seam is arguably more attractive when turned up, but are there other reasons for using the overlocked seam instead?

thanks - Bill

[Bill C]

@Bill:

I noticed that some of my selvedge jeans have an “overlocked” seam on the inside leg and some have a “double-felled”(?) seam. The double-felled seam is arguably more attractive when turned up, but are there other reasons for using the overlocked seam instead?

thanks - Bill

@Alex or @Giles …?

thanks - Bill

[Giles]

@Bill C The gospel according to Haraki:

There are 3 types of sewing for inner seam:

• interlock (overlock and chain stitch at one time)
• interlock, fold one side then lock stitch over the interlock (which IH does)
• felled seam

Actually, a felled seam is one of the easiest ways if the operator gets used to it. But the crotch area will be also felled and it becomes very thick. It requires techniques and power. Also, the curve of the inner line for the front panel and the back panel has to be identical. If not, it’s hard to fell evenly and steady. If the trousers are not a work pants silhouette, it’s difficult.

Brands like Lee are good at work pants, a brand like Wrangler, their denim is broken twill so is soft, they tend to use felled seam for the inner seam. I guess it’s also related to what type of sewing machines they have.

At IH, we have lots of models (silhouettes) and heavy denim, lockstitch over interlock is suitable.

This is what I guess.

The truth might be, that Lee and Wrangler  probably didn’t want to imitate Levi’s which started ahead.

HARAKI

[neph93]

^ Love it. This kind of thing from the Boss makes me go starry eyed and soft in the centre.

[Giles]

100% agree, it's golden…..

[Bill C]

@Giles:

100% agree, it's golden…..

Thanks @Giles - that’s super informative - much appreciated!  …. and sincere thanks for Haraki-san’s input on this

Bill

[Kasi]

Nice…

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Oaktavia]

Does anyone use a little bit of bleach when washing denim? Like after desired fade marks are present, to whiten up the white areas? I have read about this somewhere online but can't seem to remember where.

I have one IHSH that is faded nice and vintagey but the white area look a little dull and could use some brightening up, but only if it would not ruin the integrity of the fabric.

[neph93]

Bleach is always going to damage cotton a little, but small amounts shouldn’t matter.

To be on the safe side you can add Vanish to the wash, or use washing detergent specifically for whites, instead of raw bleach.

[Oaktavia]

Oh okay cool that make sense. Thanks Reuben!

[Jett129]

@Oaktavia This should help you as well,and is color safe.

[Nik]

I put a small amount of bleach into the washing machine to lighten a pair of 21oz OD, and they are light blue now and the fabric is still soft and solid

[Oaktavia]

Thanks for the answers gents!

[Daniel San]

Very interesting
How much is a little bit or a small amount?

[Nik]

50ml at first, then did it again with 100ml, and was happy so stopped there.

[Matt]

Am I losing it or is anyone else missing the product threads.  I’m sure it’s just down for maintenance or something but I didn’t notice anyone else talking about it today so I figured I’d ask.  Sorry if I missed the notice elsewhere.

[Jett129]

I can see them.

[Matt]

This is all I have…

[Matt]

Never mind.  I see now that it’s minimized.  I guess this was the right thread after all. 

[Paul9221]

Matt's testing the title of this thread [emoji14]